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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I was having a problem with the fuel pump not priming. It turned out that the fuel cut off relay was corroded. I cleaned the terminals and the fuel pump primes and stops when it should (ignition and start/stop both on). But the bike still will not start. I'm not getting spark. I put 4 brand new Denso plugs in it. Still no spark. I have 12.8v at the one wire on all 4 spark plug coils. It also seems that the fuel injectors are not opening (I don't smell or see fuel). I also have 12.8v on the one wire at each of the injectors. Code 19 is one of the faults, ignition pulse generator. I put a brand new one on the bike. The cam pulse sensor was also changed. I don't understand how the IPG could be bad.

Code 9 is the IAT sensor but the bike should still run with this fault.

Any and all suggestions are much appreciated.
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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Try cracking throttle to 1/3-1/2 open while starting. Once it starts, hold throttle until MIL illuminates constantly... it'll smooth out then. Recheck IAT connections: one electrical, one vacuum. Vacuum line may have come off.

Revisit this thread with results.
 

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Code 19 is one of the faults, ignition pulse generator. I put a brand new one on the bike. The cam pulse sensor was also changed. I don't understand how the IPG could be bad.
No spark or injection events, coupled with having +12v on one side of the coil and injectors points very strongly to the fact that the ECU is not seeing the engine turning. The Code 19 fault does not conclusively mean the sensor is bad, it could equally mean there is an open circuit between the the ECU and the sensor, or the sensor and it's ground connection.

Incorrect cam timing will also cause this (i.e. ECU sees a mismatch between the cam and crank sensor) though much less likely unless it's been apart recently.
 

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It turned out that the fuel cut off relay was corroded.
You said any and all, so this may/may not be related. :idunno:

That relay being corroded makes me think of the 40 yr old bike that would not run. Instinctively I dipped the plastic connectors into a cup of vinegar and watched the green pins begin to bubble from the acid. Once they stopped the chemical reaction, I rinsed with water and blew dry the connectors. Reconnected all the clean connectors on both the jobber's side and the main harness side and the bike fired up.

1. Magnetism: cannot be separated with his two buddies by his side.
2. Heat: at the connector pins/relay/batter posts,stator. etc.
3. Chemical Reaction: as the pins are green in color of that coating over copper. The white powder on the battery cables and battery posts and that lead in the chemRe = It's time for an acid bath.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No spark or injection events, coupled with having +12v on one side of the coil and injectors points very strongly to the fact that the ECU is not seeing the engine turning. The Code 19 fault does not conclusively mean the sensor is bad, it could equally mean there is an open circuit between the the ECU and the sensor, or the sensor and it's ground connection.

Incorrect cam timing will also cause this (i.e. ECU sees a mismatch between the cam and crank sensor) though much less likely unless it's been apart recently.
The cam pulsor sensor was out when I initially looked at the bike. I tried to start it. So the engine did turn over but obviously did not start. The ignition pulse generator was also not installed when this event happened. Could trying to start it without these sensors installed messed up the timing? And if so, how would I reset the timing?
 

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Cranking the engine without cam sensor fitted wouldn't mess up the cam timing.

To check the timing you have to remove the cam cover and the ignition pulse generator cover on the crankcase. You turn the engine to align the 'T' on the pulse generator rotor with the timing mark on the cover, and then check the marks on the cam sprockets are correctly aligned:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cranking the engine without cam sensor fitted wouldn't mess up the cam timing.

To check the timing you have to remove the cam cover and the ignition pulse generator cover on the crankcase. You turn the engine to align the 'T' on the pulse generator rotor with the timing mark on the cover, and then check the marks on the cam sprockets are correctly aligned:

Thank you sir. I think I just realized that I do not have a pulse generator rotor. I only have a black sprocket looking wheel in there.
 

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Thank you sir. I think I just realized that I do not have a pulse generator rotor. I only have a black sprocket looking wheel in there.

If the rotor is missing then I think you've found the problem :D

When the previous owner has removed the pulse generator rotor he may have messed with the cam timing as well, so probably worth checking it.
 

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If the rotor is missing then I think you've found the problem :D

When the previous owner has removed the pulse generator rotor he may have messed with the cam timing as well, so probably worth checking it.
This is the pulse rotor? Because I have inside the clutch cover on the crank.
 

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