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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,
Hopefully I can tap into the wealth of knowledge on this site, so here it goes.
I've got a 95 Blade that about 3 months ago developed problems with starting, every now and again it wouldn't start (nothing on the starter switch) After a little investigation I found one of the yellow connectors on the RR was burnt, checked the RR and it was faulty so I ordered one from US cheap of ebay. Put this in the bike didn't last 5 minutes, so they sent me another one which again I installed seemed ok about 14.5 volts across the battery. Took her for a test ride was ok early but then the speedo stopped working followed shortly by the bike coughing and farting then stopping completely. Got her home (on a trailer) and found yet again the RR was cactus. The stator resistance checks out fine and I even replaced the battery second time around. The only thing I haven't checked is the output from the stator which I believe should be around 75-80 volts AC. The only thing I found was a bit of corrosion on the 2 wires going away (common terminal) from the starter relay. Has anyone else come across a similar problem?
 

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have similar problem, have replaced plugs battery and reg rectifier and still wont start other than by bump starting....did u sort out your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Work in progress at the moment, did check the output voltage from the stator and seems ok 50V at approx 5000 rpm so other than that everything is again pointing at the RR.
 

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50 Volts at 5000 rpm!! Holy crap. Get a new Stator yours is toast. And a new R/R and a new battery more than likely.
 

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You should be putting out 12-15.5 volts at 5,000 rpm. Charge the new battery at no more than 2amps maximum. Follow the instructions that come with the battery for prepping it. Can be the difference between a battery lasting a few months and one that lasts for years.
 

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ebay rectifiers can and do go bad.

Did you check the rectifier plug? On my '95, two of my 3 yellow wire connectors rusted away. I replaced the wires/connectors and all was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its putting out about 18V at idle, but following Electro Sports diagnosis chart they say 50V or more at 5000rpm?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ebay rectifiers can and do go bad.

Did you check the rectifier plug? On my '95, two of my 3 yellow wire connectors rusted away. I replaced the wires/connectors and all was fine.
Yeh as stated found a burnt connector on the stator and had to cut the plug off completely replaced with single connectors
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You should be putting out 12-15.5 volts at 5,000 rpm. Charge the new battery at no more than 2amps maximum. Follow the instructions that come with the battery for prepping it. Can be the difference between a battery lasting a few months and one that lasts for years.
Is this Honda spec, cause it clashes with most of the info I have so far??
 

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The Honda manual says to check the voltage output at the battery, not at the stator connector. That's what had me saying holy cow.. getting 50 volts at the battery. And it still seems high to me to be getting 50 straight off the stator.. why so high when it just has to be converted down to 12-15.5 volts?? Maybe someone else has an answer to that ( my ) question?

Check your stator by checking voltage AT the battery. You should get 13-15.5V/5000rpm. This is if you have a good R/R i believe.

Second: Remind you this is all straight from the horses mouth ( Honda book )

Remove the three prong connector that goes to the stator.

Measure the resistance between each yellow wire and (-) Ground for NO continuity. If continuity is present the stator needs to be replaced.

The standard GOOD measurement is 0.1-0.3 Ohms ( 68F-20Celcius temperature of the stator. if it's outside of this spec then replace the stator.

I'm really thinking your stator is fried. There's no reason to be blowing out R/R other than a bad stator OR a bad ground to the stator OR a bad battery ground cable. The only other explanation i can come up with that is just a theory, is a hot wire grounding out on the frame or engine.

While you are doing all this electrical sorting.. check your battery cables to make sure there is no corrosion on the cables themselves. Many times corrossion sneaks under the cable insulation and then starts rotting through. Replace cables if corrosion is present. Also on the subframe where the R/R bolts up to, replace the bolts and nuts of they are corroded, make sure they are tight and that the R/R metal backing plate makes good contact with the subframe. This is one of the issues that can make a R/R burn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks rr... the stator resitance is fine at 0.2 ohms across all 3 and the output from the stator does get rectified, but I am not sure why its so high... is there anything in the Honda manual for voltage testing? I did check all connections and even remade the earth on the motor, the only corrosion I found was on the two wires going away from the starter relay (a red and a red/white) not sure where they go
 

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Yeh as stated found a burnt connector on the stator and had to cut the plug off completely replaced with single connectors
no, not the stator plug, I'm talking about the regulator/rectifier plug. Did you check that? This plug also has a history of going bad due the water that gets up in there.
 

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If your stator is unconnected, you can get 500 volts at redline.

If all three phases are equal at idle when unconnected and the previous test of shorts to the frame tested ok, your stator should be good. You can expect 50 volts at idle unconnected. The R/R is a shunt type regulator and it will clamp the unused power down to battery volts.
 

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I had an issue like this on my 99 a couple months back,
if your stators bad it'll cause the RR to work harder to compensate and end up burning it out,

what I ended up having to do and what I would suggest is replacing the stator and the RR with a new one (not an ebay one) and check the fuse, replace if needed and you should be back at 100%
 

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Discussion Starter #15
no, not the stator plug, I'm talking about the regulator/rectifier plug. Did you check that? This plug also has a history of going bad due the water that gets up in there.
Yeh mate I am talking about the rectifier plug, one of the stator connections was burnt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hooray... I think I have finally got it sorted put in a 04 RR and it works a treat. Had to cut off the plugs and direct solder, mounted the new RR further back on the frame. Rode about 150k's this morning and all is good, my speedo has come back to life and the bike is alot crisper. Cost me $185 (Aus) for the genuine item which works out cheaper than the after market version...stoked.
 

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Ok so the confusion ( at least for me ) seems to have been you were testing voltage out put before the voltage r/r. I always test voltage at the battery, where Honda says 12-15.5 volts up to 5000 rpm. Any more than that the battery is likely to fail.

How did you get a 7 wire voltage r/r to work on a five wire system? Watch your battery for sure now. different size motorcycle batteries are made to hold/withstand certain amounts of voltage. Like on the 954RR, it uses a constant 14.2 volt charging system, it doesn't change with rpm.

I'd say test the voltage at the battery throughout the rpm range to make sure it does not exceed 15.5 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok so the confusion ( at least for me ) seems to have been you were testing voltage out put before the voltage r/r. I always test voltage at the battery, where Honda says 12-15.5 volts up to 5000 rpm. Any more than that the battery is likely to fail.

How did you get a 7 wire voltage r/r to work on a five wire system? Watch your battery for sure now. different size motorcycle batteries are made to hold/withstand certain amounts of voltage. Like on the 954RR, it uses a constant 14.2 volt charging system, it doesn't change with rpm.

I'd say test the voltage at the battery throughout the rpm range to make sure it does not exceed 15.5 volts.
I'd already established that the RR was cactus, I was checking the output of the stator which should be about 50VAC at 5000 revs. The RR that i fitted was identical, the wiring harness was the same (maybe it was a 954, was told it was 04?) all be it the size of the wire was bigger. I checked once installed and it was constant at around 14.8V up to about 6000rpm. I have done about 180k's now and every thing is fine.
 
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