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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
I've been greatly enjoying this forum since buying my 954 a few months ago. It's been a great deal of fun. It has become a dedicated track bike, with full race fairings, Dunlop Q4's (for now) and been a blast at track days.

Here is my issue. When I bought the bike, it had the red light on on the dash, and the "FI" illuminated as well. I discussed this with the P.O. and his findings were the same as mine. I shorted the diagnostics plug and got "34" blinks from the MIL light, which indicates "Faulty EGCV and air intake valve servo motor voltage".

Here's what I know:
- A previous owner removed the air box "flapper". I know that this is common.

- Erion Racing slip on muffler, factory header pipe, with the big servo valve under the bike. The Erion Racing muffler has been shortened. I drilled rivets out and inspected, to see what/how it was done. The packing looks good.

- bike fitted with K&N air filter

- I've personally installed a "DB Killer" from Hot Bodies Racing, as the track that I run on has a very strict 96db limit.

- the O2 sensor has the wires cut off clean at the sensor! ? Wishing that they left even just an inch of wire, so that I could reconnect!!!

Here is my assertion: My previous experience/knowledge of motorcycles leads me to believe that if the fuel injection system is shorted/bypassed/disconnected, typically, it will default to a "conservative" tune, resulting in a loss of potential power.

The bike runs pretty well from about 6,000 RPM & up. Really comes alive above 7,000 RPM. Though, for being essentially a "liter bike", I feel that it should have more power. It doesnt strike me as being particularly more powerful that my old '06 CBR600RR! With that said, I can pretty easily get to 120 MPH on the straightaway at AMP (Arizona Motorsports Park), and was only slightly having trouble hanging with my riding coach on his MUCH newer GSXR1000. but, still doesn't feel quite "right".

So, thoughts or suggestions on getting this sorted? Or, is there no sorting it with the servo valve bypassed?

Thanks much,
Nik
 

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I can't offer a fix here, other than to pass comment that it's a shame with fuel injection systems that any change from stock standard seems to throw up codes. I have seen a range of servo motor fixes including wiring them open and installing 'servo buddies', but in your case with the wires cut it might be a case of having to replace that unit.

Fortunately, there are some goo electronics 'wizards' on here who I am sure will provide a resolution.
 

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2,433 Posts
Hello all,
I've been greatly enjoying this forum since buying my 954 a few months ago. It's been a great deal of fun. It has become a dedicated track bike, with full race fairings, Dunlop Q4's (for now) and been a blast at track days.

Here is my issue. When I bought the bike, it had the red light on on the dash, and the "FI" illuminated as well. I discussed this with the P.O. and his findings were the same as mine. I shorted the diagnostics plug and got "34" blinks from the MIL light, which indicates "Faulty EGCV and air intake valve servo motor voltage".

Here's what I know:
- A previous owner removed the air box "flapper". I know that this is common.

- Erion Racing slip on muffler, factory header pipe, with the big servo valve under the bike. The Erion Racing muffler has been shortened. I drilled rivets out and inspected, to see what/how it was done. The packing looks good.

- bike fitted with K&N air filter

- I've personally installed a "DB Killer" from Hot Bodies Racing, as the track that I run on has a very strict 96db limit.

- the O2 sensor has the wires cut off clean at the sensor! ? Wishing that they left even just an inch of wire, so that I could reconnect!!!

Here is my assertion: My previous experience/knowledge of motorcycles leads me to believe that if the fuel injection system is shorted/bypassed/disconnected, typically, it will default to a "conservative" tune, resulting in a loss of potential power.

The bike runs pretty well from about 6,000 RPM & up. Really comes alive above 7,000 RPM. Though, for being essentially a "liter bike", I feel that it should have more power. It doesnt strike me as being particularly more powerful that my old '06 CBR600RR! With that said, I can pretty easily get to 120 MPH on the straightaway at AMP (Arizona Motorsports Park), and was only slightly having trouble hanging with my riding coach on his MUCH newer GSXR1000. but, still doesn't feel quite "right".

So, thoughts or suggestions on getting this sorted? Or, is there no sorting it with the servo valve bypassed?

