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Discussion Starter #1
Does cracking oup the throttle for wheelies, making a gap, coming out of a bend hard really stretch the cam chain over a period of time??

Mine is literally hanging out of the engine now & I should really get a new one.
 

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I would say it has very little or no effect. Turning a camshaft always has a load unlike your drive chain. How are your cam chain guides and tensioner? Unless it's a high miler, cam chains last quite well
 

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I would say very little effect. While it always has a load, you are going from one speed to another and it would induce a bit of stretching; albeit minimal over the life of the cam chain.
 

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I think you need to look up the word "literally" in the dictionary :)
Unlike the drive chain the camchain (and oil pump drive chain) are sealed against dirt and other crap and liberally soaked in clean engine oil all the time.
Riding the engine hard, like circuit racing for example, is going to wear everything faster than normal road use but I doubt the difference is significant.
The camchain should probably be replaced every 50,000kms or so but even 100,000kms is probably a not unreasonable life for a camchain in a road bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok so its actually hanging out of the bike but it seems very worn. I put a new CCT in a while ago (at 100,000km) & it did nothing for the noise. The new CCT is already fully wound out & obviuosly doing squat now. You can hear something rattling around in the engine & the frequency of the rattle changes with revs. When downshifting from high revs you can hear a spray can rattle in the midrange & then a 'clakka clakka' lower down like the drive chain slapping off the swingarm when the rear wheel locks up.

See this post for more details.
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/68583-how-much-will-out-spec-cam-chain-affect-performance.html#post716797
 

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100,000kms on the original chain?
I'm not surprised replacing the tensioner didn't help.
You need to replace the chain I reckon.
 

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Yes bladeracer is right, its a similar scenario to changing the drive chain and sprockets, you need to do both at the same time, get a new camchain before you hit trouble, as it sounds like you are getting a bit too close to it!
 

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Does anyone know if theres a spec for how much the cam chain can stretch? Can't find anything about a service limit in my Honda service manual, but I know in my friends service manual for his Kawasaki it gives a certain length that 21 links of the chain should be. I was just wondering if there was any sort of measurement like that for the 954?
 

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Does anyone know if theres a spec for how much the cam chain can stretch? Can't find anything about a service limit in my Honda service manual, but I know in my friends service manual for his Kawasaki it gives a certain length that 21 links of the chain should be. I was just wondering if there was any sort of measurement like that for the 954?
The specs would be the same.
1% over stock would be well worn.
 

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so if I suspect my cam chain is stretched at all I should replace it? My 954 has around 28,500 miles on it, maybe its time for a new one?
 

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so if I suspect my cam chain is stretched at all I should replace it? My 954 has around 28,500 miles on it, maybe its time for a new one?
Remove the bolts on the camchain tensioner and allow it to fully extend, then press it back in against the chain and see how much gap you have between the tensioner and the engine - more than 2-3mm should be fine.
You'll need a small screwdriver to wind the tensioner back in before reinstalling it.

That is not high mileage at all, why do you suspect it might be worn out?
 

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I'm more or less trying to rule out a stretched cam chain in my search for what's causing my start up tick. I put a new OEM tensioner in after someone suggested that may be the problem, but nothing changed. I know when I took the bolts out of the old tensioner it pushed back off the engine, so I think I can rule out anything with the cam chain/tensioner. Its hard to pin point the tick, but its definately top end area. Only happens on cold starts and goes away around 100 degrees F. Valve clearances are in spec but I may be pulling the head this winter to investigate valves, guides, seals, springs etc. I remember you suggested piston slap before, but ive had a few mechanics listen to my start up tick and they all say it doesnt sound like piston slap. Mind you none of them had any other ideas as to what the noise was...
 

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I'm more or less trying to rule out a stretched cam chain in my search for what's causing my start up tick. I put a new OEM tensioner in after someone suggested that may be the problem, but nothing changed. I know when I took the bolts out of the old tensioner it pushed back off the engine, so I think I can rule out anything with the cam chain/tensioner. Its hard to pin point the tick, but its definately top end area. Only happens on cold starts and goes away around 100 degrees F. Valve clearances are in spec but I may be pulling the head this winter to investigate valves, guides, seals, springs etc. I remember you suggested piston slap before, but ive had a few mechanics listen to my start up tick and they all say its not piston slap. Mind you none of them had any other ideas as to what the noise was...

If it's only when cold its probably just the oil being pumped back through the engine after draining back to the sump. I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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Ok, this is getting confusing. King Doom with a thread on CCT's and King Kenny with a thread on cam chains. I looked at this thread 'cause I thoght I was going to get to chat with Kenny Roberts...
 

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Ok, this is getting confusing. King Doom with a thread on CCT's and King Kenny with a thread on cam chains. I looked at this thread 'cause I thoght I was going to get to chat with Kenny Roberts...
:rotfl: Next one will be a guy named KRJR looking for info on cam gears?:idunno:
 

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i seem to keep needing to wind my manual CCT in a bit more to get rid of the rattle, perhaps my chain (40K miles, so well over 50K kms) is stretched too far. didn't realize it has a 50K km life but makes sense. I have another winter project now, woohoo! should also check my valve clearances while i have things apart.
 

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It's been my experience, worn chains fail to hold an adjustment for long, the pins are just worn to the point you could break it soon on an aggressive run, and like sprocket chains, they stretch faster when they're well seasoned. Bravo for upgrading to the manual tensioner! I did on my ZRX1200R and got 44,000 miles out of it before finally selling it last week, but there was more room to go still. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181265194699?lpid=82
I'm inclined to perhaps get a VFR with gear drive for a change.
 
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