Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New to the forum and just picked up a 98 900rr.

Things the bike needs now......

1: Rear brake lever mount is busted.... Will add pic
and would like to know the best place to pick one up.

2: No front turn signals. I'm not sure why but it looks like it had flush mounts at one time. The rear signals still work. Ill add pics so you can see. I would also like to know the best site to pick some up.

3. No tag lights at all. I thought about just buying a short LED strip and tapping into the running lights.

4: When at idle and deceleration I have a popping sound like It's running to rich or lean. It does have a Vance and Hines pipe but I'm not sure it was tuned at they had it installed. I'll add video after I upload to YouTube.

Thanks and all help is greatly appreciated.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,553 Posts
im not much of a carb guy so i wont throw guesses out about the popping. as far as thye parts you mentioned needing check ebay. there is a huge selection of flush mount signals. just look for a seller with plenty of good feedback and i usually sort by distance, nearest first to kinda cut thru some of the china sellers. not to say i wont buy china stuff or that most of them prob arent made there anyway but shipping is faster and should there be a problem its a bit easier to deal with a us seller imo. : ) im not 100% but i think when you put in led lights on these older bikes you gotta add some kind of flasher module or they will flash very fast. ive never added led where incandescent bulbs were so dont quote me on that. i dont think its anything major just a little box that goes in line when you install led blinkers.

its a little hard to tell exactly whats up with the brake master from the picture. is the whole rear set broken where the heal plate goes thru n bolts into the master? either way again check ebay for used parts. if nothing else you can get a set of these china rear sets for under 100$ and everyone ive seen or talked to says they are actually nice.

Black Rearset Foot Pegs Rear Set Honda CBR900RR CBR893RR CBR919RR 1994 1999 | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CBR900RR-Rear-Set-1998-1999-Pro-tek-Rearset-CBR-900RR-CBR-900RR-/271803189110?hash=item3f48bb8776&vxp=mtr


here is a used right rear set and it alone is about the same cost as the new aftermarket set from china. if it were me and my money id just buy the aftermarket. they are adjustable so kind of an upgrade.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-HONDA-CBR900RR-OEM-RIGHT-REARSET-REAR-SET-DRIVER-FOOT-PEG-REST-STOP-/251900929190?fits=Year:1998|Model:CBR900RR&hash=item3aa67724a6&vxp=mtr

someone on the site might have a set they would let go of as well.

or if your wanting a new oem part check ron ayers or partzilla's web site. they have parts fiche you just look up your part number from the diagram n can order from them. be ready with the wallet tho. : )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
im not much of a carb guy so i wont throw guesses out about the popping. as far as thye parts you mentioned needing check ebay. there is a huge selection of flush mount signals. just look for a seller with plenty of good feedback and i usually sort by distance, nearest first to kinda cut thru some of the china sellers. not to say i wont buy china stuff or that most of them prob arent made there anyway but shipping is faster and should there be a problem its a bit easier to deal with a us seller imo. : ) im not 100% but i think when you put in led lights on these older bikes you gotta add some kind of flasher module or they will flash very fast. ive never added led where incandescent bulbs were so dont quote me on that. i dont think its anything major just a little box that goes in line when you install led blinkers.

its a little hard to tell exactly whats up with the brake master from the picture. is the whole rear set broken where the heal plate goes thru n bolts into the master? either way again check ebay for used parts. if nothing else you can get a set of these china rear sets for under 100$ and everyone ive seen or talked to says they are actually nice.

Black Rearset Foot Pegs Rear Set Honda CBR900RR CBR893RR CBR919RR 1994 1999 | eBay

Honda CBR900RR Rear Set 1998 1999 Pro Tek Rearset CBR 900RR CBR 900RR | eBay


here is a used right rear set and it alone is about the same cost as the new aftermarket set from china. if it were me and my money id just buy the aftermarket. they are adjustable so kind of an upgrade.

98 99 Honda CBR900RR Right Rearset Rear Set Driver Foot Peg Rest Stop | eBay

someone on the site might have a set they would let go of as well.

or if your wanting a new oem part check ron ayers or partzilla's web site. they have parts fiche you just look up your part number from the diagram n can order from them. be ready with the wallet tho. : )

Thanks for the links and feedback.
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts
Kevin gave you some great information. The OEM footpeg on eBay is a good price for what's included. I'll try to shed some light on the popping.

