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Discussion Starter #1
So iv had some front end problems but long story short I had a bent rotor and replaced it . I had opposite side caliper frozen, replaced it. I had bent forks , replaced them. Top triple replaced . Only thing left on the front end is axle and lower triple which is tweaked still. (Haven't gotten to replacing it yet)

My question is why. Would are my front brakes dragging ?

When I take the caliper off and pump the brakes they seem to be working normally, I don't get it .. Or is my tweaked lower some how throwing the axle/ wheel off ? Dosnt make sense but it's the only thing I can think of??

Any suggestions?:idunno:
 

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So iv had some front end problems but long story short I had a bent rotor and replaced it . I had opposite side caliper frozen, replaced it. I had bent forks , replaced them. Top triple replaced . Only thing left on the front end is axle and lower triple which is tweaked still. (Haven't gotten to replacing it yet)

My question is why. Would are my front brakes dragging ?

When I take the caliper off and pump the brakes they seem to be working normally, I don't get it .. Or is my tweaked lower some how throwing the axle/ wheel off ? Dosnt make sense but it's the only thing I can think of??

Any suggestions?:idunno:

Have you cleaned out the master cylinder and bled fresh fluid through the system?
What do you mean by "tweaked" exactly?
How badly bent were the forks?
Are the discs passing through the calipers parallel with them?
Have you tried loosening components to determine what is causing the binding?
Loosen a caliper, then the other caliper, then the axle nut - while spinning the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you cleaned out the master cylinder and bled fresh fluid through the system?
What do you mean by "tweaked" exactly?
How badly bent were the forks?
Are the discs passing through the calipers parallel with them?
Have you tried loosening components to determine what is causing the binding?
Loosen a caliper, then the other caliper, then the axle nut - while spinning the wheel.
The fluid is crystal clear and brand new.

By tweaked I mean the bike was wrecked prior to me getting it and the front end was pretty messed up so now with new forks and upper when your sitting on the bike with the upper centered to the gas tank and look down inbetween the headlight and upper and move back towards the tank the when the left side of the upper and lower and flushed up the right side isn't meaning the lower is still sticking forward compared to the left side. If that makes sense

In my opinion they wernt to bad but bent needless to say (and I got a chrome set :p lol)

I'm assuming they arnt parallel and that's why they are binding

Iv taken one side off and spun the wheel = dragging
Replaced that side and removed the other side = still dragging

I don't think iv done both with the axle loose though? (Sorry hard to remember as iv had the front end apart numerous times while trying to figure out the brakes and the bent suspension . But can't recall specially if I had the axle loose while the calipers were loose or off)

Hope that narrows it down?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh I'd like to also add this. Even though the right side seems to be dragging more then the left the left side caliper has to almost be forced inbetween the rotor and where it mounts to the fork, while the right side slides in and out effortlessly like it should?

Also as far as I know I have the spacers correct, with the one with the lip on the right fork and plain round one on the left side
 

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By chance did you also replace the brake pads? Reason I ask is because I have seen people replace pads and fluid only to have used too much fluid in the system not giving enough room for displacement for the thicker pads. Just another idea, I would replace lower triple and axle while you're at it, you've already repalced everyting else.
 

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i was reading on another forum about a guy that had bought some cheap ebay levers n that was his only change and when he took it out he noticed the brakes dragging a little so pulled off to check n thought everything was all good n a few miles after he continued the front brakes seized up causing him to wreck. apparently the cheap levers werent so great n caused his brakes to drag n eventually lock up. just wondering if you replaced the levers n that might be the cause of the problem? a bent triple tree will for sure bind things some but i would think itd hafta be pretty bent to cause the brakes to drag very bad. id for sure not ride it if its much at all because they will get hot n lock up on ya n thats a bad situation. brakes are not to be overlooked at all in the function department! im sure you know that but would hate to hear you get into a wreck with them not at 100%. probably not much warning to that kinda failure. also wondering how your going about setting the tire n pinch bolts to be aligned when you reassemble the front end? there is a order in which to tighten that stuff up n a way to make sure your not binding the forks and everything is free n smooth. just mention it because ive seen people not really do it the right way a lot of times n end up basically pinching the forks together slightly n binding the forks some but i doubt that alone would cause the brakes to bind much by itself but with the bent lower it could be a combination of the two. maybe take the lever off n see if its still binding? even if you didnt replace it after your wreck it might be just bent enough to not allow the master cylinder to fully release n still not be noticeable just by eye? worth checking anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
By chance did you also replace the brake pads? Reason I ask is because I have seen people replace pads and fluid only to have used too much fluid in the system not giving enough room for displacement for the thicker pads. Just another idea, I would replace lower triple and axle while you're at it, you've already repalced everyting else.
Pads on one side were replaced to pass inspection yes but the problem existed before this change
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i was reading on another forum about a guy that had bought some cheap ebay levers n that was his only change and when he took it out he noticed the brakes dragging a little so pulled off to check n thought everything was all good n a few miles after he continued the front brakes seized up causing him to wreck. apparently the cheap levers werent so great n caused his brakes to drag n eventually lock up. just wondering if you replaced the levers n that might be the cause of the problem? a bent triple tree will for sure bind things some but i would think itd hafta be pretty bent to cause the brakes to drag very bad. id for sure not ride it if its much at all because they will get hot n lock up on ya n thats a bad situation. brakes are not to be overlooked at all in the function department! im sure you know that but would hate to hear you get into a wreck with them not at 100%. probably not much warning to that kinda failure. also wondering how your going about setting the tire n pinch bolts to be aligned when you reassemble the front end? there is a order in which to tighten that stuff up n a way to make sure your not binding the forks and everything is free n smooth. just mention it because ive seen people not really do it the right way a lot of times n end up basically pinching the forks together slightly n binding the forks some but i doubt that alone would cause the brakes to bind much by itself but with the bent lower it could be a combination of the two. maybe take the lever off n see if its still binding? even if you didnt replace it after your wreck it might be just bent enough to not allow the master cylinder to fully release n still not be noticeable just by eye? worth checking anyway.

