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I drove my bike to work today for the first time. The battery on the bike was dead this morning so I jumped it and it rode just fine. When I got off work, the bike battery tried to start, fired up, and died. It then wouldn't turn over again, and the battery was dead.

I went and bought another battery, put it in, the bike fired right up and ran just fine. I drove it approximately 5 miles back home, averaging around 50mph in 3rd gear for a fair portion of the drive.

I went outside, and it fired up, but acted like the battery was low. About 10 minutes later I get to an intersection and the bike dies after I stop revving it. I back it into a parking lot, and another rider comes and helps me push start it.

When the battery is fully charged, it runs fine, but when it's low it acts like it's going to die unless I rev it up a bit. So as I'm pulling up to my house I let it idle with the clutch pulled in for a few seconds and gets fainter and fainter until it dies after a few seconds,

When I multimeter at the battery at idle, it comes out at 12.1v. When I rev it up to around 3-4k rpms the voltage jumps to 14.4.

Any ideas?
 

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It's obvious it's not charging while at idle. Search Reg/rec Stator testing to find steps on testing your charging components. I would imagine your rsv/rec is on the way out, or your stator isn't putting out enough AC volts at idle. Very, very common failure unfortunately for the 900's.
 

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here is a diagram of the charging system tests, just follow the directions n youll find your problem(s)

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/109419-stator-rectifier-concerns.html#post1176447 10 days ago.

use this chart to find the problem. it takes you thru every aspect of the charging system with easy to follow directions using a simple multi meter. you should find your problem with it. just start at the top n work your way down.

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
Deja vu? Got to love consistent answers though, and consistent results.
 

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lol this thing should be stickied. ive posted this chart about 50 times im sure. lol but im sure its helped a lot of people. nothing that isnt in the manual but its nicely put together n all in one place.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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i just have it saved in my favorites on my browser n every time someone has charging issues..... BAM! its impossible for anyone to really tell you what the problem is unless youve done these simple tests. n the tests will give you the answer. but i know if your not familiar with the system bikes use its probably pretty overwhelming. but really once you do these tests you should have a pretty good understanding of the system and in reality its usually a pretty easy thing to test for and fix even for someone without any real mechanical skills.
 

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I thought I had originally corrected the issue, and the bike ran great for nearly a week after a full charge. But suddenly it started doing this.

I found this: Amazon.com: STATOR & REGULATOR RECTIFIER HONDA CBR900RR FIREBLADE 1996-1999 Motorcycle NEW: Automotive

And it includes both. Would it be worth just picking it up and slapping them both on?
not until youve done those tests. no need to buy them if your battery just has a bad cell or maybe there is simply a bad connection, look at the wires in the connectors for corrosion or loose wires. but first get a ten dollar multi meter n do those tests. there easy n it starts with the easiest and most likely problems n works down from there. test both components before you spend money replacing them for no reason. but if you do need them you can buy them in a kit like that. the site the chart comes from also sells charging components. they are in the uk but make real good stuff so check there web site out. electrexword.com
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I work for an electrical contracting company and have a father who is an electrician, so I have all the multimeters I could ever want. The battery was just replaced today, so that eliminates that from the equation, granted, I'm now $100 lighter.
 

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if it were me and i was about to buy those components anyway i would upgrade the system to the mosfet. its a much better system and a pretty easy to do upgrade that will go a long way to keep this from happening again. not that it cant still happen but like i said its a better system n if your replacing them anyway may as well upgrade. check this link out. i know its talking about an rc51 but same parts apply to your 900

https://tinyurl.com/n3k3gzy
 

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if it were me and i was about to buy those components anyway i would upgrade the system to the mosfet. its a much better system and a pretty easy to do upgrade that will go a long way to keep this from happening again. not that it cant still happen but like i said its a better system n if your replacing them anyway may as well upgrade. check this link out. i know its talking about an rc51 but same parts apply to your 900

https://tinyurl.com/n3k3gzy
Cost-wise, what can I expect to spend?
 

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heres the kit from ebay. the r/r by its self is about 60$ there may be other kits but this is a top notch set-up. honda charging system is a bit of an Achilles heal specially on the 90's blades. this brings it up to date and will go a long way in keeping the charging system in better shape all around. the article in the link explains it pretty well and why its a better option. it is gonna cost more obviously initially nut its an investment. imo if your going to do something your better off going for the best than coming back n spending twice the time and more bread later when your r/r fails again n maybe cooks the wiring of fries the battery. this systems advantages are its much more stable in its current delivery and stays a lot cooler because it handles the heat better because of its design. the 90's blades r/r was just not the best unit n is very common as a fail point.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH020AA-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-KIT-REPLACES-FH012AA-/380704480069?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a3c15b45&vxp=mtr

this stator from ricks is commonly used as a quality part. sometimes cheap ist always the best way to go when your talking about a system that commonly fails. the price on the kit you listed wasnt bad but who knows where it was rebuilt or the quality that went into it. nothing is certain but if you throw those parts in there you can just about bet the farm itll fail again before to long. the upgrade is no guarantee it wont still of course but it brings it up to modern standards n could save you money in the long term. its what i would do if it were my bike n i had to do the work n spend the money anyway.

edited the original link to the correct FH020AA which replaces the FH012AA r/r used in the write up
 
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