Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

61 - 80 of 117 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
456 Posts
Now its time to remove the fork cap. Clean all the fluid and dirt you can off of the damper, fork spring, spring collar and fork cap. You will need a 15mm wrench and a 3/4in wrench for this step. If you have a spring compressor or access to one it will make this step easier but its not required. You may need a second person to help here.

Place the damper on a firm surface like a rag on the floor or top of your work bench. (Now look at pic2 of the damper without the fork cap. Your 15mm wrench goes on the body not the lock nut at the bottom.) Using a towel for grip in one hand pull down hard on the spring collar compressing the spring until you can slip your 15mm wrench on the damper. Now using the open end of a 3/4in wrench you should easily be able to remove the lock nut on the top of the fork cap. The cap will be tight on the damper. Remove your 15mm wrench. Now turn the fork cap counterclockwise until it stops then lift up. It should come off the damper. Remove the white plastic spring collar and fork spring. You are done with disassembly of the internals. Clean all parts and put them aside.
This should be 14mm. I just did it and the 15mm was loose. 14mm is a perfect fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
UPDATE: It has been just over 3 years since I first rebuilt my forks with new bushings, seals and stiffer fork springs. One year later I added gold valves from Racetech. The pictures below show my old bushings compared to new from the first of this post. The other picture is my current bushings after 3+ yrs and 10k+ miles. The fork oil is just over 2 years old and well it speaks for itself. Very dirty and needed to be changed. For anyone still riding around on bone stock forks that have never been serviced I would highly recommend getting them done with new bushings, seals and fork oil asap.

I am currently rebuilding my forks again with new fork & dust seals, removing the stiffer springs in favor of the softer stock springs for drag racing use and new fork oil. After seeing how bad the fork oil looks after only 2 years I will be changing the fork oil every year now.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
So, on the 954 you can only upgrade the compression valving? Is there any rebound valving kit's that can be purchased to upgrade?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
quick question. im planning on chaging the oil in my forks tomorrow (954)

with the 110mm tube, did you use that to empty out excess fluid? by haveing a 110mm tube is that an accurate way of making the sure the correct amount of fluid is used? im having a hard time figuring this out. something im reading are saying 16oz some are saying volume, some say a L for both forks ect. im just trying to figure out how much to put in each fork. simple fork oil change, nothing more. nothing less.

thanks in advance (having my own fork issues right now. have a thread on here if your interested in taking a peek )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
quick question. im planning on chaging the oil in my forks tomorrow (954)

with the 110mm tube, did you use that to empty out excess fluid? by haveing a 110mm tube is that an accurate way of making the sure the correct amount of fluid is used? im having a hard time figuring this out. something im reading are saying 16oz some are saying volume, some say a L for both forks ect. im just trying to figure out how much to put in each fork. simple fork oil change, nothing more. nothing less.

thanks in advance (having my own fork issues right now. have a thread on here if your interested in taking a peek )
Yes its easier to add too much fluid then using the tool like I made to remove the excess fluid so you are left with the desired air gap. Depending on how good of a job you do in cleaning all the old fluid from the fork will determine how much new fluid you will need. That's why you can't just add a certain amount of fluid and it be correct.

The air gap for stock forks is 73mm. Reducing the air gap will stiffen the fork.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
awesome. thanks for that, so why did you take 110m out then? wouldn't that make the fork extremely stiff?

i followed your directions and disassembled 1 of my forks tonight. come to find out its bent so thats not good news, would you mind checking out my thread and giving your input ?

again thanks for the write up!

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/108146-fork-setting-question-probably-no-brainer-for-track-guys-3.html#post1165142
Did you read the part where I installed Racetech springs instead of the stock springs? The air gap is set before the springs are installed in the fork. Aftermarket springs are stiffer than stock and require a different air gap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Did you read the part where I installed Racetech springs instead of the stock springs? The air gap is set before the springs are installed in the fork. Aftermarket springs are stiffer than stock and require a different air gap.


yes i read that, so stiffer springs and less air gap seems to equal a very hard fork , at least logically. but im not expert just thinking out loud . and hey it works youve done it so case proven lol :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Thanks for the excellent write up, much appreciated!! I just started leaking from a blown fork seal but then again I've been running on the stock oil, springs, bushings, etc. from 2003 so it's time for a change lol!!!

