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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here's the deal. I crashed my 06 F4i about 5 months ago and have been slowly rebuilding the front end, as that was where the only physical damage was. Fast forward to today, I have new forks, tire/wheel and radiator. It was a head-on collision. Being the noob that I am, I left the battery in the bike, attached. It is now dead. I have since charged it to the point where the bike will turn over, sound as though it wants to start and then won't. I will let the bike sit for a day, come back to try and start it and it won't even turn over, as if the battery is dead again. However, when I go to charge it it shows that it's fully charged. So my question to you is. What could possibly be the result of a slowish head on collision (about 30 mph) and the affect on my bike, preventing it from starting? Assuming it's not the battery (what kind of multi-meter should I get to test), I've read it could either be the stator or rectifier/regulator. Any thoughts or experience would be extremely helpful. I do have a Haynes Service manual to help too... Thanks!
 

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So here's the deal. I crashed my 06 F4i about 5 months ago and have been slowly rebuilding the front end, as that was where the only physical damage was. Fast forward to today, I have new forks, tire/wheel and radiator. It was a head-on collision. Being the noob that I am, I left the battery in the bike, attached. It is now dead. I have since charged it to the point where the bike will turn over, sound as though it wants to start and then won't. I will let the bike sit for a day, come back to try and start it and it won't even turn over, as if the battery is dead again. However, when I go to charge it it shows that it's fully charged. So my question to you is. What could possibly be the result of a slowish head on collision (about 30 mph) and the affect on my bike, preventing it from starting? Assuming it's not the battery (what kind of multi-meter should I get to test), I've read it could either be the stator or rectifier/regulator. Any thoughts or experience would be extremely helpful. I do have a Haynes Service manual to help too... Thanks!

Five months has very likely ruined the battery. The charger is probably not showing it's fully charged, simply that it won't take any more. Measure the voltage.
Boost it with jumper leads off a car battery while you're trying to get it running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks, if it is the battery though wouldn't the bike at least be able to start? It turns over like it wants to and it sounds like the battery has the juice to do it but there's something else preventing it. Or am I totally off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, you're saying I can hook up my car battery to the bike battery and use that charge to start the bike and see if it is in fact the batteries fault? I didn't know I could do that (see, I'm a noob). Thanks!
 

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Ok thanks, if it is the battery though wouldn't the bike at least be able to start? It turns over like it wants to and it sounds like the battery has the juice to do it but there's something else preventing it. Or am I totally off?

If it turns over on the starter motor then should easily have anough power to run the fuel pump.
Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition switch on?
Is the bank angle sensor connector and mounted correctly?
 

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If you jump her from a car, don't have the car engine running. Simply connect to the positive point on the bike battery and the negative to the frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it turns over on the starter motor then should easily have anough power to run the fuel pump.
Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the ignition switch on?
Is the bank angle sensor connector and mounted correctly?
Good question, I will have to check this when I get home from work. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you jump her from a car, don't have the car engine running. Simply connect to the positive point on the bike battery and the negative to the frame
So, just to be clear and to avoid personal injury. Hook up both cables to the car battery (that is not and won't be running), then hook the positive cable to the bike battery and the negative cable to anywhere on the bike frame? Thanks.
 

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So, just to be clear and to avoid personal injury. Hook up both cables to the car battery (that is not and won't be running), then hook the positive cable to the bike battery and the negative cable to anywhere on the bike frame? Thanks.
You got it :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you jump her from a car, don't have the car engine running. Simply connect to the positive point on the bike battery and the negative to the frame
So I just tried to start the bike by hooking it up to my car and all I got out of it was that rattle noise. I am assuming that this is because my battery is dead again. Is that right? Or could it be something else? Thanks.
 

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So I just tried to start the bike by hooking it up to my car and all I got out of it was that rattle noise. I am assuming that this is because my battery is dead again. Is that right? Or could it be something else? Thanks.

Measure the voltage across the battery terminals.
Sounds like you don't have the jumper leads properly connected.
You should measure exactly the same voltage across the bike's battery terminals as you have at the car's battery.
 

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You're battery is toast. You're going to need a new one, so just go get one, and have your current one with you so they can test it under load.

Be mindful of the positive and negative posts, don't hook them backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Measure the voltage across the battery terminals.
Sounds like you don't have the jumper leads properly connected.
You should measure exactly the same voltage across the bike's battery terminals as you have at the car's battery.
Stupid question, I do this by connecting the bike with the car and then measuring the voltage of each battery to see if they're the same correct?
 

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Stupid question, I do this by connecting the bike with the car and then measuring the voltage of each battery to see if they're the same correct?

Yep.
If they're not the same you probably have a bad earth to the engine or frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yep.
If they're not the same you probably have a bad earth to the engine or frame.
Ok thy sounds like it could be a big deal. Is it just replacing te connection or is it more than that? Do you think a head on collision could cause that? Thanks.
 

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Ok thy sounds like it could be a big deal. Is it just replacing te connection or is it more than that? Do you think a head on collision could cause that? Thanks.

If the harness is not connected to the frame and engine then you will need to repair the bad connection.
It depends on the impact but certainly, a collision can cause all sorts of problems including fracturing the cells inside the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If the harness is not connected to the frame and engine then you will need to repair the bad connection.
It depends on the impact but certainly, a collision can cause all sorts of problems including fracturing the cells inside the battery.
Ok, bought a new battery, put some gas in the bike and it still doesn't start. I had to move the cables around as the connection to the new battery is vertical and more awkward that my previous one where all I had to do was screw the cables horizontally to the top of the battery. I don't think my connection is as good. How can I tell if the wiring harness is not connected to the frame? What are some of the key points to look at? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thought I'd circle back and close out this thread. Got the bike to start, runs great (or will once I refill the radiator fluid and change the oil). Turns out the headlight needs to be connected in order for the bike to start. Who knew? On whim I tried it and it worked. So now it starts right up. Now I have to take it for a test ride and make sure the changes I've made work and the bike won't fall apart...
 

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Thought I'd circle back and close out this thread. Got the bike to start, runs great (or will once I refill the radiator fluid and change the oil). Turns out the headlight needs to be connected in order for the bike to start. Who knew? On whim I tried it and it worked. So now it starts right up. Now I have to take it for a test ride and make sure the changes I've made work and the bike won't fall apart...

Is the bank angle sensor mounted on the headlight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Is the bank angle sensor mounted on the headlight?
It was, that part was broken (at the mounts) in my wreck. Since I'm not going to be using the OEM headlight anymore, I've removed the harness from it and currently have it dangling from the front, until I get a replacement set (hopefully two round headlights). With the bank angle sensor attached to the bike. Why?
 
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