Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 20 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,
I was riding around with LucidDream57 (954) and some dude with an R1 last night. Anyway it was the first time I've ridden with Lucid since he's had a chance to get some seat time on the new bike. So we're being a little squidly (hyperlegal speeds on the highway, I was the only one in full gear though) and we're coming up to a nice long left sweeper and I look down and I'm doing an indicated 173 (stock, no speedo healer so probably in the 160s....anyway) and I'm not hanging off the bike enough to lean as much as I needed so I start grabbing brakes like no one's business (which causes it to stand up even more) cause there's a delivery truck in my lane that I'm fast approaching and the brakes give me this mushy feel (too much lever pull from when I started the ride (original fluid, a little over 3000 miles)) and I'm not slowing down fast enough and I'm starting to run wide right. Anyway, I thought I was going into the back of the truck when suddenly an exit ramp begins to the right and I was able to scoot by the truck and get back on the highway (reminded me of when I was at Summit Point - JC circuit and I came into turn 1 too hot and just ran off the course).

SOOOooooo....I need to: #1 slow down on public roadways and #2 upgrade my brakes. I already have Motul 600RBF cause I bought the Goodridge -2 lines for my F4 and never installed them. So I need pads and lines. What does everyone think about the Galfer superbike lines (the one's that are -2.8, i think, so a little better feel than -3 and not as crazy touchy as the -2's). And pads...how about the Ferodo XR's?

Also...was the mushy feel and increased lever travel caused by the lines swelling or the fluid heating up and compressing too much, or both? Oh yeah, does anyone know if Speedbleeders for an F4 will work on the RR (I have them too from the brake upgrade I never did on F4)?

Okay, sorry so long, just needed to get all that out and couldn't possibly tell the wifey about last night's festivities.

My list so far
Fluid: Motul 600RBF
Pads: Ferodo XR - okay for street and track?
Lines: Galfer Superbike
Goodridge SpeedBleeders: Can I reuse F4's (8mmx1.25) or do I need new ones? I've seen someplaces that say the 1000RR uses 7mm. Is that for the 06, or for the 04-05 too?
Master cylinder banjo bolt with bleeder: Do I need this? If so who makes it and where do I get one? Is it another SpeedBleeder?

Thanks y'all :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,804 Posts
I hate funerals. :thumbd:

The lesson that you should learn here has nothing to do with equipment. I seriously doubt anything is wrong with the brake fluid, or that one has to hang off to turn a sportbike in a sweeper. Bottom line, you were riding well beyond your abilities and the limits of your equipment in a place where you could have killed or traumatized families.

The most important piece of equipment on your bike is supposed to be your brain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sunbert

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,664 Posts
If you've really been on a racetrack, then you should know how your brakes feel at those speeds. :idunno: It's guys like you that get me up at night while I'm on duty for wash downs.....:thumbd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,390 Posts
"Wash downs", as in, the blood and brains?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,711 Posts
Charles Darwin

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Jump to: navigation, search


For other uses, see Darwin (disambiguation). In his lifetime Charles Darwin gained international fame as an influential scientist examining controversial topics.


Charles Robert Darwin (12 February 180919 April 1882) was a British naturalist who achieved lasting fame by convincing the scientific community of the occurrence of evolution and proposing the theory that this could be explained through natural and sexual selection. This theory is now considered the central explanatory paradigm in biology.
He developed an interest in natural history while studying first medicine, then theology, at university. Darwin's five-year voyage on the Beagle and subsequent writings brought him eminence as a geologist and fame as a popular author. His biological observations led him to study the transmutation of species and, in 1838, develop his theory of natural selection. Fully aware that others had been severely punished for such "heretical" ideas, he only confided in his closest friends and continued his research to meet anticipated objections. However, in 1858 the information that Alfred Russel Wallace had developed a similar theory forced early joint publication of the theory.
His 1859 book On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection, or The Preservation of Favoured Races in the Struggle for Life (usually abbreviated to The Origin of Species) established evolution by common descent as the dominant scientific explanation of diversification in nature. He was made a Fellow of the Royal Society, continued his research, and wrote a series of books on plants and animals, including humankind, notably The Descent of Man, and Selection in Relation to Sex and The Expression of the Emotions in Man and Animals. Several recent reports of a mysterious apparition resembling Darwin recount its propensity to seek out riders of sport motorcycles who are traveling at "hyper-legal" speeds and introducing an ectoplasmic "mushiness" to their brake systems.
In recognition of Darwin's pre-eminence, he was buried in Westminster Abbey, close to William Herschel and Isaac Newton.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Okay, Okay, I get it...i know better and I usually don't ride this way, but it's been too many months since the last track day and it felt good to open it up. I know..."i won't see anymore track days if i continue to ride this way."