A well tuned 900 with a pipe AND jet kit should idle smoothly with no popping. I've never heard a 900 pop at idle like that. I'm gonna say that there is one or more cylinders that is running very lean. Almost like a really bad misfire. I also noticed the revs tended to "hang up" a bit when you blipped the throttle. A properly running 9 should sound like this:


Now, to help you out with your problem, I would recommend removing the carbs, take an inventory of the main and slow jet sizes, vacuum needle position, and fuel mixture screw turns out from lightly seated. Once that is done take the carbs COMPLETELY apart and clean them. Make an initial fuel screw adjustment to 2.5 turns out from lightly seated. Once properly cleaned and put back in the bike have them synced. I would recommend doing this yourself, and buying a manual. I've been working on 900's for the better part of 23 years. They are one of the best running bikes when properly set up. It's not rocket science, but carbs can be daunting the first time you tear into them. I have tons of carb photos I can post for reference if you need them. But if it were my bike the carbs would have already been out and on the bench in the time it took me to type this. Whether you do it or a shop does it, it needs to be done. Good luck, welcome to the forum, welcome back to motorcycles, and congrats on the new to you 900RRW.:thumb:

One more thing, I don't know if you know, but the first picture has the bike sitting really low. Did you know the triple clamp is like 2" lower than stock? Looks like the rear as well. FYI only really.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well I had to pull to carbs. I could ride about 5 miles and it would lose power and die. It would take a minute or two before it would start up.
Before the bike was popping at idle and deceleration. I pulled the carbs and checked the air/fuel mixture and it seemed way out. It was 3 1/2-4 1/2 turns out. I set them all at 2 turns out and the idle popping has completely stopped. The deceleration popping is so small that you can barely tell. I'll pull them again this week and see if i can get the mixture perfect.

As for the tag light issue... I just bought a cheap 4 inch LED strip from autozone and wired it in. Seems to work great. I will be ordering a rearset tomorrow. I'm still trying to decided on the Mirrors with turn signals built in or flush mounts. I made even do both just so that people can see me better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
After changing the A/F mixture.

I think I need another exhaust because I like the way IAN bike sounds.


 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts
Well that does sound a helluva lot better, but seems to only be running on 3 cylinders. Once it's warmed up spray a small amount of water on each header pipe. It should bubble and burn off immediately. Make sure all cylinders/header pipes do it. If one or more don't, and the water runs down the pipe than those cylinders aren't firing properly.

And my sound is all Erion racing, nice rich throaty sound. Thanks for the shout out :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #9


I looked at some of your pics from your build thread and notice i have a small black
box??? missing on the hose I'm touching with the needle nose. Could that be causing some of the issues?
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts


I looked at some of your pics from your build thread and notice i have a small black
box??? missing on the hose I'm touching with the needle nose. Could that be causing some of the issues?
No, the box is just a small housing for a thin foam air filter. That vent tube allows the slides to raise and lower. It just filters the small amount of air coming and going from that tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK..... Fired up bike and let it warm up for about 45 seconds. I sprayed water on all four exhaust pipes and the one on the far left was still cold. I have read to check the plug and see if it's firing and to spray starter fluid in that carb to see if it gets hot. What other things can I do to diagnose the dead cylinder?
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts
OK..... Fired up bike and let it warm up for about 45 seconds. I sprayed water on all four exhaust pipes and the one on the far left was still cold. I have read to check the plug and see if it's firing and to spray starter fluid in that carb to see if it gets hot. What other things can I do to diagnose the dead cylinder?
Well, you've already identified the dead cylinder so good job on that! :clap:

Yes, see if starter fluid will initiate a burn, just be careful while spraying. If the fluid ignites and the cylinder comes back to life it's a fuel issue on that particular carb. If it doesn't ignite then you have a spark/possible compression problem. Pull the plug and test to see if it sparks by grounding the electrode on the motor or frame and hit the start button. If it sparks then it's an cylinder/valve issue. Do you have access to a compression tester?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Sprayed fluid...... Nothing
Checked spark..... It has spark but I was thinking it should have been more powerful. It's just a faint spark that barely even shocked me.
Changed plus to see if that would help and it didn't.
Maybe a coil issue???

I had to put her back together because of no garage and it looks like rain.


UGH......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Tried again with the starter fluid this time with the gas tank still on the bike so I could keep it running.... The pipe only got a little warm but the engine temp was 179. i'm guessing it was only warm because it's so close to the other pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Did a compression test after buying a tester. got up to 200 at one point with revs. I have a video uploading now but it's loading slow. I'll post it as soon as I can.

Also.. I noticed that the pressure would slowly drop after I turned the engine off.
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
8,059 Posts
Holy smokes!!!!:nono::nono:

When doing a compression test there are few guidelines. First off you need a good seal with the threaded connector on the spark plug hole. That will alleviate the pressure dropping. Second, and probably most important is that we are NOT running the bike during this test. I must say, I can definitely appreciate your willingness to learn and getting your bike in tip top shape, but there are some things that need proper technique. A shop manual will build you a wealth of knowledge on your bike, and a Common Service Manual from Honda will outline common service techniques involved in the maintenance and service of many different Honda bikes as well as repair theory. Get them.

Disconnect all the other spark plug leads before performing the test. We don't want the bike running. Then, open the throttle wide open while running the starter. You should get a maximum Reading in only a few revolutions. Each time the piston comes up on the compression stroke the gauge will give a reading until it maxes out. Normally you like to see anything over 170 psi and no large discrepancy between each cylinder. So you need to test the other 3 as well.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top