Maybe this should be stickied?

I'd always recommend you fit new bearings when doing a wheel swap, it's too cheap and easy to be worth ignoring.
Does the 3.5mm have to come off the wheel? You couldn't take it off the calipers or forks to align the discs? Just seems a lot. How thick is the material left in each side of the hub?
Are the VFR8 spacers longer than the 900RR ones?

 

My bearings were pretty pristine and my budget is pretty tight at the moment, but im planning to replace bearings on both wheels soon for peace of mind. You could get bearings that were 2mm wider as long as the dust shields were still useable, i considered that but since i was having the wheel machined it was easy enough to get spacers made.

In terms of where to take material off, destructo hit the nail on the head. By doing it this way i can bolt the old wheel on anytime, also the way the wheel is constructed this makes the hub almost identical to the stock one, theres plenty of material there and the holes are already drilled all the way through the hub.

 

Just checked the fiche and the bearings are 20x47x14.
If you can find some 20x47x16 (or 20x47x5/8") bearings you could use the original spacers?

 

Good post Charles, this question comes up quite a lot on the forum. Although I would be interested to know the answer to bladeracer's question on how much material ls left to bolt the brake rotor on to the wheel.

IMHO this method is preferable to machining the calipers or forks as it allows you to put the standard wheel back in quickly and easily - useful for selling the bike over here, as many buyers prefer standard bikes in the UK.

 

Nice one Charles, how about some pics of your handiwork just to set this thread off?

 

Happy New Year!

Here is a posting I wrote on this very subject:8/02/08 & in 07

Hey! I wrote an Xtensive Post on the CBR 900RR 17 in. wheel conversion from 16in. Stock Wheel in 07!

Only! And Only the CBR 600 F3-Wheel from Model Yrs. 96/97/98 with the Matching Center Hub as the CBR 900RR is on the 16in. Front Wheel!

The 93-94 CBR 900RR 16in. Wheel has the Speedo in the Front Wheel Hub!

The 95-97 CBR 900RR 16in. Wheel has the Speedo in the Transmission! And so does the 98/99 CBR 900RR!

The 93 through the 97 CBR 900RR 16in. Wheel has the 290mm Front Rotors as to the *98/99 CBR 900RR has the 320mm Rotors!!! That's why the Front Forks on the 98/99 are BIGGER!

So, the 93/94, the 95-97 and the 98/99 CBR 900RR have THREE Diff: Front 16in. Wheels!!! There are alot of people who still don't realize that!!!

As to your 98/99 CBR 900RR 17in. Conversion, requires a 5mm shim on both sides of the Front wheel and DRILLING by E-LONG-GATING the Holes in the STOCK FRONT ROTORS! * If you use Galfer Wave ROTORS, you will have to adjust to the THICKNESS of the After Market Rotors!

Find a G@@D Race machine Shop to Help you with the Wheel!

* MOST IMPORTANT! DON'T FORGET TO LOWER THE HEIGHT ON YOUR FORKS NOW THAT YOU HAVE A 17in. WHEEL AS TO THE 16in. STOCK! *

To End this Colossal Headache; Just Put an RC51 Front end with the SP1 6-Spoke Front Wheel & this Matter is OVER!!! You know have an Up to Date Front End... This is Cheaper & Overall, more effective than doing the 17inch Front Wheel conversion!

I had to L@@K this up from my Downloaded Records; This 900 Nut Found out something that is the Golden Egg!
1999 CBR900RR 17 inch front wheel ...again - Page 2 - RRZone Forums

This Too Ends any Further Need for the 17 inch F3 wheel Conversion Problems!!!

 

Just Put an RC51 Front end with the SP1 6-Spoke Front Wheel & this Matter is OVER!!! You know have an Up to Date Front End... This is Cheaper & Overall, more effective than doing the 17inch Front Wheel conversion!

