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Can anyone please tell me why you would balance the throttle bodies on a 2006 CBR1000RR Fireblade and how it is done?

I would like to have my bike custom mapped but have been advised that it would be a good idea to have the throttle bodies balanced first to make the most of the custom map.

Thanks for your advice, Paul
 

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Can anyone please tell me why you would balance the throttle bodies on a 2006 CBR1000RR Fireblade and how it is done?

I would like to have my bike custom mapped but have been advised that it would be a good idea to have the throttle bodies balanced first to make the most of the custom map.

Thanks for your advice, Paul
You balance them to ensure they are all providing the same amount of air to each cylinder at idle. It's done with vacuum gauges as detailed in the manual.
I wouldn't worry too much about synch but definately make sure everything else is good - valve clearances and new plugs and filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Blade Racer.
Do you need to have the engine running and if so is there certain conditions that are better for balancing the throttle bodies, a friend has the gauges already?
 

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Thanks Blade Racer.
Do you need to have the engine running and if so is there certain conditions that are better for balancing the throttle bodies, a friend has the gauges already?


Just follow the instructions in the manual.
Yes, you need the engine running to be able to measure the manifold vacuum of each cylinder.
Do it as the last item of a major service, everything else needs to be optimum or there's little point in doing the synch.
 

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Trust Me Brother, In My VAST Experience with over 40yrs as a Professional Jap Bike Trained Service Tech, I Have Not FOUND Many HONDA'S that will have Perfect IN SYNC THROTTLE BODIES,(More so ON Nearly any Suzuki).. Tune a out Of Sync Rack of Throttle Bodies(or Carbs) You GAIN A Very Noticeable DIFFERENCE, It WILL XLR8 Harder.. (= & Stretch thy Arms from thy shoulder socket area a Noticeably More TOO) WHEN you DO Properly Sync any inline4 Jap Bikes Rack of T-Bodies (or CARBS: if you still own Something from a Past ERA that i see so Rare.. its nearly Extinct)
* BUT, do yourself a Sweeeeet Favor.. All of You with inline 4's ..
LOOK down INTO each ONE of Your T-Bodies while you hold the Butterflies WIDE OPEN (*IMPORTANT*NOTE*= while the ENGINE is NOT Running of Course.. Could IT Be True ..WE Were ALL Rookies when We Began Years ago?)
& as you Peer down in there with a good flashlight, Take Notice HOW BAD the FLOW AREA Walls of each Port Mates to the RUBBER Intake BOOTS ..These Rubber Intake Boots between the RACK and the HEADS Inlet Port, These usually are made with Such Piss Poor level of Quality CONTROL, Mass produced CRAP normally IS in this area too..Yet its the MOST IMPORTANT Area, "Thy Flow Area" ..See a few spots where the Aluminum PORTS inner diameter WALL'S EDGE Pokes In way further than the Inner Wall OF EACH RUBBER Intake BOOT "that is SUPPOSED to Mate perfectly FLUSH and LEVEL all the WAY AROUND inside these 4 intake ports? They Are NOT Level On 8 out of every 10 I've ever Checked over the many Years I've been PROPERLY FINE TUNING JAP BIKES.
So to answer Your Question..Do You Need To Sync multiple T-Bodies & Individual carbs TOGETHER, "Not Always" and "You'll HEAR Self Proclaimed Bike Tech GODS Say Dont fret Over The little things like That".. But Until You Do..Then when You HEAR the Difference IT MADE.. in the WAY a Properly & Correctly SYNCED Rack of T-bodies SOUNDS Different than It Did before when it Idled.. Like a few baby Pit bull puppies gnawing and Groaning to 1 another as they Play and Roll Growling Together as Pups... RuhhRARuhhRuhhRAHruhhRUHRAHhhRuh.... You'll Notice How it Sounds Way More Crisp Immediately.. WOW.. My Cams .. I really HEAR Them Now ..& They sound SO Awesome NOW! ..all loping like that So Sweet "as IT SHOULD" .. If its above 550cc.. and its Jap.. and its a Sport Bike.. IT SHOULD NOT Sound like a constant RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR when It IDLES.. SYNC and She will Sing To You Brother, ..and after you sand the Out of Round Rubber Boots INNER WALLS to Be EQUAL where they Mesh to the Aluminum PORT RUNNERS Inner diameter .. use a slight pass or two with a cheap cig lighter to barely lay the Ruffies down smoother .
So.. about T-Body Sync.. Yes It Makes a difference, .. a Quite NICE Type Of FELT Difference..feel it in thy Pants Too..EVEN IF they WERE almost Synced Perfect (none ARE or ever will be Either out thy factory in most of the ton of crotch Rockets I've seen..) ..ONLY THEN ..CAN we FEEL ..what thy Phrase, "as Good as it GETS" Can BE!
PS..in case we have More Rookies Still reading at this Point.. **TAKE THE BOOT OFF TO GRIND/SAND/& CORRECTLY SHAPE the Insides of Each Intake Rubber BOOT.. a pile of soft rubber Grit don't just Foul Plugs.. It Sticks Thy TOP Ring in Thy Pistons Ring Groove's Too.
and IF i need to say WAD UP A FEW PAPER TOWELS and STUFF that BIG OPEN Intake PORT SHUT so Nothing FALLS IN each of the FOUR Intake Runners and DOWN INTO THE MIX.. (A.K.A.: the SQUISH AREA) I advise You (Thy Rookie) To HALT .. and seek Yee Some WISE Trained Service Tech ASSISTANCE. ..Because That AREA is already FILLED with what it CAN TAKE as it Runs.. Be Forewarned..even that itty Bitty Teeny Tiny Little Pinch Metal round springy Thing you PINCH to Undo a tiny Vacuum Line or Tiny Hose.. IT WONT FIT with what is SUPPOSED to Be FED into That Engine THAT IS ALREADY FULL Once it Intakes...in relation to What It Can FURTHER INGEST that is.. Cuhpeesh!
Peace,( Not PIECE..PIECE=PIECES.. & Just a teeny tiny Bit Of GRIT sucked into any Engine.. Makes way Way MORE GRIT..Immediately Too)
..I Ride To Live ..It sets Me FREE ..Need Help Brother~ I'll Give ..to Make Life as Good as it Should Be
..WallyB.
 

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No idea what you just said but I like it.
 

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No idea what you just said but I like it.
Talking about matching the rubbers/insulators to the head. Would be considered as part of porting. At least at on my 954 the rubbers are smaller then the head by aprox 1mm but my head is ported so the intake port of thead has slittly bigger port entering then stock. I could thought disagree on "flow area" comments. The area that makes to most difference when modified Is the valve seat.. But of course if the rubbers are too small or tb:s too small it will be what determines the max flow while it should be the head.
 

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I was being tongue in cheek
 
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