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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all. Rode the bike to work and back. Gets ridden twice a week to work and I ride my r1 now the rest of the time. Runs great. Starts great. Parked it.. 2 days later, no fuel pump priming. Swapped around all the relays. They all click when put In that position. I tried moving around and reconnecting ground blocks and disconnecting my pc3 since both those things have affected fuel pump priming before. The pc3 got water in the plug before. No water this time. No difference. Fuses all good. I saw a post about servo causing this issue. I tried disconnecting the servo and the plug was giving me a real hard time. Might have to take the tank off to get it. I also attached another battery to the bike. I haven't checked it its not getting spark either but I have a feeling that's the case cus it just had not sounded like anything but starter motor. Not a single glug lug lug. Just got to work... hoping you give me ideas to Try for tonight.

Ps there was ONE symptom that was odd but could be unrelated. Since I've bought the bike it had had a weird hesitation at warm idle. It goes: gluglugluglug_luggluglu... and it happens maybe once or twice in an hours time of commuting. The last day I rode it, it did it 3 times in a row right off the back of each other which it had never done before. It did it a couple more times also. I had run the bike almost bone dry and filled it up st the station and it did it right after leaving the station.

i think if I cant isolate anything I might end up buying a replacement harness and fuel pump and relays and call it a day lol. But im broooke right now. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey so...
Can someone tell me exactly how they would jump start the fuel pump? If I disconnect the plug going to the fuel pump, and connect the green (-) and brown (+) to battery, should it not start? Or should it be green (-) brown/black (+) to battery? Should the battery be under load? What if I tried green/brown and then green/brown.black both (in that order) with the battery not under load (bike is off... just trying to get the fuel pump to power) and nothing happened? Did I fry the fuel pump or do I know for certain the pump is bad? Or do I need to re-do it somehow? Thanks

Will try to figure out the diodes in the fuse box and ignition today... please understand I am a buffoon with a voltmeter and electronics and would be very appreciative if you could tell me in your words how to test the fusebox diode and ignition zener diode. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK SO... volts for my ignition show 11.73v on red side before the diode and 7.9v on the pink side. Its showing this with just the key and stop/start switch on, not trying to crank over. Is this too low? Or does the math show right? Volts show higher than 12v on just the battery... is something causing it to be under volted? r/r?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It seems to me like I really should be able to unplug the fuel pump and connect brown to positive and green to negative on the battery and it should start. And I get nada.

I also checked kickstand sensor, all is good there. Have not checked the one behind the instrument cluster. But to me the main oddities I am getting is I cannot jump start the fuel pump (unless I am doing something wrong) and the voltage at the pink wire to the diode in the ignition is reading about a volt too low. Tried another battery and the same. Seems to me if anything was wrong with the diode it would read higher, not lower, than normal. And it is dropping around the amount it should. I thought it should read 9v though.

New fuel pump guys? guys? ................................guys? lol
 

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Brown is the positive and green is the negative. If you unhook the pump at the black connector and apply 12v to those wires the fuel pump should turn on. You can check the bike side of the connector with a meter and you should get around 12v with the ignition in the on position. Does the bike turn over? If nothing happens when you try to start it I would take apart the emergency kill switch and inspect/clean the contacts to be sure it is functioning as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brown/black is the positive and green is the negative. If you unhook the pump at the black connector and apply 12v to those wires the fuel pump should turn on. You can check the bike side of the connector with a meter and you should get around 12v with the ignition in the on position. Does the bike turn over? If nothing happens when you try to start it I would take apart the emergency kill switch and inspect/clean the contacts to be sure it is functioning as it should.
Hey 954Kevin. Thanks for the reply. It cranks. Starter motor is just fine. I do have headlights and turn signals, also. Once I had a bad ground cause no fuel prime but I also had turn signals not work. Everything works but the fuel pump. Although, I have not pulled a plug to test for spark yet. I have taken apart and cleaned the kill switch, and jumped it without the switch. Also when it is switched on, I do get the clicking from the relay. So I have tried both green+brown and green+brown/black to battery directly from the pump and it has done nothing. I unplugged the fuel pump and tried both combinations. Guess its the pump then, yea?

What is weird to me is that when I bought the bike, it came with receipts of a shop putting in a new fuel pump, maybe 2-3 years ago. I noticed no fuel filter on the install receipt, just pump. Tank has never looked super rusty to me. Idk. Made me wonder if the filter was full of gunk and somehow this re-fucked a new pump.
 

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Might check this video out, I read a couple comments on the video with other people having the same pump short issue. Maybe the same thing, but for sure, the pump should turn with 12 to the brown and green wires. If not, then its something wrong with the pump.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea I saw that video. Made me wonder, also about a short on the inside. Wait though lol. Just to be clear... its brown/black+green right? Not just brown+green? Cus last post just said brown+green. Am I supposed to do both brown wires together to power?
 

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My mistake, the solid brown wire is positive and the green wire is negative. Those are the only two wires needed to test function.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Gotcha. OK. I tried that combination the most. Looks like I am opening the tank in my future. Youre the man, thank you, I just needed someone to confirm for me the method of jumping the pump because I am very weary and uneasy with electrical stuff and this is a problem with 1,000 causes. I want to be sure. Pump definitely won't start. Its the pump or the wires on the inside like that video. Im happy to get my search much more narrow, thank you.

Edit: ordered a QFS Quantum kit with pump/filter/strainer/gasket on amazon, free return if I don't need it. Shows up tomorrow. Probably check stuff out Wednesday, next day off.
 

