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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered some Galfer front SS lines, can someone tell me where I can order a double banjo bolt with a bleeder?
Thanks!
Steve
 

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sl954 said:
I just ordered some Galfer front SS lines, can someone tell me where I can order a double banjo bolt with a bleeder?
Thanks!
Steve
Street & Comp or LP.
 

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sl954 said:
I just ordered some Galfer front SS lines, can someone tell me where I can order a double banjo bolt with a bleeder?
Thanks!
Steve

What is a double banjo bolt with a bleeder? :idunno:

I just installed Galfers. Did I forget to install something important? :huh:
 

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Did you receive the Galfers yet? For awhile they were including the double banjo bolt for the master cylinder with the front lines. If you've aready gotten them and it's not in there, then what ccwilli said...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have not recieved them yet, maybe I'll wait until they come in.
Abtech, is there a link to your "wordy" discription on bleeding brakes? I would be interested in reading it.

Thanks
 

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colryn said:
What is a double banjo bolt with a bleeder? :idunno:
I just installed Galfers. Did I forget to install something important? :huh:
When installing a 2-line kit you get a double(legnth) banjo bolt. While the system is open it is good to install a banjo bolt with a bleeder in it, it just makes life easier. The trick thing to do is get a stainless steel one, not an aluminum one. Since you are compressing 2 banjo ends and 3 crush washers, the steel bolt is much stronger and you won't strip the threads while bleeding it!
 

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HondaGalToo said:
Did you receive the Galfers yet? For awhile they were including the double banjo bolt for the master cylinder with the front lines. If you've aready gotten them and it's not in there, then what ccwilli said...

HG2: I did recieve and install the lines last week. I ordered them from Dan Kyle. Thanks to CBRBob's picture, I know what it is now. And yes, that part was included with my lines. One of those was not included for the rear line though. I guesss the back does not need one since it is a single line configuration :idunno:

How does it make it easier? It seems the best way to bleed brakes would be to bleed each side seperately.

O.K. I get it. I just read another thread where abtech explains the method of using a banjo bolt to bleed the brakes. I think I will go home today and re-bleed using this technique.

I knew there was a reason I joined this forum. The wealth of knowledge of the org members. Thanks to all.... Yoy people are the best. :thumb:
 

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CBRBob said:
When installing a 2-line kit you get a double(legnth) banjo bolt. While the system is open it is good to install a banjo bolt with a bleeder in it, it just makes life easier. The trick thing to do is get a stainless steel one, not an aluminum one. Since you are compressing 2 banjo ends and 3 crush washers, the steel bolt is much stronger and you won't strip the threads while bleeding it!
:wstupid: :thumb:
 

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colryn said:
HG2: I did recieve and install the lines last week. I ordered them from Dan Kyle. Thanks to CBRBob's picture, I know what it is now. And yes, that part was included with my lines. One of those was not included for the rear line though. I guesss the back does not need one since it is a single line configuration :idunno:

How does it make it easier? It seems the best way to bleed brakes would be to bleed each side seperately.

O.K. I get it. I just read another thread where abtech explains the method of using a banjo bolt to bleed the brakes. I think I will go home today and re-bleed using this technique.

I knew there was a reason I joined this forum. The wealth of knowledge of the org members. Thanks to all.... Yoy people are the best. :thumb:
Yup, you got it! :thumb: No need for one on the back line! It gets bled well enough without it. Besides, who uses the rear brake anyway? :D
 

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sl954 said:
I have not recieved them yet, maybe I'll wait until they come in.
Abtech, is there a link to your "wordy" discription on bleeding brakes? I would be interested in reading it.

Thanks
Here is one of them:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Venom
One little trick that i was told about a year ago, Is when you think you have just about all the air out. But you still just a little mush when you first start to squeze the lever.

Take a piece of velcro, Squeze the lever pretty hard, Wrap the velcro around the lever. So that the velcro keeps presure on the lever. And let it sit over night. Wile it sits over night the last little bit of air get adsorbed in to the fluid. In the morning grab the lever , Take the velcro off,( or what ever you used to tye the lever back) And relesase the lever slowly.


