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Well, sick of that knocking sound, starts as a tap, then after a while turns into a knock. Well so did I. I checked the forum, youtube and google. Turns out to be the Cam Chain Tensioner. I have the factory spring tensioner on my CBR 919. Firstly I unscrewed the cover bolt, to reveal a internal screw I then get get a screw driver into it, you have to turn clockwise to close and anti clockwise to open. When you close it springs back to open, so I gave it another quarter turn anti clockwise. It worked for 10 minutes then she started knocking again. So I purchased Honda genuine part $90AU. It only took 30 minutes to replace the tensioner. You do have to take off the bottom and both side fairings, then remove on the right side the bracket that holds the centre fairing. Use an alan key to remove bolts that secure to crank case and some pliers for force. I used some silicon on gasket and then locked the tensioner closed with tool provided, then did up fasteners 1.2KG of force not much so just used pliers. Then replace cap bolt and washer and done.

Started bike, no knocking. Hoorah, I will let you know after ride if all good.

I have attached photo of old tensioner, I can only assume that the internal crank, wears and does not push the pin out far enough when open to apply force on the cam chain guards.

Drybo
 

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I have the same issue and I'm going with a manual tensioner. Never done any mayor thing on my bike. Any Pros and Cons with manual cam chain tensioners??
 

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I have the same issue and I'm going with a manual tensioner. Never done any mayor thing on my bike. Any Pros and Cons with manual cam chain tensioners??

a couple pros with the manual unit are its cheaper, and can be adjusted.

a couple cons are depending on the bike it can be a real pita to not only install but adjust. on my 954 i had to pull the throttle bodies to get it on which i would have had to do even if replacing it with an automatic unit.

then adjusting it was a small miracle going in thru the far side. just not much room to get to it with a wrench.

another con is the only real way to know its adjusted perfectly is by taking the valve cover off and checking tension between the 2 cams as the tensioner is tightened. most just do it based on a combination of feel and sound without removing the valve cover. this can be a pretty tough thing to do and feel 100% confident youve got it where it needs to be.

its not real uncommon for the locking nut to back off allowing the adjuster rod to also loosen and obviously that can be catastrophic. if it either loosens itself this way or you fail to have it tight enough when your adjusting it the timing chain can jump the cam gears letting valves smash into pistons and cause all kinds of serious damage.

tightening it too much will cause the cam chain guide to wear fast and replacing that isnt a quick fix.

just some stuff to keep in mind. personally after a members recent misfortune after he installed the ape cct on his 954 and it became loose n did just what i described to his engine, i switched mine back to the automatic oem cct for peace of mind.

it was hard to get a feel adjusting it on the 954 and since you had to be on the opposite side of the bike with your arm crammed all the way up between the frame and transmission to adjust it it made it kinda hard to really listen and use sound as a indicator of it being properly adjusted. some bikes are easier to get to the cct for adjustments and had that been the case on my 954 i probably would have left it. being so hard to reach made even a simple check to be sure the locking nut was still snug an hour long job as the left fairing had to be pulled to have enough room to get your arm up in there to do so.

in short i think the ape is a better design but it requires frequent upkeep even if not adjusting it just to be sure its not come loose on you. on my bike that was just more trouble than it was worth in the end and i was happy to put the automatic cct back on it.

the oem does cost more money and has no adjustment so when its done its done but imo its worth the extra cash not to have to constantly worry about has it come loose or did i really get it adjusted correctly or is it on the verge of letting the chain skip a tooth or did i put too much tension on it etc etc.

i had one on a zx9r but on that bike it was literally right there and very easy to adjust while on the side with the cam chain so you could listen and focus on the feel of the chain under the tensioner by hand. on the 954 it was like i said a super pita just to lay a hand on it because of its location behind the frame rail.
 

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Thanks! I apreciate the help. Who dificult is it to replace? Any tricks or anything specifiti i need to do before starting procedure ??
 

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it will come with instructions or you can find them on the ape web site.

basically you remove the old one. you will need to order also the gasket from an oem parts supplier like partzilla or ron ayers, or get the part number at one of those sites and see if you cant find it on ebay using the part number in a search. your old gasket will probably rip and be stuck to either the block or the old cct making it impossible to reuse. its cheap so go ahead n order a new gasket.

once its installed, you just tighten it by hand until you feel it make contact with the cam chain. its a good idea to take the timing cover off and rotate the engine CLOCKWISE as you feel the cct bolt to be sure its actually made contact. youll feel the chain inside moving against the guide thru the bolt on the cct.

the instructions say once you feel its made contact back it off a 1/4 turn and tighten the locking nut.

ive found that too loose in my experience but its a good starting point.

from there ill start the bike and listen. ill loosen the cct until i just start to hear it rattle. its a very distinctive sound and youll know it when you hear it. then i tighten it until i hear that rattle go away. if you pay close attention feeling with your hand as you loosen it you can also feel the cam chain kind of bouncing at the same time you start to hear the rattle. paying attention to that bouncing feel and the noise, tighten it until the rattle stops and you can feel the chains bouncing thru the cct adjustment bolt level out. then tighten the locking nut. then rev the bike n listen for rattles particularly around the 3500-4500 rpm range. if you still hear rattling tighten it like another 1/4 turn n check again.

cam chains make noise so it can be a little tricky just basing it on sound. if youve tightened it too much itll make a kind of wheeerring sound all the time. also if its too tight it can cause your idle to fluctuate. keep in mind also that as you rev the bike even if its adjusted perfectly there is going to be some wheering sounds as well.

you just want it tight enough to keep that rattling off. once youve got it where you think its pretty good id advise you to drop a bit of blue thread locker on the threads of the adjustment bolt by the locking bolt to help ensure it doesnt vibrate loose on you. its a good idea to mark the locking nut with a permanent marker going down onto the body so you can visually see if the bolt has moved any.

then its just a matter of tightening it slightly whenever you start to hear the rattle coming back. maybe once a year or every other, just depends on how hard and how often you ride it.

watch a few videos on youtube of guys installing/adjusting them and youll get a decent idea of what needs to be done.
 

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like i said how hard it is to put on depends on the bike. on my zx9r i dont think i even had to take the fairing off. on my 954 i had to take the fairing off, lift the tank, take off the airbox and take the throttle bodies off just to get a wrench on the bolts that hold it on the engine. major pain in the ass.
 

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Well, sick of that knocking sound, starts as a tap, then after a while turns into a knock. Well so did I. I checked the forum, youtube and google. Turns out to be the Cam Chain Tensioner. I have the factory spring tensioner on my CBR 919. Firstly I unscrewed the cover bolt, to reveal a internal screw I then get get a screw driver into it, you have to turn clockwise
to close and anti clockwise to open. When you close it springs back to open, so I gave it another quarter turn anti clockwise. It worked for 10 minutes then she started knocking again. So I purchased Honda genuine part $90AU. It only took 30 minutes to replace the tensioner. You do have to take off the bottom and both side fairings, then remove on the right side the bracket that holds the centre fairing. Use an alan key to remove bolts that secure to crank case and some pliers for force. I used some silicon on gasket and then locked the tensioner closed with tool provided, then did up fasteners 1.2KG of force not much so just used pliers. Then replace cap bolt and washer and done.

Started bike, no knocking. Hoorah, I will let you know after ride if all good.

I have attached photo of old tensioner, I can only assume that the internal crank, wears and does not push the pin out far enough when open to apply force on the cam chain guards.

Drybo


Did you not jave to find TDC (top dead centre before you fitted it?
 
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