Thanks much,
Nik
Are you running a Power Commander, on the bike , if not check this forum for O2 eliminators and servo buddies, will show you dont need the O2 Sensor
 

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Are you sure the exhaust valve is still connected to the cables and turning properly? Has the exhaust valve been removed? Some people "lock" it in place, and if it's been deleted it will throw a code, with some using a ServoBuddy to eliminate the MIL light.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you running a Power Commander, on the bike , if not check this forum for O2 eliminators and servo buddies, will show you dont need the O2 Sensor
No Power Commander at this time. Shall I look into running one? I just saw a Power Commander 3 for sale. Is that too dated?

Are you sure the exhaust valve is still connected to the cables and turning properly? Has the exhaust valve been removed? Some people "lock" it in place, and if it's been deleted it will throw a code, with some using a ServoBuddy to eliminate the MIL light.
No sir, I am not sure of that. I assume that the servo was locked into position, just because that was a popular modification. It runs really well up on the top end, and seems to be down on power below 6-6.5k RPM. That SEEMS to be indicative of what I would expect the bike to do with that servo held wide open all the time. Is there a way for me to look and verify? May sound silly, but I've never messed with that system. I'd kinda like to bypass that system entirely with an aftermarket full length exhaust. I'm surprised that nobody has made a small piece that entirely replaces that valve in the exhaust! It looks entirely bolt in! Perhaps I need to get practiced in TIG welding Titanium. I'm pretty sure that I could do it with the right filler rod and back filling the piece with gas... might be a good quarantine project!

Mostly, I want to make it "right". That doesn't necessarily mean stock, but I don't like the red light on. It makes me nervous, as that light likely comes on if the bike overheats or drops oil pressure! I would like to be warned if there is a catastrophic problem. Can't be warned, if the warning light is always on!

I'm open to replacing the O2 sensor, too, if there is value in it.

Thanks for any/all help!

Nik
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't offer a fix here, other than to pass comment that it's a shame with fuel injection systems that any change from stock standard seems to throw up codes. I have seen a range of servo motor fixes including wiring them open and installing 'servo buddies', but in your case with the wires cut it might be a case of having to replace that unit.

Fortunately, there are some goo electronics 'wizards' on here who I am sure will provide a resolution.
Just to offer some clarity, it's the wires on the O2 sensor that were cut flush. Perhaps others were also cut, I haven't confirmed.

Nik
 

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Premium Member
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No Power Commander at this time. Shall I look into running one? I just saw a Power Commander 3 for sale. Is that too dated?


No sir, I am not sure of that. I assume that the servo was locked into position, just because that was a popular modification. It runs really well up on the top end, and seems to be down on power below 6-6.5k RPM. That SEEMS to be indicative of what I would expect the bike to do with that servo held wide open all the time. Is there a way for me to look and verify? May sound silly, but I've never messed with that system. I'd kinda like to bypass that system entirely with an aftermarket full length exhaust. I'm surprised that nobody has made a small piece that entirely replaces that valve in the exhaust! It looks entirely bolt in! Perhaps I need to get practiced in TIG welding Titanium. I'm pretty sure that I could do it with the right filler rod and back filling the piece with gas... might be a good quarantine project!

Mostly, I want to make it "right". That doesn't necessarily mean stock, but I don't like the red light on. It makes me nervous, as that light likely comes on if the bike overheats or drops oil pressure! I would like to be warned if there is a catastrophic problem. Can't be warned, if the warning light is always on!

I'm open to replacing the O2 sensor, too, if there is value in it.

Thanks for any/all help!

Nik
Just at present the bike will be starting in "open loop" , the PC will help that, so no need to replace the O2 sensor , the Servo Buddy will get rid of the light,
 

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Probably a PC and some dyno time will give you the performance you were looking for. If it feel flat til 7k rpm then it will probably feel quite a rush when it comes on song but may not be right still. You could leave the servo motor fault - it wont reduce power, but I'f fit a servo delete of some sort. What the lack of O2 sensor will do I don't know - UK bikes never had them on the 929/954.
 