I'll check the lever out they were replaced but they do have the normal slack before pressure is applied but it it's a good suggestion

Also in response to the tightening I go lower bolt on lower triple to snug then the opposite side lower to snug then back to other side upper to snug switch sides again other upper until snug then torque in that order then the the axle the same way inner, inner then outter, outter

Like I said I'm going to replace the axle and lower (and bearings ) when I get paid on Friday but I just wanted to be sure it would fix my problem or if it could be something else...

ill take some pics in a bit but thanks for the input guys

Sounds like you'll think it's he lower and or axle as well (possibly levers but I'm going to rule that out with the slack for now at least )
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All pics are with the upper straight the one pic looking down you can see as I back up and took another pic how the lower is tweaked with the right side forward see pics

Directly over the triples ...



Moving back towards the tank, notice the right side is way more forward while the left side is flushed up...











And last but not least the beast herself :p

 

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yeah man looking at the pics its still kinda hard to tell the full extent just because you kinda lose some perspective thru any photo but its pretty easy to tell its not straight n id imagine its even worse when your actually there in person. i know from my dirt bike experience in triple trees that usually the stem gets twisted more than the actual tree gets any damage but it can for sure make getting the wheel on difficult along with other obvious problems. they usually warp in two directions not just laterally twisted but vertically also n its really hard on the bearings n at the very least binds the shocks the more they get compressed. even if its not the problem i would for sure swap that sucker out n get some bearings while your at it if you havent already. id also suggest loosening the calipers on both sides after you have the wheel correctly installed and the axle tightened everything lined up by pushing down on the triple tree a few times to make sure the forks arent binding n then tightening the pinch bolts and sfter you have the calipers loose hold the front brake in on the lever and while holding the brake lever tighten the calipers up. they do actually move around just a little on the bolts ubtil they are tightened down and holding the brake will align them while you tighten the caliper bolts down. here is just a qick video on correct tire installation. not saying your doing it wrong at all but its worth checking out...

 

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I would have opted to change the lower before changing the top. If the lower is still tweaked how did you get the replacement forks in them? I would get a new lower. Double check your spacers, and make sure all 8 of your caliper pistons return to "ready". You should see them come out a bit, then return. I see you said they seemed to be working properly but check anyway. My $$ is on the lower. It doesn't take much of a tweak to mess things up down range.
 

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just a quick suggestion as well you might wanna take the rotors off n take some emery cloth to them or even get them sand blasted to get whats left of the old brake pads offa the rotors. not sure if whats in the pic is from the new or not. not saying thats anything to do with the dragging but it will for sure affect how the new pads seat into the rotors. youll want them to be nice n shiny on both sides when you put new pads in. if it were a car it wouldnt be as crucial but you want the best outta that front brake for sure n there is a whole process to "breaking in" new pads n that left over crud will kill that one chance youve got to get it right...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would have opted to change the lower before changing the top. If the lower is still tweaked how did you get the replacement forks in them? I would get a new lower. Double check your spacers, and make sure all 8 of your caliper pistons return to "ready". You should see them come out a bit, then return. I see you said they seemed to be working properly but check anyway. My $$ is on the lower. It doesn't take much of a tweak to mess things up down range.
The upper was changed out of coincident when I got the bike it was wrecked I had no knowledge of there being front end damage. I was in the process of putting new cases on the motor and rebuilding it, while buying some nice used "chrome" parts online while in the middle of rebuilding... Just happend to find that upper and bought it... Not knowing my forks and lower were bent at the time
 