But anyway, my reason for posting was to get info on brake upgrades, not a lecture. I already know what I did was stupid. So, under normal commuting rides the brakes are great, but last night when I was pushing it, after a while there was more lever travel than I was comfortable having. I just wanted to know if that was because the lines were swelling (i.e. I need stainless) or if the fluid was compressing (i.e. change to the Motul), or if the pads were fading (i.e. need HH pads). So if anyone has any insight on this I would greatly appreciate it. But please save me the lectures, I already have a mother and a wife. Thanks and in the future I will do my part as to not become part of one of your wash downs. Sorry for upsetting anyone. :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,568 Posts
SS lines and better fluid is always a good idea. A good and cheap(free) place to start is bleeding your brakes.

How old are your OEM pads? Have you ever changed them?

FWIW, I put HH pads, SS lines and synthetic brake fluid on my bike and the stopping power is simply unbelievable. Can't imagine what it would be like with a Brembo MC. :evilaugh:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,596 Posts
You're a phucking idiot. 173mph, indicated or not, on a public road is a death wish. You think leathers is going to save your ass at those speeds? You're a danger to me and everyone else on the road...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
Red Rider said:
You're a phucking idiot. 173mph, indicated or not, on a public road is a death wish. You think leathers is going to save your ass at those speeds? You're a danger to me and everyone else on the road...
And Ferrodo pads suck.....IMO, buy SBS ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,003 Posts
This whole story is weird to me. How many people do you know that have done multiple track days/schools/races, whatever, and then go on to ride 170mph on a public road? :huh:

What for??? It's not like it's fun or anything. Not like a track.
I just don't get it.:idunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
731 Posts
tigerblade said:
SS lines are now about one of the first things I'd put on a bike.
When I bought my blade, before I turned a wheel on it I changed the lines, pads, fluid, and mastercylinder. Couldn't imagine trying to slow that thing down with rubber lines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
564 Posts
easy people, everyone makes rash decisions from time to time, he acknowledged this in his opening statement and has already made the adjustment to not do it again. If anything it was more my fault then his, so please remember you manners......since it seems no one really cares much i'll be the first to say, i'm glad your ok ndsp80!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,596 Posts
LUCIDDREAM57 said:
......since it seems no one really cares much i'll be the first to say, i'm glad your ok ndsp80!
I think you'll find people do care...that's why they don't like hearing things like this. :twocents:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,839 Posts
I ride like a granny most of the time on the street since I have started trackdays. Sure I'll still have a "spirited" ride though the twisty but not like I used to. Sure we're glad you're ok, but geez man, there's a time and place....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,224 Posts
It was likely air/water in the fluid (built up over time)

Reasoning:
Brake line puff is a function of how hard you grab the lever (pressure) not speed. Yes stainless lines feel more sturdy but that is true at all speeds (I notice the difference on the RC and have not been anywhere near your speeds since installation)
Pad fade is usually heat induced and since the breaking was not sustained less likely also
Water in the brake fluid would be fairly fast to boil.
Air in the line would be more noticeable under sustained breaking

Slow down and change your fluid being careful to get them blead well. Then go test the improvement at the track ;)
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Top