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Hello all,
I've been greatly enjoying this forum since buying my 954 a few months ago. It's been a great deal of fun. It has become a dedicated track bike, with full race fairings, Dunlop Q4's (for now) and been a blast at track days.

Here is my issue. When I bought the bike, it had the red light on on the dash, and the "FI" illuminated as well. I discussed this with the P.O. and his findings were the same as mine. I shorted the diagnostics plug and got "34" blinks from the MIL light, which indicates "Faulty EGCV and air intake valve servo motor voltage".

Here's what I know:
- A previous owner removed the air box "flapper". I know that this is common.

- Erion Racing slip on muffler, factory header pipe, with the big servo valve under the bike. The Erion Racing muffler has been shortened. I drilled rivets out and inspected, to see what/how it was done. The packing looks good.

- bike fitted with K&N air filter

- I've personally installed a "DB Killer" from Hot Bodies Racing, as the track that I run on has a very strict 96db limit.

- the O2 sensor has the wires cut off clean at the sensor! ? Wishing that they left even just an inch of wire, so that I could reconnect!!!

Here is my assertion: My previous experience/knowledge of motorcycles leads me to believe that if the fuel injection system is shorted/bypassed/disconnected, typically, it will default to a "conservative" tune, resulting in a loss of potential power.

The bike runs pretty well from about 6,000 RPM & up. Really comes alive above 7,000 RPM. Though, for being essentially a "liter bike", I feel that it should have more power. It doesnt strike me as being particularly more powerful that my old '06 CBR600RR! With that said, I can pretty easily get to 120 MPH on the straightaway at AMP (Arizona Motorsports Park), and was only slightly having trouble hanging with my riding coach on his MUCH newer GSXR1000. but, still doesn't feel quite "right".

So, thoughts or suggestions on getting this sorted? Or, is there no sorting it with the servo valve bypassed?

Thanks much,
Nik
I don't know if you'd be interested...I have a 954 wire harness that may solve 1 problem,and a ecu for 954. I live in Phx.
 

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There’s a post up at the moment with a PC iii for sale. You’ll be better off with that, plus there’s lots a of maps around
 

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No Power Commander at this time. Shall I look into running one? I just saw a Power Commander 3 for sale. Is that too dated?


No sir, I am not sure of that. I assume that the servo was locked into position, just because that was a popular modification. It runs really well up on the top end, and seems to be down on power below 6-6.5k RPM. That SEEMS to be indicative of what I would expect the bike to do with that servo held wide open all the time. Is there a way for me to look and verify? May sound silly, but I've never messed with that system. I'd kinda like to bypass that system entirely with an aftermarket full length exhaust. I'm surprised that nobody has made a small piece that entirely replaces that valve in the exhaust! It looks entirely bolt in! Perhaps I need to get practiced in TIG welding Titanium. I'm pretty sure that I could do it with the right filler rod and back filling the piece with gas... might be a good quarantine project!

Mostly, I want to make it "right". That doesn't necessarily mean stock, but I don't like the red light on. It makes me nervous, as that light likely comes on if the bike overheats or drops oil pressure! I would like to be warned if there is a catastrophic problem. Can't be warned, if the warning light is always on!

I'm open to replacing the O2 sensor, too, if there is value in it.

Thanks for any/all help!

Nik
As far as the HTEV no valve
107062
replacement, they have been made. Check eBay.
My 954 is a dog under 3k but really wakes up around 6k it runs circles around 600rr’s all day. It’s a shame PO removed the air flapper servo instead of just pinning the flaps down. You should be able to manually move the htev flapper in the exhaust unless it’s been made to stay open and yes that would throw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey guys,
Thanks for the help. I bought a new exhaust. A Two Brothers, that included the HTEV delete, which I particularly needed for the race fairing belly pan. The HTEV stuck down too far, and I didn't want a big bulge in my fairing. I'll get a servo buddy, and start looking for a PC3 or PC5.
 

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Is the sticky at the start of this forum the servo Buddy?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've read that post too, and wondered if wiring as described there would do the same thing as a "servo buddy".
 
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