Trying to decide between Ohlins internals or Traxxion.. I'm going to go with .95's (street/track @195lbs) & re-valve.. :patriot:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
Thanks for the excellent write up, much appreciated!! I just started leaking from a blown fork seal but then again I've been running on the stock oil, springs, bushings, etc. from 2003 so it's time for a change lol!!!

Trying to decide between Ohlins internals or Traxxion.. I'm going to go with .95's (street/track @195lbs) & re-valve.. :patriot:
I have a set of Racetech .95kg springs that I will sell you. I had them in my 954 until this year. I removed them because I only drag race now so I went back to stock springs to lower the front end more when using a lowering strap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
I have a set of Racetech .95kg springs that I will sell you. I had them in my 954 until this year. I removed them because I only drag race now so I went back to stock springs to lower the front end more when using a lowering strap.
I already ordered 1.0kg 06 CBR1000rr springs from partzilla.com on sale for ~$35 each
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I have a set of Racetech .95kg springs that I will sell you. I had them in my 954 until this year. I removed them because I only drag race now so I went back to stock springs to lower the front end more when using a lowering strap.


Interested in springs. How much do you want for the springs shipped to Florida? If needed email me at [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
I already ordered 1.0kg 06 CBR1000rr springs from partzilla.com on sale for ~$35 each
Check the length on the 1k springs against the stock 954 springs. My racetech springs were about a 1/4" shorter than the stock springs and required the use of washers (provided from Racetech) to get the required 10mm of preload on the spring when installed.

http://www.racetech.com/html_files/preload.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Check the length on the 1k springs against the stock 954 springs. My racetech springs were about a 1/4" shorter than the stock springs and required the use of washers (provided from Racetech) to get the required 10mm of preload on the spring when installed.

Fork Spring Preload
I already did and posted a question here:

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/108200-954-fork-spring-options-rc51-cbr1000.html


actually I ordered them because of your post in the other thread here:

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/88746-advice-cbr-929-954-suspension-upgrade.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
I think the springs from a RC51 & CBR1000 are too short by about 15-30mm?? I looked at the Ohlins replacement spring length and they list the 954 at 250mm, with the CBR1000 at 220mm & The RC51 at 235mm... They list the same part # & fitment for the CBR954rr, CB1000R & GSXR750, both with 250mm length springs...

After searching the web I found the CB1000R has stock .90 springs and partzilla sells them for ~$35 each.. My CBR1000rr springs I already ordered should be here today or tomorrow so I will measure them and if they are way too short I will just return them for the CB1000r springs and deal with the lower spring rate. I really wanted 1.0's for my weight and riding style but I think .90's will still get the job done.. any thoughts on the matter? Should I just stop being a cheapskate and spend the extra ~$70 for the extra .10 rate and would it really make a significant difference for very aggressive street/canyon carving (TT style!) and occasional track days?

I'm guessing having to add a 30mm spacer or washer would be too much and take away from travel? What would the maximum washer thickness you could use for keeping lengths the same without effecting performance, maybe 2-3mm or does it even matter? :idunno:

ps: does anybody know the outer diameter for the washers-spacers used to by racetech, etc to take up the slack of their slightky shorter spring length? I would like to buy a bunch of washers ahead of time at the hardware store before I take my forks apart in case I only need a few mm of thickness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I put 07 forks and 08 calipers on my 954. I Measured the front ride height before and after and the 07 forks only dropped the front 7mm. I lowered the shock 10mm and have been making adjustments from there. At the race track doing a shake down and intentionally running 6 secs off normal pace, it worked fine. I am going back this weekend, I'll try get some good video and data.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Make sure you have all your parts ready and cleaned. First place the lower fork tube with axle holder in a vise. Next place some grease on the fork bullet (if you bought one) and slide in down on the lower fork tube until it covers the lower groove for the inner bushing. Place a small amount of fork grease or high quality grease on the dust seal, fork oil seal, inner and outer bushings.

MAKE SURE TO PUT PARTS ON IN CORRECT ORDER!!

1. Dust seal
2. snap ring
3. fork oil seal
4. back-up ring
5. outer bushing
6. inner bushing.

Remove fork bullet after fork oil seal. We are now ready to install the fork seals.
Should I use grease to coat these items(lithium, all purpose, marine??) or fork oil?
 
61 - 80 of 117 Posts
Top