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any suggestions on mods for the 954. i already have full akro racing system k&n filter power commander with custom map. makin 139/72 right now would like to hit 150. any suggestions on how to get there??
 

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any suggestions on mods for the 954. i already have full akro racing system k&n filter power commander with custom map. makin 139/72 right now would like to hit 150. any suggestions on how to get there??

Start by replacing the K&N with an OEM filter.
Then cams would be a good bet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
any specific cams in mind that would be good for everyday use? also what about lighter pistons? i have heard of guys changing these out before but cant find a website to buy them from. i also dont want to lose my everyday rider.
 

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any specific cams in mind that would be good for everyday use? also what about lighter pistons? i have heard of guys changing these out before but cant find a website to buy them from. i also dont want to lose my everyday rider.

Email the various cam manufacturers and ask them what grinds they have.
Or you can have yours ground to suit your specific needs.
The 954 pistons are already very light so I can't see much to be gained from a complete engine tear down just for that.
How much mileage is on the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the help ill try getting some cam info. when i get my results ill be sure to post
 

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ok did some more research and this is the setup im looking at:

port and polish head
webcams racing camshafts
wiseco high comp pistons (13.2)Complete CK kit includes piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, gaskets and sleeve
Camshaft Profiles:
VALVE
LIFT
DURATION
DURATION
@ 0.050"
GRIND
NUMBER

PART
NUMBERS
OPTIONS
QTY
PURCHASE


.360/.360
266°/270°
244°/246°
297/116
Regrind
57-420
$427.00




Performance profile to increase overall performance. Cam has a reduced base circle. Use F4 factory shims for adjustment. Requires High Compression Piston, and Exhaust System. Price Per Set (2).
Hardweld
N/A




New Cam
N/A




Other Products:
Cam Gear, Adjustable
CG-H08
$65.00








is there anything else i need besides good tuning? what kind of gains would i be looking at?
 

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ok did some more research and this is the setup im looking at:

port and polish head
webcams racing camshafts
wiseco high comp pistons (13.2)Complete CK kit includes piston, rings, wrist pin, circlips, gaskets and sleeve
Camshaft Profiles:

VALVE
LIFT



DURATION


DURATION
@ 0.050"



GRIND
NUMBER



PART
NUMBERS



OPTIONS


QTY


PURCHASE





.360/.360
266°/270°
244°/246°
297/116

Regrind
57-420
$427.00





Performance profile to increase overall performance. Cam has a reduced base circle. Use F4 factory shims for adjustment. Requires High Compression Piston, and Exhaust System. Price Per Set (2).
Hardweld
N/A





New Cam
N/A





Other Products:
Cam Gear, Adjustable

CG-H08
$65.00









is there anything else i need besides good tuning? what kind of gains would i be looking at?

What are the sleeves you list with the piston kit?
I would think that'd get you pretty close to the 150hp you're chasing. The high-compression pistons and head work won't get you much - especially considering the cost of stripping the engine to install them. I'd suggest just dropping the cams in and see how you like those before pulling the head or stripping the engine.
 

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Don't forget to add the cost of sixteen new shims for the cams.
About $100 for the set.
 

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Start by replacing the K&N with an OEM filter.
Then cams would be a good bet.
What is wrong with the K&N filters? This is the 2nd time in 2 days I have heard about this. (Other guy was talking about getting dirt in carbs with them) Seems like a sure bet that the higher flow would give an increase in performance.
 

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I would love to know what gains you get after changing just the cams. if its significant, then i will do the same.
 

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And then you'd need to determine if that particular K&N filter is the same as it was over six years ago when those tests were done. Also, those tests were done with 108 octane race fuel, PAIR system removed, and the stock ECU handling the air/fuel mixture; no PCIII was present (which seems odd since many/most people would add a PCIII and have a custom map done if they ran a full Hindle exhaust or bolt-on, high octane fuel, and a K&N filter). Lastly, the DJ 250 is a full eddy current (load) dyno. Most people cannot look at those results and make an apples-to-apples comparison to our own bikes for many reasons.

I'm making an appointment to have my 954 tuned next month. We have a local shop with a brand new 224xLC and a tech that is trained/certified. Should be fun to watch the process and see what comes of it in terms of performance feel and any change in the linearity of the powerband.
 

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And then you'd need to determine if that particular K&N filter is the same as it was over six years ago when those tests were done. Also, those tests were done with 108 octane race fuel, PAIR system removed, and the stock ECU handling the air/fuel mixture; no PCIII was present (which seems odd since many/most people would add a PCIII and have a custom map done if they ran a full Hindle exhaust or bolt-on, high octane fuel, and a K&N filter). Lastly, the DJ 250 is a full eddy current (load) dyno. Most people cannot look at those results and make an apples-to-apples comparison to our own bikes for many reasons.

I'm making an appointment to have my 954 tuned next month. We have a local shop with a brand new 224xLC and a tech that is trained/certified. Should be fun to watch the process and see what comes of it in terms of performance feel and any change in the linearity of the powerband.

Any chance of doing some runs with a new OEM filter as well?
 

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Absolutely. I have a nearly-new K&N filter and a nearly-new OEM filter, and both will be tested. I'm also going to be swapping out an Erion bolt-on (that came with the bike) and a new Mivv Suono that I just installed last week.
 

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I would love to know what gains you get after changing just the cams. if its significant, then i will do the same.

with extensive experience with cages, cams can make a huge difference, but generally due to the relative inefficiency that cars have. bikes tend to be very close to 100%, while sometimes exceeding 100% (this is in regards to volumetric efficiency)

biggest things to remember are, the lift (more lift means more air, but have to account for quench)

lobe seperation angle, this adjusts how far apart valve events are, and can lead to copious amounts of valve overlap and exhaust scavenging.

duration (how wide the lobe is, how long a valve remains open), more duration tends to be better for higher RPM motors as typically things are moving so quickly there is a pressure drop due to air restriction.



But to really see the full potential of a cam, you must have its complements. head work being the biggest of the two. Have the heads flowed and make sure they are fairly even. Smooth intake runners isn't always the best thing, some turbulence is needed for better fuel atomization. but too much turbulence causes heat and restrictions. Port for larger valves. The cam can handle all the air you want to throw at it, but it can't use what it doesn't have ya know?

Hope this helps
 
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