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Discussion Starter #1
Please no dissertations on learning to be smooth and all that. :p

I bought my 954 early last year and now have 16k on it, commute on it nearly everyday and do nice long mountain rides with friends on the weekends. (The weekend before last entailed a nice 426 mile loop up to the CRoT, over the ToTD, the Skyway, and a return via Hwy 60.)

One thing that has always bugged me about this bike is that the throttle is a bit sensitive. In sweepers and so forth, it's not a big deal, but in really tight and twisty stuff, I have a hard time making very small corrections and keeping the chassis stable. As a result, I just don't enjoy riding the tight twisties as much as I did with "less powerful" machines.

So I'm looking to fix this issue and wanted y'all's feedback on the following:

1) Install a larger throttle cam. I'd have to reach more to hit WOT, but I so rarely do that, it's not something I'd miss. (I know, such heresy! :evilaugh: )
I have no idea where to get one of these, but I assume race shops would be a good place to start.

2) Go +2 on the rear sprocket. I'm about due to replace the chain anyway, and since I always replace both sprockets at the same time... I'm thinking shortening the gearing a touch would help with the bike feeling "lurchy" when cranked over. (And yes, the chain is adjusted properly.)

I'd appreciate any feedback,
Dan
 

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2 things.......

1st, going +2 on the rear sprocket will shorten the gearing and make the bike react FASTER. You might want to go -2.......

2nd, if you cant slow your right hand down, try squeezing the clutch a bit in 'the tight twisties' and that will slow down the reaction of the bike.
 

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Do you have a PC3 on this bike? It helped with the snatchiness tremendously on my 929.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses, I forgot to include that the bike does have a PC3 on it, along with the full Sato and appropriate map from Dan Kyle. That helped a bunch, but it seems to me that the throttle would benefit from being able to take "smaller steps".

CBRBob - actually, I'm looking for the shorter gearing in order to reduce the delay. As it is now, when I make a mid-turn throttle input, I have to wait a bit for the bike to settle and then go from there. It really feels like the chain is loose, but I've even tried running the chain with very little slack and gotten the same result. Fwiw, I normally just use compression braking to help keep the chassis settled.

Again, appreciate the input.

Dan
 

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Blorton said:
Thanks for the responses, I forgot to include that the bike does have a PC3 on it, along with the full Sato and appropriate map from Dan Kyle. That helped a bunch, but it seems to me that the throttle would benefit from being able to take "smaller steps".

CBRBob - actually, I'm looking for the shorter gearing in order to reduce the delay. As it is now, when I make a mid-turn throttle input, I have to wait a bit for the bike to settle and then go from there. It really feels like the chain is loose, but I've even tried running the chain with very little slack and gotten the same result. Fwiw, I normally just use compression braking to help keep the chassis settled.

Again, appreciate the input.

Dan
This post is an oxi-moron. You're saying that you want quicker reaction from smaller inputs on one hand. And yet you want more subtle inputs because the chasis is unsettled in corners durring throttle changes. And yet you don't want to go down 2 teeth in the back because the response is too slow :huh:
Dude, WTH?
Have you taken all of the slack out of your throttle cables?
 

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I'd like a shorter throw on my 929....seems like there is too much. Either your wrist winds up at an odd angle, or you constantly re-grip, which is annoying....
 

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Baketech said:
I'd like a shorter throw on my 929....seems like there is too much. Either your wrist winds up at an odd angle, or you constantly re-grip, which is annoying....
How about a single pole/single throw ON-OFF switch? I think that might keep your wrist from winding up at an odd angle (OK, maybe not, but it probably won't be the same angle :eek: . . .).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
nedro said:
This post is an oxi-moron.<snip>
Dude, WTH?
Have you taken all of the slack out of your throttle cables?
Sorry to be so confusing - I'm confused myself. :smilebig:

I have not taken all the slack out, through I did drop it way down from the sorry as-delivered setup. I'll take that last little smidge out and see if that does it. Thanks for the pointer.

Custom mapping - good idea. I actually bought a wide-band setup for the cage a couple of years ago, but never got around to installing it. Even though it's limited to something like 11k on the max rpm, I'm sure it would be real helpful towards getting a proper road based tune, as opposed to being strapped down in a hot dyno room. (Not having to pay someone else to do the work would be cool as well. More money for other mods. :eyebrows: )

Thanks again!
Dan
 

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abtech said:
How about a single pole/single throw ON-OFF switch? I think that might keep your wrist from winding up at an odd angle (OK, maybe not, but it probably won't be the same angle :eek: . . .).