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Hey all. Rode the bike to work and back. Gets ridden twice a week to work and I ride my r1 now the rest of the time. Runs great. Starts great. Parked it.. 2 days later, no fuel pump priming. Swapped around all the relays. They all click when put In that position. I tried moving around and reconnecting ground blocks and disconnecting my pc3 since both those things have affected fuel pump priming before. The pc3 got water in the plug before. No water this time. No difference. Fuses all good. I saw a post about servo causing this issue. I tried disconnecting the servo and the plug was giving me a real hard time. Might have to take the tank off to get it. I also attached another battery to the bike. I haven't checked it its not getting spark either but I have a feeling that's the case cus it just had not sounded like anything but starter motor. Not a single glug lug lug. Just got to work... hoping you give me ideas to Try for tonight. Ps there was ONE symptom that was odd but could be unrelated. Since I've bought the bike it had had a weird hesitation at warm idle. It goes: gluglugluglug_luggluglu... and it happens maybe once or twice in an hours time of commuting. The last day I rode it, it did it 3 times in a row right off the back of each other which it had never done before. It did it a couple more times also. I had run the bike almost bone dry and filled it up st the station and it did it right after leaving the station. i think if I cant isolate anything I might end up buying a replacement harness and fuel pump and relays and call it a day lol. But im broooke right now. Thank you
Sounds like you may need dry gas. I hadrain water or bad fuel in mine. I always keep dry gas in my saddle bags now
 

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Hey all. Rode the bike to work and back. Gets ridden twice a week to work and I ride my r1 now the rest of the time. Runs great. Starts great. Parked it.. 2 days later, no fuel pump priming. Swapped around all the relays. They all click when put In that position. I tried moving around and reconnecting ground blocks and disconnecting my pc3 since both those things have affected fuel pump priming before. The pc3 got water in the plug before. No water this time. No difference. Fuses all good. I saw a post about servo causing this issue. I tried disconnecting the servo and the plug was giving me a real hard time. Might have to take the tank off to get it. I also attached another battery to the bike. I haven't checked it its not getting spark either but I have a feeling that's the case cus it just had not sounded like anything but starter motor. Not a single glug lug lug. Just got to work... hoping you give me ideas to Try for tonight.

Ps there was ONE symptom that was odd but could be unrelated. Since I've bought the bike it had had a weird hesitation at warm idle. It goes: gluglugluglug_luggluglu... and it happens maybe once or twice in an hours time of commuting. The last day I rode it, it did it 3 times in a row right off the back of each other which it had never done before. It did it a couple more times also. I had run the bike almost bone dry and filled it up st the station and it did it right after leaving the station.

i think if I cant isolate anything I might end up buying a replacement harness and fuel pump and relays and call it a day lol. But im broooke right now. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so I got a few second voltage jump on the wires going to the fuel pump when I turn everything on. I was doing this test wrong before. So 100% it is the pumperooski. Had some rough days pass me by lately but I have my pump kit and will be doing it Friday or Sunday.

Good idea on the dry gas. Not a bad thing to keep in the trunk for sure. Excited though. Hoping that the intermittent hesitation at warm idle I've had since I bought the bike will finally be cured with a new pump and filter. Already did the pressure regulator. Should be good.
 

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I'll be installing a cell phone signal booster on the roof of my house this weekend... I'd much rather be turning wrenches on a motorcycle! 🙂🙂🙂
 

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Might check this video out, I read a couple comments on the video with other people having the same pump short issue. Maybe the same thing, but for sure, the pump should turn with 12 to the brown and green wires. If not, then its something wrong with the pump.

I wish I would have found this vid!! Yes that’s a problem. The brass block that connects the wires from the outside to the inside corrodes. I used my Dremel and ground it away, doing so from the inside portion. I then was able to solder the whole thing again and it fixed my problem that sounds like is your problem! Stupid that they still charge a fortune for the assembly!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wish I would have found this vid!! Yes that’s a problem. The brass block that connects the wires from the outside to the inside corrodes. I used my Dremel and ground it away, doing so from the inside portion. I then was able to solder the whole thing again and it fixed my problem that sounds like is your problem! Stupid that they still charge a fortune for the assembly!!
I then used a putty that was impervious to fuel to reseal the connection. It has lasted for 3 years now, knock on wood!!!

Interesting to see another poor soul with the same issue. Will definitely be finding out if I have the same, or if the pump just failed. It was replaced a few years ago by previous owner, and I replaced FPR right after I bought it... so... something going on with all this. What kind of puddy did you use? I tried using puddy to seal a cracked fuel tank once and it took a looooot of messing around to get it to finally seal... im sure it didn't last very long lol.. I used that jb weld steel putty and then put like regular jb weld marine epoxy over the steel putty. It sealed. At least for the remaining year I owned that bike....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Fixed! Got my new fuel pump/filter installed. It was just the pump itself. Bike runs awesome now. I guess the pump and/or filter was on it's last leg since I got the bike. The bike pulls from a stop much better now. No dreaded dead spot. The filter definitely looked older than the pump. It was the only thing in the tank that looked a little rusty/crusty.

The only bummer is the strainer inside the tank (brillo looking thing) was holding on to the rubber by like literally 2 little threads. I pulled it off with basically no effort. And my kit didn't come with a strainer. Sooooo it has no strainer now. But the inside of the tank looked really clean anyway, and I did replace the filter, so not too worried.

Also got some new carbon for the air duct covers. Aw yeah.
 
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