I think you have a problem with your math if you think replacing the entire front end can possibly work out cheaper than a new wheel and some very basic machine work

 

I'm glad you mentioned that bladeracer! Finding an F3 Front Wheel Used in Xcellent Condition in the States on EBAY, cost around $175 to $300 or More! New, from Ron Ayers, is $600!!! Now, Buying after Market Rotors to be Machined by a Race Shop is around $400 to $600!!! Galfer Rotors on Average for the CBR900RR is $500! Drilling out the Front Rotors, $50 to $75 a set & Casting the 5mm Shims, another $100 to $150!!! *You only get "1" Shot at Drilling the Elongating Holes into the Rotors! They must be PERFECT! So Far, that's $1000!!! By the way, this doesn't include all the time, money & effort spent on Phone Calls, Faxes, Internet Searches on Forums & Shipping Things to This "1" & That "1"! That's another $1000 +!!! And Don't Forget, THE POWDER COATING; ANOTHER $300 +!!! Unless you want to Ride Around L@@King Stupid with 2-different Color Wheels

I spent a year getting this done & went to everybody in the Biz! From East to West! And, As They Say "For Nothing"

Why? As I stated on the reply of 1/27/10, Our Jolly Brother from the UK, Figured Out that the CBR1100XX Front Rotors Bolt Right On with out any MACHINING! AND THEY DO:clap:

As to the RC51, I Bought the entire Front End with the Front wheel off of EBAY last year for $500! & $50 for Shipping!

I have Inverted Forks, Entire Triple Tree Assembly, 17mm Master Cylinder, Galfer Super Bike Lines, HRC Calipers & the SP1 17 inch Front Wheel! And had it installed for $100 + New stem bearing!!! So Far, $650!

I have an Up to Date Front End Unmatched by anything else you could DO! $650 As To $2500 for a Wheel!

Do the #'s Add Up NOW?:eyebrows:

 

I'm glad you mentioned that bladeracer! Finding an F3 Front Wheel Used in Xcellent Condition in the States on EBAY, cost around $175 to $300 or More! New, from Ron Ayers, is $600!!! Now, Buying after Market Rotors to be Machined by a Race Shop is around $400 to $600!!! Galfer Rotors on Average for the CBR900RR is $500! Drilling out the Front Rotors, $50 to $75 a set & Casting the 5mm Shims, another $100 to $150!!! *You only get "1" Shot at Drilling the Elongating Holes into the Rotors! They must be PERFECT! So Far, that's $1000!!! By the way, this doesn't include all the time, money & effort spent on Phone Calls, Faxes, Internet Searches on Forums & Shipping Things to This "1" & That "1"! That's another $1000 +!!! And Don't Forget, THE POWDER COATING; ANOTHER $300 +!!! Unless you want to Ride Around L@@King Stupid with 2-different Color Wheels

I spent a year getting this done & went to everybody in the Biz! From East to West! And, As They Say "For Nothing"

Why? As I stated on the reply of 1/27/10, Our Jolly Brother from the UK, Figured Out that the CBR1100XX Front Rotors Bolt Right On with out any MACHINING! AND THEY DO:clap:

As to the RC51, I Bought the entire Front End with the Front wheel off of EBAY last year for $500! & $50 for Shipping!

I have Inverted Forks, Entire Triple Tree Assembly, 17mm Master Cylinder, Galfer Super Bike Lines, HRC Calipers & the SP1 17 inch Front Wheel! And had it installed for $100 + New stem bearing!!! So Far, $650!

I have an Up to Date Front End Unmatched by anything else you could DO! $650 As To $2500 for a Wheel!

Do the #'s Add Up NOW?:eyebrows:

Those numbers make even less sense
You're comparing a secondhand front end to a new front wheel price including a heap of not-required extras?
Why would you need to machine the rotors?
And why would you need to buy new aftermarket rotors to machine when you are clearly perfectly happy running secondhand OEM rotors on yours?
As stated by Charles in this thread to do the swap you're looking at the cost of the wheel and $100 in machine work - by your own figures that's $275 to $400 at most, which is at least $250 less than your $650 frontend swap...
I don't consider RC51 forks to be a significant upgrade over the one-year older 900RR forks.
What are HRC calipers?
Why would you look stupid to run different coloured wheels? Some bikes come with different wheel colours from the factory

 

My Man from OZ! I think you've been there too long :hss:
Charles info on the use of the VFR800 Wheel for the 17 inch Conversion from the 16 OEM CBR900RR, isn't common nor useful with the amount of info NOW available for the F3 Front Wheel!:thumbd:

Performance Machine (PM) along with Two Brothers Racing, created the 17 inch wheel for racers back in the early to mid 90's under AMA Rules! PM Wheels where the only manufacturer that made a ready bolt on 17 inch front Wheel for the CBR900RR's! And they're still the only "1's" who still do!:clap:

By 95, when the F3 was Released, some ingenious CBR900RR Racing Nut figured out that the F3 Front Wheel would work on the CBR900RR! And Walla! Wooosh There It G@@s! The CBR900RR's were still the #1 Race Bikes in the AMA circuit! Remember Nicky Hayden? What Bike was He Racing & for Whom?? The CBR900RR for Erion's Race Team!!! And what 17 inch Front Wheel did they Use?
The F3!

