sl954 said:I just ordered some Galfer front SS lines, can someone tell me where I can order a double banjo bolt with a bleeder?
When installing a 2-line kit you get a double(legnth) banjo bolt. While the system is open it is good to install a banjo bolt with a bleeder in it, it just makes life easier. The trick thing to do is get a stainless steel one, not an aluminum one. Since you are compressing 2 banjo ends and 3 crush washers, the steel bolt is much stronger and you won't strip the threads while bleeding it!colryn said:What is a double banjo bolt with a bleeder? :idunno:
I just installed Galfers. Did I forget to install something important? :huh:
HondaGalToo said:Did you receive the Galfers yet? For awhile they were including the double banjo bolt for the master cylinder with the front lines. If you've aready gotten them and it's not in there, then what ccwilli said...
:wstupid: :thumb:CBRBob said:When installing a 2-line kit you get a double(legnth) banjo bolt. While the system is open it is good to install a banjo bolt with a bleeder in it, it just makes life easier. The trick thing to do is get a stainless steel one, not an aluminum one. Since you are compressing 2 banjo ends and 3 crush washers, the steel bolt is much stronger and you won't strip the threads while bleeding it!
Yup, you got it! :thumb: No need for one on the back line! It gets bled well enough without it. Besides, who uses the rear brake anyway?colryn said:HG2: I did recieve and install the lines last week. I ordered them from Dan Kyle. Thanks to CBRBob's picture, I know what it is now. And yes, that part was included with my lines. One of those was not included for the rear line though. I guesss the back does not need one since it is a single line configuration :idunno:
How does it make it easier? It seems the best way to bleed brakes would be to bleed each side seperately.
O.K. I get it. I just read another thread where abtech explains the method of using a banjo bolt to bleed the brakes. I think I will go home today and re-bleed using this technique.
I knew there was a reason I joined this forum. The wealth of knowledge of the org members. Thanks to all.... Yoy people are the best. :thumb:
Here is one of them:sl954 said:I have not recieved them yet, maybe I'll wait until they come in.
Abtech, is there a link to your "wordy" discription on bleeding brakes? I would be interested in reading it.
Originally Posted by Venom
One little trick that i was told about a year ago, Is when you think you have just about all the air out. But you still just a little mush when you first start to squeze the lever.
Take a piece of velcro, Squeze the lever pretty hard, Wrap the velcro around the lever. So that the velcro keeps presure on the lever. And let it sit over night. Wile it sits over night the last little bit of air get adsorbed in to the fluid. In the morning grab the lever , Take the velcro off,( or what ever you used to tye the lever back) And relesase the lever slowly.
I know it sounds like a load of B/S. And i thought the same thing till i tryed it. And sure enought that little last bit was/is gone. I frist tryed that my self when i put SS brake lines one my 12. Getting that last bit of air out of the banjo bolt was driveing me nuts. So i thought i would give it a try and sleep on it. Need less to say i was a verry happy camper the next day.
HondaGalToo said:......Besides, who uses the rear brake anyway?
MSF does teach you to use both at the same time. However, they also insist (or at least they used to) that you use all 4 fingers to brake.colryn said:Now, maybe this is a threadjack, but I use my rear brake quite frequently. Am I alone on this? I though the proper braking technique was to apply pressure to both the front and rear brake evenly. Am I just a newbie or did I miss something? They even teach this in the MSF course. Please correct me if I am wrong.