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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a decent alternative to the OEM 33$ exhaust valve? just throwing out partzilla's cost. Just seems expensive still when you have to do a few of them.
 

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Is there a decent alternative to the OEM 33$ exhaust valve? just throwing out partzilla's cost. Just seems expensive still when you have to do a few of them.

Kibblewhite and Ferrea are the obvious ones that come to mind.
Why are you replacing valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just have a few that are pitted. Didn't even know if you could mix n match with oem and aftermarket etc. I have seen you guys post some things like you wouldn't want to use Ti with the stock springs due to spring weight.. But I guess that is just the bottleneck to spending so much more money on Ti and not getting the action you want with still having a heavy spring.
 

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Just have a few that are pitted. Didn't even know if you could mix n match with oem and aftermarket etc. I have seen you guys post some things like you wouldn't want to use Ti with the stock springs due to spring weight.. But I guess that is just the bottleneck to spending so much more money on Ti and not getting the action you want with still having a heavy spring.

Too pitted to recut or lap them in?
Personally, I wouldn't mix OEM and aftermarket. although they'd probably be just fine.

Pointless using ti valves with OEM springs.
 

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Did you think I meant that the seat on the head itself was pitted?
I really was trying to say that the valve face was.
If I put new valves in yea I would re-cut the seat then lap I guess.

The pitting--to me--looks to be deeper than what compound could reduce via lapping but then I've never lapped before so not sure. Also I thought you weren't really suppose to depend on lapping for any pitting of the valve itself since it's a lot harder material correct?
 

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Did you think I meant that the seat on the head itself was pitted?
I really was trying to say that the valve face was.
If I put new valves in yea I would re-cut the seat then lap I guess.

The pitting--to me--looks to be deeper than what compound could reduce via lapping but then I've never lapped before so not sure. Also I thought you weren't really suppose to depend on lapping for any pitting of the valve itself since it's a lot harder material correct?

No, I assumed you meant that the sealing face of the valve was pitted.
If the face of the valve is pitted I can't see it causing any problems unless it's very close around the edge.
I'd have to see how bad the pitting is to decide if it's repairable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well here's a pic as seen through a loop. There are three in this condition. This is after a quick brass brushing wheel took off the cruft.
 

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Well here's a pic as seen through a loop. There are three in this condition. This is after a quick brass brushing wheel took off the cruft.

Okay, that is the sealing face.
Is the seat the same?
You will need to cut the seat and grind the valve or replace it. I would try grinding the valve first and then lap it into the seat. But check the depth of the seat first, if cutting it drops the valve too far into the head you'll probably want to replace the seat as well.
The cutting tools are not particularly expensive, although if you consider $33 to be too expensive for a valve then you're unlikely to want to spend the money on the cutters, though I doubt aftermarket valves are going to be much cheaper - unless China makes some, which I wouldn't recommend using anyway.

Try Neway for valve recutting tools - Neway Manufacturing Inc.
I bought a bunch of cutters to allow me to recut most modern-ish motorcycle valves for about $300 some years ago - a great investment if you're doing regular engine work.

A cheaper alternative is probably to simply swap a complete secondhand head onto your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So far from what I can tell the seats don't look that bad. I finally have a free weekend here to clean it so I'll look closer.
Yea I was checking out the neway cutters. And yea a good price n investment in my mind.
I thought the with these valves u didn't want to grind them because they are coated?
Also, don't remember if I saw a spec for how deep/far into the head is too far for existing seats. Have any advice there?
Also, may have just come across a cheap second head. Have to break into it to see if it's worth it.
I have a whole different set of q's about the guides as I think those May have been part of the reason for the condition of these. Figured I should start a diff thread for that though. : )
 
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