No "1" is going to spend Money on OEM Rotors to be Drilled for a custom fit F3 wheel conversion for their 900! You seem to have forgotten that in most cases, the Rotors are used & abused! :nono:

The RC51 Forks (Inverted) are the most Advanced Forks ever made by Honda's HRC Division for a street Bikes EVER! The RC51 was discontinued in 06! I have the 06 Forks with Ohlins Super Bike Internals done by Dan Kyle Racing! And this bike & only this bike from Honda, came with HRC (HONDA RACING CORPORATION) Calipers! And YOU own a HONDA & Didn't Know That:idunno:

There is NO Substitute for the Performance & Response from Inverted Forks! Which is why Honda Discontinued them on their Super bikes! CBR900RR's Being the LAST!

And last but Not least, the Wheels! State Side, we want our wheels to match our bikes! Unless you have some Custom Color Theme Going ON! Otherwise, we don't ride around with miss matched wheels on our bikes! And they don't come like that from the Dealers!!!

1st; pix of Erion CBR900RR F3 Front 2nd; To enjoy the View:eyebrows:

 

My Man from OZ! I think you've been there too long :hss:
Charles info on the use of the VFR800 Wheel for the 17 inch Conversion from the 16 OEM CBR900RR, isn't common nor useful with the amount of info NOW available for the F3 Front Wheel!:thumbd:

Performance Machine (PM) along with Two Brothers Racing, created the 17 inch wheel for racers back in the early to mid 90's under AMA Rules! PM Wheels where the only manufacturer that made a ready bolt on 17 inch front Wheel for the CBR900RR's! And they're still the only "1's" who still do!:clap:

By 95, when the F3 was Released, some ingenious CBR900RR Racing Nut figured out that the F3 Front Wheel would work on the CBR900RR! And Walla! Wooosh There It G@@s! The CBR900RR's were still the #1 Race Bikes in the AMA circuit! Remember Nicky Hayden? What Bike was He Racing & for Whom?? The CBR900RR for Erion's Race Team!!! And what 17 inch Front Wheel did they Use?
The F3!

No "1" is going to spend Money on OEM Rotors to be Drilled for a custom fit F3 wheel conversion for their 900! You seem to have forgotten that in most cases, the Rotors are used & abused! :nono:

The RC51 Forks (Inverted) are the most Advanced Forks ever made by Honda's HRC Division for a street Bikes EVER! The RC51 was discontinued in 06! I have the 06 Forks with Ohlins Super Bike Internals done by Dan Kyle Racing! And this bike & only this bike from Honda, came with HRC (HONDA RACING CORPORATION) Calipers! And YOU own a HONDA & Didn't Know That:idunno:

There is NO Substitute for the Performance & Response from Inverted Forks! Which is why Honda Discontinued them on their Super bikes! CBR900RR's Being the LAST!

And last but Not least, the Wheels! State Side, we want our wheels to match our bikes! Unless you have some Custom Color Theme Going ON! Otherwise, we don't ride around with miss matched wheels on our bikes! And they don't come like that from the Dealers!!!

1st; pix of Erion CBR900RR F3 Front 2nd; To enjoy the View:eyebrows:

If the F3 wheel _was_ a common modification for $2500 (which is a joke) then maybe now that people realise they can use the VFR800 wheel (also from '98) for just a few hundred dollars they'd be stupid to mess with the F3 wheel.
What relevance is there to who made an aftermarket wheel back in the mid nineties? Why wouldn't people simply run a 17" wheel off something else that had them, the obvious choice being the GSXR750 from '88 onwards. The F3 info you claim is NOW available was available ten years ago and people were doing the swap back then - it's not new information because you only discovered it in '07/'08.
Yes, I remember Nicky Hayden, vaguely. He used to win some races _many_ years ago I think. A poor joke he's turned into.
Who on earth told you the RC51 forks were so special? Modern forks would be better whether inverts or conventional.
You didn't mention that you paid $650 for your frontend with Ohlins internals, that's a great deal.
So the calipers are marked HRC? The ones I've seen are Nissin's similar to the Blades and F4.
I own a Honda because it was cheap at the time, not because I care who made the calipers
You have it backwards. Honda kept the conventional forks for so long because inverts aren't any better. Then they eventually joined in with everybody else to keep up with fashion. Same with radial brake calipers, they're no better than conventionals either.
As for coloured wheels, those F3 wheels you love so much, what colour are they on the Smokin' Joe...

