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Hey guys, I recently did the dumbest thing possible and tried to unload my 954 off a trailer by tipping it up and letting it roll back. The tire jumped out of the track before I could grab it and it flipped off the trailer. It landed on the right side, pretty much right on the brake lever. The frame slider took part of the hit as did the bar end but the brake lever was bent. It was far enough over that the brake fluid was towards the top of the cup. I added fluid, bled the brakes really well and tried them out. Brakes work fine when sitting still but once the bike starts moving they immediately lose pressure. They will still engage almost at the end of the range of motion. Or you can pump them a couple times and build pressure back up.
I found a forum on here that said master cylinder was probably knicked up and that should be replaced, bough an OEM rebuild kit and rebuilt is last weekend. I had high hopes this would fix it. Bled the brakes again until absolutely no air was left in there and got on the bike.. Similar symptoms but the brakes engage just a little bit sooner. But absolutely nowhere near where they were before the bike took a fall. I’m wondering if huge immediate pressure on the brake lines could cause them to stretch out.. They are 12 years old now and are the original lines. I just though since the bike fell basically on the lever there was a chance the brake lines took a beating.
I did a pretty long search and only found one forum of a guy having the same problem and everyone said master cylinder. Any ideas what else this could be? Maybe air is caught somewhere and my bleeding techniques aren’t quite cutting it?
 

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odd that after tipping over the brakes don't work, could the lever have got jammed back into the master an bent something? look for holes in the lines make sure bleeders are tight etc. air is always a possibility I use a vacuum bleeder to get the air and bleed by hand after that. lines that are rubber do stretch over time giving a spongy feeling changing to steel braided lines might give you the snap back your looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
odd that after tipping over the brakes don't work, could the lever have got jammed back into the master an bent something? look for holes in the lines make sure bleeders are tight etc. air is always a possibility I use a vacuum bleeder to get the air and bleed by hand after that. lines that are rubber do stretch over time giving a spongy feeling changing to steel braided lines might give you the snap back your looking for.
Thanks for the help. The rotor ended up being bent. At least I know with my new master rebuild kit I won't have to deal with that ever again!

You bent your rotor dude.
Yeah this is exactly right. Friend at work told me to get the front wheel up and check it and its bent quite a bit. Trying to find a replacement now. Not sure if I should spend the 180 and get a new upgraded pair or if I should just buy a used one on ebay for 60 bucks.
 

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If you're into the fake bling factor then 180, if you just want to ride then the 60. Both have the potential to be warped so to me it does not matter. I purchased cheap 180 rotors from eBay that were warped and with buying a used item which likely came from a crashed bike the rotors could be bent slightly as well. The only way you'll find out is after they are on and you feel that wobble up front while braking.

Both are great buys and many people have had great success, as have I. Just know that there is a chance of a problem with these two options that may take a little longer to fix compared to if you ran into a problem with a well known product name or new OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you're into the fake bling factor then 180, if you just want to ride then the 60. Both have the potential to be warped so to me it does not matter. I purchased cheap 180 rotors from eBay that were warped and with buying a used item which likely came from a crashed bike the rotors could be bent slightly as well. The only way you'll find out is after they are on and you feel that wobble up front while braking.

Both are great buys and many people have had great success, as have I. Just know that there is a chance of a problem with these two options that may take a little longer to fix compared to if you ran into a problem with a well known product name or new OEM.
Good call. I don't need a bling factor.. I'll get the used ones and if they are really bad they will be returned to the seller. Thanks for the info. I was really skeptical about the Chinese ones.
 

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will rim repair straightens bent rotors for like 20$. guaranteed to be staighter than oem specs. you pay shipping. the turnaround depends on his work load but ive used him to straighten a rim that was bent bad after a get off. just another option.

if you take your time you can usually find seller on ebay for such items that will say guaranteed straight which usually means they took the time to check it. just look for a high seller rating and a good return policy just in case.
 
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