:rotfl:

I guess I could just set my Throttlemeister at WFO, then use the kill switch as you describe. Might even get a cool flame effect like the Foggy FP-1.... :sless:
 

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jerseydrew said:
get a custom map! it helps so much you have no idea. and you might squeeze a few more ponies out too...
I nominate the above quote for "Understatement of the Day". I watched bike with a Dan Kyle installed map for the parts he had GAIN 8HP in the mid-range with a proper custom map (I think the dude might still be on this list).

There are SO may variables that an off-the-shelf map just can't deal with.
- regional fuel differences
- elevation
- average ambient temps

That's just a few of the biggies. You should also be able to tune out some of the *harshness* in the fueling with a PC3 you just need to tell the operator what you are looking for. Or.. if you like tweeking you can do it yourself. I was able to get my VFR dialed right ot where I want it in a cople of weeks of tweaking and road tests, then I sold it.. :)
 

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Baketech said:
:rotfl:

I guess I could just set my Throttlemeister at WFO, then use the kill switch as you describe. Might even get a cool flame effect like the Foggy FP-1.... :sless:
Nope, the FI would be off and no fuel would be there to 'flame' :nono:
 

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:rotfl:
 

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Baketech said:
I'd like a shorter throw on my 929....seems like there is too much. Either your wrist winds up at an odd angle, or you constantly re-grip, which is annoying....
I got a 6th turn throttle from Dan Kyle. It was made by HRC for an F4i. You'll need to get a on/off switch from an RC-51 and rewire the plug. I wrote up an artical on the rewiring of the new switch with clear pictures. But that was on the old software so it is probably lost. You REALLY have to get used to it because it's almost an on/off switch at that point. I've gotten pretty used to it so it can't be all that hard to use. ;)
 

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jerseydrew said:
get a custom map! it helps so much you have no idea. and you might squeeze a few more ponies out too...
I agree, with a custom map from a reputable tuner, you can have the power tuned to your riding style. :D
 

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Blorton said:
Thanks for the responses, I forgot to include that the bike does have a PC3 on it, along with the full Sato and appropriate map from Dan Kyle. That helped a bunch, but it seems to me that the throttle would benefit from being able to take "smaller steps".
Custom mapping - good idea. I actually bought a wide-band setup for the cage a couple of years ago, but never got around to installing it. Even though it's limited to something like 11k on the max rpm, I'm sure it would be real helpful towards getting a proper road based tune, as opposed to being strapped down in a hot dyno room. (Not having to pay someone else to do the work would be cool as well. More money for other mods.)
You mentioned you have "the appropriate map" which sounds like a generic map from another bike with the same mods as yours, which is ok but not perfect as every bike is different (yes even "identical" bikes with the same mods) A custom map for your individual bike will almost definately fix the problem you are refering to! Im not sure what this wide band setup is that you are refering to is but I wouldnt bother, The results from the Dyno room will be far more accurate! Any of the other idea's discussed such as gearing and throttle modifcations are just like putting a Bandaid on a broken leg! you are mearly treating a symptom and not rectifying the cause of the problem!
Although while on the subject of "bandaid fixes" for the time being you could try bumping you idle speed up to about 1400-1500 rpm this will make the on of throttle transition a little less noticeable although any higher than 1500 and it clunks too much when selecting first gear (from neutral). Hope this may help some ;)
 

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Try riding the tight stuff in the next higher gear. The bike won't be so twitchy and susceptible to throttle input.
 

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Red Rider said:
Try riding the tight stuff in the next higher gear. The bike won't be so twitchy and susceptible to throttle input.
Good one, I tend to "ride the touque" on the twisty stuff rather than reving out in the low gears
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Appreciate the continued responses, guys. Or mates, for you Aussies. :thumb:

Jungleboy - the wideband setup I'm talking about is essentially the same equipment the dyno people use to monitor air fuel ratio in the exhaust, only I'l have the benefit of tuning the bike in actual riding conditions with theoretically better airflow coming into the intake. We'll see, assuming I ever get off my tail/bum and actually hook it up. ;)

Regarding riding the tight stuff in a higher gear - heh, I'm already doing that.

I'll be pulling the bike apart this weekend for the 16k service, so I'll have the opportunity to try some of these fixes then.

Thanks!
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just an update, as part of the 16k valve check yesterday, I went ahead and took out the last little bit of throttle cable slack. What's strange is that once I got in there, there looked to me a lot more slack than I'd thought. Weird.

Made a nice difference in the commute this morning, but it's going to be awhile before I can test things out in the twisties. Ivan did a number on some of the choice roads around here.

Thanks for the pointers!
Dan
 
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