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Bringing a legend back to stock

26K views 311 replies 14 participants last post by  Duncan893 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everybody


Last week I got my Fireblade from 1993 bought in Germany and transported to Denmark.


The bike has always been my childhood dream, but the timing for a project has never been there before now.
I am 38 years old, and have to boys at 3 and 7, and because of the age they are now, I can finally get the time to work on my childhood dream. No more diapers, no more they cant sleep in the evening and no more helping them on the loop - Freedom = Fireblade :)


I am thinking ill make this thread so I can keep track off my process, and show you guys how its going, and also ask for help.


This is the bike now:
[/IMG]


And this is how it shall end up:
[/IMG]


So my checklist so far is:
New decals
Paint all the fairings, and they are original and in good shape
Paint tank and front fender
New original blinkers
The muffler is the original where the black paint has been stripped, it need to be painted again
Clear windbreaker
All the parts that can be polished are going to be polished
Clutch cover ect. has to be painted, anyone now the name af that color? (looks like gunmetal og antrazit)
Bottom of the forks need to be painted
Wheels painted
New rear seat in purple


Service that need to be done:
New oil and filter
Drain and flush cooling system and new fluid
All cables need to be lubed
New oil and seals in forks
New tires
Carburators get an overhaul and calibrated
Valve clearence is being cheked
New bearings on the wheels and in the steering
Speedometer opened up and cleaned
New batteri (don't now what type yet)


So the list is long, but I have Haynes and the officiel repair manual for the bike, so I can't wait.
Winter is coming - in this case its a good thing.


If I miss something please let me know.


Have a good one.


Br.
Allan
Copenhagen / Denmark
 
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#7 ·
Nah, not yet. Tomorrow is the last day on trial plates, and the disassembly begins.
I got an e-mail from The Image Works, and they can make my decals. The only thing I need to figure out is if the decals have to be above the clear coat or under. The company gives me two different prices for under or over (over is more expensive). I want them as they are original, and that is above - right?
 
#8 · (Edited)
#16 ·
All good solutions :thumb:.

As discussed on another thread, I've welded bobbin lugs onto my swingarm to provide secure mounting for a standard V paddock stand for daily maintenance.

For more serious maintenance, that also enables swingarm removal:

I bought some solid pegs for a tenna from eBay and modified them to fit.

Then bought a pair of these, but could have gone Harris:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcyc...297959?hash=item2ad623d127:g:6i0AAOSwJ-ldStZR

I had to modify these stands to work = cut the main tubes down a bit. I think they were designed for race height rearsets and/or a paddock stand that lifted the bike much higher than mine. But, now, they work very well.
 

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#28 ·
The company who is going to deliver the decals said, that he would clear coat above the stickers, but original the sticker was above.
If I look beside what’s the most sane thing to do, what would be the right move here regarding originality and resale value?

I am leaning towards originality.
 
#29 ·
I prefer the protection of the decals over originality.

A restoration will never be an 'original' so my view is to restore it in a manner that will be preserved as best as possible. If I were buying a restored bike - and I have done so - the difference between lacquered or unlacquered decals would not sway me.

I accept that some will disagree and prefer originality to the letter.:wink
 
#30 ·
I completely agree with Nigel. ?

Original fuel tank decals are under lacquer.
And, the Quality of the finish is (IMHO) far better with lacquer on top.
By choice, that is how I would have any panels repaired/finished.
If someone had done that to a restoration, I would prefer it.

And, you don't get that white line of polish around every decal when cleaning ?
 
#53 ·
Hi mate, I'm looking at clearly the white and purple one or the black/orange/purple version. Both 93 models because I love the twin headlight.

I don't like to post the actual ones I'm looking at :)

I would like it to be a full OCD resto :)

But I won't distract anymore from the OPs thread.
 
#51 ·
Next step - complete overhaul of the carburettors.

I am thinking about buying this repair kit:
https://www.cmc-parts.be/japanese-m...-carburator/cbr900rr-sc28--year-92-95-k1605hk

Any feedback on this?

I will separate all the carburettors, so I want to clean them, and I have seen on youtube, some carburettor cleaning buckets, but can't get that in Denmark, or Europe I think. Maybe its to harsh a product :)
https://www.autozone.com/fuel-and-e...-dip-carburetor-parts-cleaner-96oz/139313_0_0

Then I am thinking about ultrasonic cleaning, that might work great.

Well looking forward to your help, guys - really loving this forum and helpful everybody are.

The bikes is coming apart nicely, Ill hope I can get it back togehter, haha
 
#54 ·
Hello Okyo, I've just refreshed 2 sets of RR-P Carbs.

That Carb kit should be good. The trumpet air seals are missing, but they don't see petrol so seem to be OK, I re-used mine.

I bought an Ultrasonic cleaner and U/S Carb cleaning fluid (1:10 with water) and the results are very, very good (IMHO, I am an amateur). Cleaned Carb and pre-cleaned Carb in attached picture.

The only "challenge" that I had was disassembling the 4 carbs from each other. It happened with both sets of Carbs and I have read that it is a known issue. They are held together by 2 full width rods - 5 & 6mm (?) - with a nut on each end. The hole and the lower tie rod - from memory the smaller 5 mm diameter - becomes corroded and the joints are a serious PITB to separate. When I re-assembled, I bought some rods that were in better condition and lubed it all. I also bought some stainless bar to make my own tie-rods .....

Balancing the carbs was required, but now it runs like a turbine.

It is a very satisfying job to do, so good luck and have fun!
 

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#66 ·
Allright wiseguys, what to do here.

[/IMG]


I want to fresh up these contacts, and it’s all plastic.
The red kill switch can it be painted and how?
The white text in the kill switch is moulded in the button, so it’s easy to brush it up with white paint.
What about the housings, how should they be done?

The light, signals and horn is a much tougher job, the text is just white paint, how do I paint the housing and keep the text.

The housing colour is it matte black, grey or a third option?

A completly other question, is how do i get these nut loose, I cant get it off, and the locking mecanism, I cant seem to get off either.
[/IMG]

I am looking forward to all your good ideas.

Have a good one.
 
#70 ·
..... and the locking mechanism, I cant seem to get off either.
Based upon experience with my XX, the lock mechanism is fixed into the underside of the top yoke using 2 single use (!!!) Torx screws.

From memory, they are soft material (or something) as a 'security measure'?

I completely damaged them before I consulted Professor Google and found out. From memory, I drilled the heads off, removed the lock and took the threaded shanks out with pliers. :devil

So, you are likely to need new ones.

Up to you if you replace them with OE-style "security" bolts or normal ones. I went for Honda OE on the XX.
 
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