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Discussion Starter #14
just a quick suggestion as well you might wanna take the rotors off n take some emery cloth to them or even get them sand blasted to get whats left of the old brake pads offa the rotors. not sure if whats in the pic is from the new or not. not saying thats anything to do with the dragging but it will for sure affect how the new pads seat into the rotors. youll want them to be nice n shiny on both sides when you put new pads in. if it were a car it wouldnt be as crucial but you want the best outta that front brake for sure n there is a whole process to "breaking in" new pads n that left over crud will kill that one chance youve got to get it right...
Thanks for the suggestion I wouldn't of probably done that with the rotors but makes sense to do so now that y mentioned it... Yes the marks on the rotors are all new (with in few hundred miles) I guess after it was dropped before it wasn't really ridden bc the rotors stuck always from the day I bought it but I knew one of them was bent so kind if just ruled it as that as I pushed it into the truck, but both rotors were not worn like they are now, iv literally put under 400 miles on this bike since I only got it tagged mid May and the rotors now look like hell

Don't worry iv got my eye on a set of chrome rotors online but ill for sure have to clean mine up in the mean time ( have to stop Spending money on this thing that I don't need to spend for a little while lol)
 

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The upper was changed out of coincident when I got the bike it was wrecked I had no knowledge of there being front end damage. I was in the process of putting new cases on the motor and rebuilding it, while buying some nice used "chrome" parts online while in the middle of rebuilding... Just happend to find that upper and bought it... Not knowing my forks and lower were bent at the time
That makes sense. If everything else is good and the lower is known to be tweaked, odds are a new lower (or used straight one) will do the trick. Sucks that you have to keep tossing money at it. Keep us up on what the fix is.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That makes sense. If everything else is good and the lower is known to be tweaked, odds are a new lower (or used straight one) will do the trick. Sucks that you have to keep tossing money at it. Keep us up on what the fix is.
Yeah pure coincidence, iv owned this 954 since November and rode it for the first time in May so that's when I started realizing I have front end issues...

I was hoping every one would say the lower and or axle were probably the issue like you said it Sucks spending money on things and it not fix the problem that's why I asked on here VS. just buying new ones and still have dragging brakes !

Well like I said and most members here have replied, I might as well change the axle and triple since everything else has been and the triple is known bent

Come on payday!
 

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yeah my money is on the lower as well. itd be my first buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yeah my money is on the lower as well. itd be my first buy.
Awesome . I wasn't too sure if that would be the cause for sure sense it mounts in the upper u would think that would mean its straight enough to line up the brakes but iv never dealt with a bent triple before ... I'd think it was more lodgical for the axle to be bent but whatever .. It dosnt have to make sense as long as it fixes it lol

I'm going I get new bearings while I'm at it, I checked mine out and the cups wernt to worn but better to do it while it's apart I guess it's worth the 30 bucks
And Im Going I get an axle too. I'll have it off anyway. Plus im watching one on eBay from a trusted seller iv used in the past and they say it's straight (plus it's like 12 bucks lol) really hope this solves the problem so I can actually start to ride this more

Plus I want to move on to new fork springs and seals but before I do that I want the front to mechanically correct (minus leaky seals) and then I'm done spending money on this for at least this year !! Iv put a lot into this sense November lol
 

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i feel ya man! ive dropped a good chunk of cash this year all together too! 4 on the bike n it needed a fuel pump n fuel pressure regulator all the fluids changed a hot bodies undertail 2 new road pilot 3's a new battery 500$ of gear two old tickets 7% taxes n tags n title n registration n on n on n on! lol ive gotta get the 1.0 springs myself and a pipe but thats it for this year! ill tell you what tho, the best money ive spent in years.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ha. It's not computation but I hear that 550 on tags, inspection, rear pilot 1 , insurance down payment , 1 set of front pads for inspection. Then

Stretch bolts , bearings , new cases , new cam chain, used head (first head broke a valve retainer 10 mins after startup/rebuild )

Full yoshi pipe, pc3 , k and n tune up kit , new plastics , a rotor, a caliper and new gauges

Chrome windscreen , chrome mirrors,chrome bar ends , chrome forks , chrome upper tree, chrome rear sets/ heel guards/ sift and brake levers and shift linkage (then swapped chrome peg for red ones),chrome rear pegs and brackets (red pegs to match front and sliders to come ) chrome kickstand , chrome swing arm , chrome swing arm mount , Chrome front and rear chain guards (it came with chrome wheels though, so I can't take credit for those lol)

But yeah.. A lot of money since November trust me I can't wait until I can ACTUALLY ride it,

On another note I'm planning on going with the 110s as I'm border line 100-110 springs but since I plan on getting REAL gear I figure the 110s would be better and the seals are blown on this chrome set. but again that's NEXT PAY (if these brakes straighten out after new triple and axle )

Any body else have anything to add feel free but looks like I won't have an update until mid next week (won't get ordered until Friday and then shipping + actually not to hot to put on the triple/bearings and axle )

thanks every one and thanks in advance to future responses..
 
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