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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched but can't find anything specifically related to my question

what all IS needed to run a 954 engine in a 929 properly

and what all is only extra performace stuff, like throttle bodies
 

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I've searched but can't find anything specifically related to my question

what all IS needed to run a 954 engine in a 929 properly

and what all is only extra performace stuff, like throttle bodies
Nothing is needed for it to run properly except for the engine. It'll run just fine with the 929 ECU, throttle bodies and radiator. You will need the 954 rotor, stator and cover though.

The differences are 2mm bigger throttle bodies in the same manifolds, slightly bigger cams and 1mm bigger pistons. Despite the bigger bores the 954 engine is lighter all round from the cases to the pistons. I'd have to check but I think it's a kg or more lighter.

Installing the complete 954 engine, electrics, throttle bodies and rear wheel should be good for about 10hp more than the 929. If you figure the 2.5% increase in capacity is good for 2.5% more power then the remaining 6-7hp comes from the cams, throttle bodies, injectors, ECU and the lighter engine internals and rear wheel.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Nothing is needed for it to run properly except for the engine. It'll run just fine with the 929 ECU, throttle bodies and radiator. You will need the 954 rotor, stator and cover though.

The differences are 2mm bigger throttle bodies in the same manifolds, slightly bigger cams and 1mm bigger pistons. Despite the bigger bores the 954 engine is lighter all round from the cases to the pistons. I'd have to check but I think it's a kg or more lighter.

Installing the complete 954 engine, electrics, throttle bodies and rear wheel should be good for about 10hp more than the 929. If you figure the 2.5% increase in capacity is good for 2.5% more power then the remaining 6-7hp comes from the cams, throttle bodies, injectors, ECU and the lighter engine internals and rear wheel.
im glad that your online everytime i am:rotfl:

thinking of picking up a 954 engine to drop into my 929 due to the lower case being broken on mine. 3rd rod bearing spun...is this a common issue? all motors seem to have this problem

but about how much ballpark price would it cost to replace the 3rd rod?
 

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im glad that your online everytime i am:rotfl:

thinking of picking up a 954 engine to drop into my 929 due to the lower case being broken on mine. 3rd rod bearing spun...is this a common issue? all motors seem to have this problem

but about how much ballpark price would it cost to replace the 3rd rod?
I'm always online :)
I don't know that it's a common problem exactly.
You need to realise that generally the rod bearing hasn't failed because it's bad itself. Usually there are lots of other parts all battling to stay together and as soon as the weakest part finally lets go the engine stops. Fixing the part that actually failed is not the way to repair the engine since that simply moves the stress that caused the initial failure onto the next weakest link and you actually have a weaker engine than before you "repaired" it.
You will need to go right through it and replace anything that's worn due to the lack of lubrication that caused the failure. Depending on how long it's been bad that could be as simple as new bearings to a new crank or even to requiring a new head if the cam journals are chewed out.
Until you actually get inside it there's no way of knowing what it might cost.
Personally, I tend to figure on spending a grand anytime I have to open an engine up but it's just a wild figure plucked from the air - if I don't want to spend a grand just yet it's probably best not to open up the engine yet. Most times a couple of hundred should cover whatever is broken but you need to be aware that it can climb rapidly once you're in there :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm always online :)
I don't know that it's a common problem exactly.
You need to realise that generally the rod bearing hasn't failed because it's bad itself. Usually there are lots of other parts all battling to stay together and as soon as the weakest part finally lets go the engine stops. Fixing the part that actually failed is not the way to repair the engine since that simply moves the stress that caused the initial failure onto the next weakest link and you actually have a weaker engine than before you "repaired" it.
You will need to go right through it and replace anything that's worn due to the lack of lubrication that caused the failure. Depending on how long it's been bad that could be as simple as new bearings to a new crank or even to requiring a new head if the cam journals are chewed out.
Until you actually get inside it there's no way of knowing what it might cost.
Personally, I tend to figure on spending a grand anytime I have to open an engine up but it's just a wild figure plucked from the air - if I don't want to spend a grand just yet it's probably best not to open up the engine yet. Most times a couple of hundred should cover whatever is broken but you need to be aware that it can climb rapidly once you're in there :)
hmm thanks, ill keep that in mind
 

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A 954 motor will lineup with the motor mounts on a 929? I thought they were slighly different?
Nope, exactly the same dimensions.
 

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complete build is the way to go if the motor has once lost it.
i thought you got the motor already from those local junk yards?
 

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do you plan on doing the bench work yourself? just dong a straight up engine swap is really straight forward if you have a hoist or a come-a-long that you can mount to some rafters in your garage. even if you have never done any thing like this, you and two friends should be able to pull off an engine swap in one afternoon.

Getting into some benchwork is another story. i wouldn't even attempt it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
do you plan on doing the bench work yourself? just dong a straight up engine swap is really straight forward if you have a hoist or a come-a-long that you can mount to some rafters in your garage. even if you have never done any thing like this, you and two friends should be able to pull off an engine swap in one afternoon.

Getting into some benchwork is another story. i wouldn't even attempt it.

my dad has a come a long, but a friend of mine has a shop who dropped the engine and will replace it for only $50 :rolleyes:
 

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You shouldn't need any kind of hoist as the 929/954 engine is pretty light.
 

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I used a come a long to lift the frame ( with the rear swing arm and wheel ) and a standard rolling floor jack to support the original engine as I dropped it. After that, all I had to do is put my new engine on the floor jack, roll it into place and make the proper height adjustments until I could afix the front engine hanger. Blade racer: is your technique to bolt the frame onto a stationary frame and build out from there?
 

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I used a come a long to lift the frame ( with the rear swing arm and wheel ) and a standard rolling floor jack to support the original engine as I dropped it. After that, all I had to do is put my new engine on the floor jack, roll it into place and make the proper height adjustments until I could afix the front engine hanger. Blade racer: is your technique to bolt the frame onto a stationary frame and build out from there?
Sit the engine on a box, bolt the swingarm and wheel to the engine and then drop the frame on top.
 

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i'll have to give that a try..
seems like your method would cost me less beer.:)
I like it because it doesn't require any effort at all :)
Once the frame is on the engine, slide the forks and front wheel in, lift the front and kick the crate out.
 
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