 

The point of this thread was to put a solution out there that people continuously ask for. Please stop polluting it with a bunch of mis-information. I did EXTENSIVE research on this, including precision measurements with a CNC. I am completely confident in every word i posted and I think having a working 17 in front wheel for around 200 bucks is a hell of a deal.

 

I am completely confident in every word i posted and I think having a working 17 in front wheel for around 200 bucks is a hell of a deal.

Absolutely. That's why I suggested it be stickied. Every time the question gets asked the answers vary quite wildly, so it would be good to be able to direct people to one single source of a simple way that works with minimal cost in time and money.

 

My reason in participating in this thread, was to inform you as to the vast information that has been written on this subject in the past 12 to 15 years! including mine! From Periodicals written in Magazines; like Sport Ryder, Motorcyclist , Superbike, & Internet; CBR-Forum, RRZone & Fireblades!

When I 1st did this conversion was back in 97! And the length of time to do it was the cost I mention! On average, to do this Conversion Correctly, will involve a Grand or More! Half A$$, much less!

As to Nicky Hayden, he won back to back AMA Super Bike Championships! And helped Colin Edwards win in the AMA Super Bike Championship as his Teammate on the RC51! Which is why Repsol Honda Chose him for the World Moto GP Team! And he Won the World Moto GP! Once! But He did Win! Just like Stoner Did! What have you Won??? A True Racer never Puts Down another for Their Achievements! I guess that says a lot about YOU!

And Now to the Forks as YOU put it bladeracer! Ohlins are the Worlds premier Forks and they're All Inverted for a Reason! Including Showas! Which I will not elaborate on any further because you have demonstrated that you lack the Intelligence & the Comprehension to understand this! Must be the Sheep! Mahahah!

This site as others are here to support Us, Stand by Us & Prevail to our Success! "Survival" Maintaining it's Integrity, it's Honesty & Devotion is only as Good! as it's members ARE!

You Guys are STUPID!!!:evilaugh:

As I said "enjoy the view"!

 

I did the conversion about 5 years ago on my 93. Got the f3 wheel for $160 shipped, and $100 to machine a bit of the hub off so I could use the original hub driven speedo, and to straighten my original rotors as mine were slightly out of spec (they are still true today). The cbr900 and f3 rotors are identical, no machining or elongating of the holes required. Direct bolt on. I would have to use my imagination to try to spend $2500.
Man, the machine shop and powder coaters saw you coming a mile away, and they took you for a hard ride.

 

:hmm:

 

What size tyre do you need on the front? 120/60/17 or 120/70/17?

 

What size tyre do you need on the front? 120/60/17 or 120/70/17?

120/70 would be the norm but it's personal preference.
When I raced my '90 GSXR750 on Michelin Hi-Sports in the early nineties I preferred 130/60 fronts.

 

120/70/17 Corsa or CT are the best all rounder IMHO

 

i went with 120/70/17 2cts's, getting a set mounted today hopefully

 

I have ajdapilot's 17" F3 wheel on my bike with the galfer wave rotors, It is yellow and a fine looking piece. He was very helpful with the setup, I can't say enough for him. IMHO Thanks Jackson

Jim

 

I have ajdapilot's 17" F3 wheel on my bike with the galfer wave rotors, It is yellow and a fine looking piece. He was very helpful with the setup, I can't say enough for him. IMHO Thanks Jackson

Jim

Did it cost you $2500
Did he say you look stupid riding a bike with different coloured wheels...

 

Nah! Just You Riding on a KangaRoo!!!

 

Hondasrule is My Man! As they say "the world doesn't suffer F@@Ls":evilaugh:

 

Thanks Guys, My bike is a one off and I love it that way. Of course it is not done yet. It's only been on the road for about 4 months now, I still need a steering damper and a few other small items

 

Seems a reasonable explanation to me... but why did they fit 120/60 to 600's and 120/70's to litre bikes?

If was just for cost would fit the same tyre to both.. Perhaps it is a case of perceived difference creating perceived value - you know- a more powerful bike needs different tyres, forks/shocks and brakes... and whilst these may help, the biggest difference is probably the mental attitude and general ability of the biker (at least for the general public...)

 

They didn't. Most 600's also run 120/70 fronts.
Just as some bikes run 190/50 or 190/55 rears some bikes run different fronts.
It could be that they found in testing that a different profile had significant advantages.
It could also be that a tyre manufacturer did a deal with them to produce a particular tyre.

