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My 01 929 3500miles....the clutch seems like it engages/disengages barely pulling it in,is this normal???..........And my gas seems a little tight to pull back.......I noticed the big difference when i rode my friends 03 gix1k. ...................Could there be a problem here???
 

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adjust your clutch cable, the adjusters are right next to the lever. You don't even need a tool, they turn by hand. I was just having a problem finding neutral with the engine running, it was too much slack in the cable. Maybe yours has too little.
 

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Rynz 929 : My 01 929 3500miles....the clutch seems like it engages/disengages barely pulling it in,is this normal???..........And my gas seems a little tight to pull back.......I noticed the big difference when i rode my friends 03 gix1k. ...................Could there be a problem here???
I've adjusted my clutch cable kinda tight rather than having alot of slack, pulls in about 1/3 travel (adjustment at clutch handle and clutch itself by middle right fairing). I preferred this as opposed to having slack that I'm pulling in unnecessarily, although I do find myself still pulling full travel sometimes out of habit. Unless there is some info on why this would be bad, I'll stay with that adjustment. Same with throttle, I don't like having extra slack where turning the throttle does nothing more than pick up slack before accelerating. I notice the majority of new bikes on the sales floor with alot of slack, (3/8' to 3/4'? I'm guessing here), I never understood this. Maybe someone can enlighten me on why this is the standard practice. Same with when I would get my bike back from dealer service, throttle and clutch adjusted way back out - too much for my taste.

Does your throttle seem difficult to twist? Is that what you were saying?
 

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Here's what the manual says about the amount of slack in the clutch:

 

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If you adjust the clutch to where it begins to disengage as soon as you begin to pull the lever, you will prematurely toast the friction pads, as the clutch will always be on the verge of disengagement. I have seen this on several bikes and the owners can't seem to make the correlation between their 'custom' adjustment and why they are always having to replace the clutch stack. If you don't have at least 3/16' free play before it begins to disengage, you are always wearing the plates.
 

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Yea, I probably should have made it clear that I do watch the clutch arm when adjusting the slack out - making sure I have not moved the arm, just taking as much slack up as possible.
 

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abtech : If you adjust the clutch to where it begins to disengage as soon as you begin to pull the lever, you will prematurely toast the friction pads, as the clutch will always be on the verge of disengagement.  I have seen this on several bikes and the owners can't seem to make the correlation between their 'custom' adjustment and why they are always having to replace the clutch stack.  If you don't have at least 3/16' free play before it begins to disengage, you are always wearing the plates.
 

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RE: the clutch adjustment. Keep in mind that you need some freeplay/slack. When the engine is cold--adjust the freeplay so that the you can insert a 'nickel edgewise' between the lever and the stop. Any less then that and you will glaze or prematurely end your clutch. Regarding the throttle, adjust the upper pull cable (the only one with any adjustment). I do this with the engine runnng (in netural) so that as I take the slack out--it is not so tight as to change the idle. YOu can take alot of the slack out--but again, resist the temptation to have no slack at all. When you are finished, turn the handle bar side to side (with engine running) and make sure the idle does not change.
Sugoi8
 
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