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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys I need some help. I've just installed a full system, PCIII Usb, and a custom map from a local shope here. Even with the custom map It shutters like it's to rich between 3500 and 4500 RPM. Has anyone else had this problem. He worked on this for quite a while and he leaned, made it rich and it made no difference. I know you are saying you never ride the bike at that low of a RPM but I do because when I'm on the Highway in 6th gear it kinda hovers around there. It's just nerv racking. The power curve is sweet and it pulls hard all the way up to the redline. What's the cause of this. If you have a map that great down low please post up so I can compare and get some direction on this.Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sure I'll post it up as soon as I get home. I'm at work right now. Thanks
 

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You just need to move to a city/state/ or country where the speed limit on the highway is more than 55 so you can 'cruise' at around 5K at about 70-75 in sixth! or maybe you should just pretend that 4th or 5th gear is your top gear, I don't think the blade wants to 'cruise' on the highway at 3500-4500 RPM thats just my opinion. By the way what type of MPG do you get when you 'cruise' at that low RPM all day? I get 30 MPG during mixed city and highway driving from 91 octane CA gas and thats never changed from mile 1-6000.
 

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It seems to me that your tuner doesn't have the tuning link software from DynoJet or he would be able to smooth that area out without a lot of trial and error. Try to find an approved DynoJet tuning center and have them use the tuning link software (and make certain they pinch off the pair hose, or you'll just end up chasing your tail).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Abtech, Thanks for the tip because he didn't pinch off the pair hose. I'll let him know.
 

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Two words. Dumb Arse. How many times do guys walk away from getting a powercommander mapped saying it sux, or "have you got a map I can compare" etc all because the dope that mapped it doesn't even know to block off the pair hose? Geeeesh. Go back, flog him, and get him to do it right. hahaha. The other problem is, "He made it rich, he made it lean, nothing worked". Hahahahahaha I wouldn't take it back there. He doesn't know what he's doing.
 

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The Sook said:
Two words. Dumb Arse. How many times do guys walk away from getting a powercommander mapped saying it sux, or "have you got a map I can compare" etc all because the dope that mapped it doesn't even know to block off the pair hose? Geeeesh. Go back, flog him, and get him to do it right. hahaha. The other problem is, "He made it rich, he made it lean, nothing worked". Hahahahahaha I wouldn't take it back there. He doesn't know what he's doing.
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info everyone. I'll get with him Friday and bring it to his attention and hopefully this will fix the problem. I'm not unhappy with what was done it's just I think that it can be better.
 

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Understatement of the year RIGHT there. hahaha

Pair hose is the hose running from the airbox into the "pair" valve etc. It's basically to pull clean air from the airbox, and then push that through the exhaust system, giving lower emissions readings, due to the higher amount of clean air being thrown out the back of the bike. Problem is, if you ,map the bike without blocking that hose, the air/fuel will read lean, due to the increased air, BUT your bikes engine isn't running lean, it's most likely rich. SO, you check the air/fuel, and it's lean, you add fuel, it gets worse, coz you're a dumb arse and what the sensor is reading isn't what the bike is actually doing. It's an easy thing to see......... when you take it back, get him to start the bike with the sensor down the pipe........ then watch the air/fuel reading when he blocks that hose off. whoala......... instant richness.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You guys are the Shiz-nit. I had some time to kill today so I found the article on "pair valve removal". I figure what the hell do it now that way when I go back to him Friday at least that part will be done. So I removed the valve and capped of the ends and used the longer hose from the pair valve and put it on the valve cover nipples. put this thing back together and BAM!!!!!!! no more stutter!!!!!! I'm still going just to see what it is doing on the Dyno but Damn what a huge difference! Thank you guru's of the 954 world.
 
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