 

plase help nothing but problems with my conversion.. 1999 rr switched to 17.. 5 mm shims both sides.... stock rotors redrilled tighten down the calipers the wheel, tomuch drag....... can anyone help before i go fing nuts.... 330 651 7009

 

plase help nothing but problems with my conversion.. 1999 rr switched to 17.. 5 mm shims both sides.... stock rotors redrilled tighten down the calipers the wheel, tomuch drag....... can anyone help before i go fing nuts.... 330 651 7009

Which wheel are you using?
Did somebody tell you to use 5mm shims or is that what you measured yourself?
These shims are for the axle spacers or the discs?
Without the calipers, the wheel spins fine?
With the calipers mounted centrally over the discs is there a gap between them and the fork legs where they mount?

 

Hello. I've just read through this thread and am curious for some feedback about picking up a rim to be used in conversion.

Would this rim work out:

95 Honda CBR 600 F3 VT 401820 Front Rim Wheel 17X3.5: eBay Motors (item 360282682053 end time Aug-18-10 16:55:33 PDT)

Thanks!

 

Hello. I've just read through this thread and am curious for some feedback about picking up a rim to be used in conversion.

Would this rim work out:

95 Honda CBR 600 F3 VT 401820 Front Rim Wheel 17X3.5: eBay Motors (item 360282682053 end time Aug-18-10 16:55:33 PDT)

Thanks!

What bike do you want to put it on?
It should go straight onto a pre-'98 Blade.
US$120 for a bare bent wheel seems steep though.

 

Oops! Guess that info would be helpfull... So I would be looking to do this conversion to 17" rim on the front of 1999 Honda CBR 900/919 RR Fireblade.

I have been riding on 130/70-16 on the front. I'm in need of tires and have found the size extremely limiting as to my choice of tire.

On the rear service manual says 180/55-17, but have been running a 190/50-17. Has anyone noticed any difference between these sizes?

Also, for the front, can I put a different size like 120/80-16 on there and if I go with 17" rim what would sizing change to? Like 120/60-17?

Thank you!

 

Just a heads up on this. I recently found a post and did the 17" conversion on my 98 900RR.

What I used was the F3 Wheel from I believe a 97. I used the rotors from a 97 Blackbird. It is the same diameter and also the same bolt pattern that is on the F3 wheel. I also used the axle from the 98 900. This was almost a perfect fit. The only modification I had to make was.... I had to have two shims made for the front axle. Which were close to 2mm's one for each side.

Put it all together and it fit perfectly! This was by far the easiest way I had found. Hope this helps anyone that is wanting to do the conversion with the stock forks.

 

Just to clear up any doubts, I have just done a 17' wheel conversion on my 99 RRX, (RRW is the same)

• Pre V-Tec VFR800 front wheel
• 1999-2004 Blackbird brake discs
• Custom wheel spacers (2mm longer each side)
• Bolt it in
• Ride it

It really couldn't be simpler, and the VFR wheel has the same spoke pattern so the bike still looks original, :thumb::thumb::thumb:

 

Just to clear up any doubts, I have just done a 17' wheel conversion on my 99 RRX, (RRW is the same)

• Pre V-Tec VFR800 front wheel
• 1999-2004 Blackbird brake discs
• Custom wheel spacers (2mm longer each side)
• Bolt it in
• Ride it

Fantastic post, simplifies a lot of confusion that I had going on. Just out of interest, do you know the difference between the Blackbird discs and the CBR900 discs? I'm hoping the answer is 2mm each side, where is where the advice I had been given of "machine 2mm off each side of the wheel" comes into play.

If I understand correctly, the Blackbird discs negates the need to machine the wheel at all?

Thanks, apologies for the confusion, so much conflicting advice and many posts relating to different year 'blades.

 

That's what I did and dropped the forks 12mm through the top yoke..

 

Just out of curiosity was the 12mm drop through your own experimenting or recommended. I did the swap only 97rrv and didn't change the forks at all yet. I had advice from 5-20mm for road use.

 

Ye I tried setting it a 5mm them 10 etc... 20mm was too much shook its head a lot.. 15mm was ok but still got the odd shake.. so tried 12mm and that was fine... if\ you have a damper.. 15mm would be the best option IMHO...but I dont

 

Thanks for that vex. No I don't have a damper on mine. I'm quite happy to trade off a bit slower steering for slappers! I haven't changed mine at all and it feels fine so wouldn't know any different in how fast the steering was before because I did the change pretty much as soon as I got it.