I know it sounds like a load of B/S. And i thought the same thing till i tryed it. And sure enought that little last bit was/is gone. I frist tryed that my self when i put SS brake lines one my 12. Getting that last bit of air out of the banjo bolt was driveing me nuts. So i thought i would give it a try and sleep on it. Need less to say i was a verry happy camper the next day.

This is really just a bandaid, as the air and fluid will seperate in a short period of time leaving the brakes just like they were before.

Here is the way we do it and it works period.

First, if you have a MityVac, find the box it came in, place it back inside along with the instructions and return it to the place you purchased it. With less than half of that money in your pocket, order a bleeder banjo bolt for the master cyclinder and install it before you begin.

Put the bike on a race stand, so it's relatively level (side to side).

I suggest buying a set of Speedbleeders to make this simple job even easier. If you don't have the Speedbleeders, then just get an 8 mm open end wrench, about 2 to 2.5 feet of clear plastic hose and an empty coffee can.

Pull off the rubber caps on the bleeders (doing one side at a time) and place the clear hose over the nipple and the other end into the can.

Remove the top of the reservoir and top it off with fresh Motul 600 DOT 4 racing fluid.

Pump the lever a few times until you get some serious resistance and then while applying pressure on the lever, open the nipple with the 8 mm wrench about 1/4 turn and as the lever begins to move, tighten it back up.

Repeat this last step until you no longer see any air bubbles in the clear tubing. Note you will have to keep an eye on the reservoir level to make certain you ALWAYS have plenty of fluid.

Once you no longer see any bubbles, move to the other caliper and repeat.

Let the brakes sit for about 5 minutes and then repeat the bleeding operation.

Now take the handle of a large screwdriver and start tapping on the brake line (again one side at a time) beginning at the caliper and slowly moving upward toward the master cylinder. If you have the stock lines, then make certain you carefully tap both sides of the junction and then follow it up to the master cylinder.

Again let the brakes sit for about 5 minutes and then move your clear plastic tubing to the bleeder bolt at the master cylinder and using the same technique, bleed this nipple until there are no air bubbles in the tubing.

This last step is the most important, as the air bubbles always travel up to the top of the lines (as well as get stuck in the T junction on stock systems). I have heard so many people tell me they have bled the brakes 10 or more times and the brakes are still squishy and then they go out and buy a MityVac and go through a couple of quarts of brake fluid and still have crap for brakes. Everyone that says they have "totally" bled the brakes (but didn't do the master cylinder) has always had a ton of air in the top of the lines and are amazed when they see even more bubbles come out of their supposedly "airless" system.
 

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Select, copy, paste, print.

Thanks for the inportant info. I will do this once I get home this evening. I will make sure I keep this for future reference.
 

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HondaGalToo said:
Yup, you got it! :thumb: No need for one on the back line! It gets bled well enough without it. Besides, who uses the rear brake anyway? :D
Bigduhh uses them all the time . . . :rotfl:
 

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HondaGalToo said:
......Besides, who uses the rear brake anyway? :D

Now, maybe this is a threadjack, but I use my rear brake quite frequently. Am I alone on this? I though the proper braking technique was to apply pressure to both the front and rear brake evenly. Am I just a newbie or did I miss something? They even teach this in the MSF course. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 

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colryn said:
Now, maybe this is a threadjack, but I use my rear brake quite frequently. Am I alone on this? I though the proper braking technique was to apply pressure to both the front and rear brake evenly. Am I just a newbie or did I miss something? They even teach this in the MSF course. Please correct me if I am wrong.
MSF does teach you to use both at the same time. However, they also insist (or at least they used to) that you use all 4 fingers to brake. :p
On the track where you're braking hard, or on the street in a panic situation, the rear brake can get you into trouble very quickly. As the weight is transferred to the front during braking, it becomes all too easy to lock the rear wheel which can lead to a highside.
 

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Thanks to Abtech, HF2, and CBRBob,

last night I bled my brakes again but used the method Abtech posted. It did a fantastic job!!!!! :thumb: :clap:

When I did this last week, I used one of those Craftsman brake bleeding pumps when I installed the lines. I thought it did a pretty good job. However, last night when I used Abtechs method, I was amazed at the HUGE bubbles that were still in the system from my previous attempt. The banjo bolt cam in handy when bleeding the top of the system.

Thanks once again for the .org for getting me squared away on bike maintainance. :)
 
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