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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

So basically, late last night I was riding home, and was on motorway. My bike was low on fuel, but should have been enough for the 20 mile ride. So bike ran out of petrol. When I was looking around, I saw the choke was still on, I've never done that before in 30 years but did it today. So that explains why I ran out of fuel. Having filled up again the bike will not fire at all, no spluttering, nothing, was really not expecting that, as the bike runs exceptionally well for it's age. Issues that are worth noting, is that some time ago, the reserve tap stopped working, i.e. I now fill up an am putting in about 4/5ths of the fuel I used to put in, so this does point to a blocked fuel tap, I don't want to address that issue here as I have another mint condition tank that I want to protect for ethanol and so the fuel tap will be replaced anyway, but it's information about the fuel system, I have no issue with it except that I now go 100 miles on the trip meter then fill up.

So troubleshooting so far:
Dancing blue devils:
I took off the left most plug cap and put a screwdriver in there to check for a spark, which there was, so happy that the ignition system is still fine up to plug caps. I still have not seen the plugs themselves as it's not a quick job on the 94 fireblade and I don't like to poke around without a plan in place.

Firewater:
So in the daylight I can see the fuel filter, it's clear enough to see fuel. So I shut the fuel tap to off and spun the bike over to empty some of the filter to see a level and see if it was moving also and all was fine, so fuel is moving through the fuel filter so it must be getting to the carbs.

Now I'm a bit stuck and was hoping someone may have some knowledge here that I don't have, the bike still will not run, it's as if it is permanently flooded as with fuel and a spark, I would expect a bang. If carbs were blocked I would expect at least pops and bangs at least out of the exhaust when turning the engine over. I have iridium plugs in that were new last year and cos of covid, I've only done about 1000 miles on those plugs. Is there anything else that could be the issue before I commit to nightmare that is plug removal on a 94 fireblade?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't know how to respond to that, the starter motor does not turn with the kill switch on
But to add clarification, I have kept the wiring of this bike standard, having replaced the whole loom a few years back, so the standard set up is in place, that being, kill switch cuts the starter motor cdi unit and fuelpump (though the fuel pump was disconnected when I bought it 7 years ago and was removed to save weight) the side stand switch will prevent the starter motor spinning if in gear, but pulling in the clutch will allow the bike to start and will kill the engine if the sidestand is left down when the clutch is released. Like all bikes, you can start the bike when it is on the side stand to warm it up without sitting on it.
 

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You ran the bike on choke for too long, you fouled your plugs. Throw in some new plugs, pretty sure it will solve your problem.

I have a 94 also, was in similar situation banging my head for days. Pulled plugs, cleaned them up with a wire brush, put back in, bike back fired but would not start. New plugs in, started on first crank.

Pulling plugs on a 94 is very easy, just need to remove the mid fairings. Especially easy if you still have the OEM tool kit and specific tools for plug removal still in it. Don't let weak spark fool you, put it new plugs.

Simple part of fuel and spark diagnosis. Worst case, you have new spare plugs for when they're due.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You ran the bike on choke for too long, you fouled your plugs. Throw in some new plugs, pretty sure it will solve your problem.

I have a 94 also, was in similar situation banging my head for days. Pulled plugs, cleaned them up with a wire brush, put back in, bike back fired but would not crank. New plugs in, started on first crank.

Pulling plugs on a 94 is very easy, just need to remove the mid fairings. Especially easy if you still have the OEM tool kit and specific tools for plug removal still in it. Don't let weak spark fool you, put it new plugs.

Simple part of fuel and spark diagnosis. Worst case, you have new spare plugs for when they're due.
Brilliant, this was actually what I was hoping for, this was my diagnosis, but I wanted some confirmation from someone with this experience before diving in as plug change on this thing is so time consuming when compare to older bikes where it's a simple 5 minute job. Thank you kindly sir.
 

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Brilliant, this was actually what I was hoping for, this was my diagnosis, but I wanted some confirmation from someone with this experience before diving in as plug change on this thing is so time consuming when compare to older bikes where it's a simple 5 minute job. Thank you kindly sir.
Don't thank me yet, let us know how it works out.

If you're new to wrenching just be careful not to over tighten the new plugs when you put them in, last thing you want to do is strip your cylinder head plug threads.

It's a very simple job, don't stress over it. I did happen to have my tank and airbox off last time I did the plugs as I was already down the rabbit hole diagnosing, but it shouldn't be necessary.

Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi, just wanted to update you guys as to what actually happened. So 2 years ago, on a torrential rainy day, I ran out of petrol and reserve did not work, couldn't think why at the time, but managed to fill with petrol and get home. That day, my reserve tank filled with water, we think 3 litres of it. This was the problem, once flushed out, bike ran wonderfully. So the rubber seal on the petrol cap is worn, but the main problem was the fuel cap drain hole was blocked, at the time I could not see it as it was dark, so missed it completely.
 
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