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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys

I pick up the CBR1000RR next week.

This will be my first new bike in a long long time

What is the best way to run this bike in?
 

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Basically follow the manufacturers guidelines. Don't be afraid to rev through the range a bit now and then, don't stay at one rpm for 10 mins at a time, vary it. Light to 3/4 throttle. Change oil at 600mi with NON synthetic and again at 2k.
 

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This thread outta take off nicely... :popcorn:

IMO, too many folks get all lathered up about this subject. Keep it simple.

Use the bottom half of the tach for the first 550 or so miles.

Explore the top half of the tach for another 50 miles including at least one run through the gears to redline (not necessarily a top speed run, but flog it hard for three or four gears if possible).

Change oil and filter at 600 and, from there on out, ride it as you will.

The only caveat I'll give is this: I subscribe to the theory of ~3 full heat cycles the first time you ride the bike, that is, start it and make sure it is ridden long enough to bring it up to full operating temp, then shut it down and let it sit long enough to go stone cold before the next ride.
 

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Yep, Dan Kyle's way is about what I do. Take it easy for the break in oil, and then ride it like I stole it.
 

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I was curious about the quote in the knowledge base...

"Don't let it get hot. Stay below 220 degrees F. If it hits 220, shut it down, pull over whatever you have to do"

I understand the reasoning behind this from a mechanical point of view, but what I'm a little confused about is how long? For the first 100-200 miles? Just a couple heat cycles? For the entire 600+ mile break in? I havent found this elaborated on in any other similar topics. :confused:
 

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I broke my 954 inhard on the dyno Changed oil at 20km and also at about 60km, and again at 200km. you would be surprised at the amount of crap that came out of the engine. I wouldn't want it in there for the first 500 or 600 miles, that is for sure. Break the bike in any way you feel comfortable with, but I truly think changing the oil frequently at the start is of great benefit.

As for the results of the dyno break in, my bike hit 136.3 hp and yesterday hit 137.4. These numbers are up on most 954's in Aus. they usually hit the high 120's/low 130's.

Z...
 

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Zee, that depends on the dyno. Take it to ten tenths, and your bike will have 145, but will it go any harder?
As for cracking it hard from the start, I've seen a few bikes destroy bottom ends doing that. My mate had a GSXR a few years back, and the guy at the shop told him "Just flog it, I took mine to a track day the first day". 1 month later, the bike was in getting the bottom end rebuilt.
Just do what was said above (somewhere) first 500km, up to about 7-8rpm, vary the load on the bike, but don't run at 2000rpm in top gear and wind on either. With mine, once I'm past 500kms, I'll take it to another 1000rpm for every 100km I put on (ie: 600km = 8rpm, 700km = 9rpm, 800 = 10 etc ).
 

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It wasn't taken to red from the word go, it was worked up to it.

But anyway, it is my bike, my money, and my risk. Depends on the person who payed the $$$...

I thinkt he best way is to read all the information out there, talk to people who "know" (such as Sook or abtech) and make your own informed decision.

Z...
 

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I don't agree with the hard break-in method promoted by people like the mototune person. That philosophy comes from racebikes, with money behind them. A racebike also has set limits on parts before they are changed, exact mileage figures, and believe me that shit gets swapped out thousands and thousands of miles before a production bike. They swap engine enternals, and a whole host of parts.

Zeeman, I think the reason for waiting 600 miles to change the oil is that there is nothing you can do to stop metallic particles getting in the oil during the first 500 miles or so. You can change it every 50 miles if you want, there is still going to metal in there. If you have the OEM filter on there, it will filter most of that crap out. Even if you are getting on the throttle hard, the oil is still fresh. It's not going to completely breakdown at 50 or 100 miles.


Goose, that KB article was me typing as I listened to Dan on the phone. He was giving me information and I wasn't going to start a pop quiz on each point :smilebig: I think not letting the bike get hot enough for the fan to pop on for the first couple of hundred miles is a smart thing. How long you decide to keep that up depends upon you. This subject is like oil, tires, WD40, or Stegen revving to 11,000 RPMS at a dead standstill, it's debateable :smilebig:
 

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booth23 said:
I don't agree with the hard break-in method promoted by people like the mototune person. That philosophy comes from racebikes, with money behind them. A racebike also has set limits on parts before they are changed, exact mileage figures, and believe me that shit gets swapped out thousands and thousands of miles before a production bike. They swap engine enternals, and a whole host of parts.
Well, Motoman reckons he ran a whole season on the one engine, so go figure? I think there's a bit of truth to both sides of the story. Don't dawdle about and only take your bike to 2k etc. Nor should you go and redline it within 5 minutes of starting it. A methodic approach of running through the gears, some medium accelaration and gradually taking it up is the go in my opinion.

booth23 said:
Zeeman, I think the reason for waiting 600 miles to change the oil is that there is nothing you can do to stop metallic particles getting in the oil during the first 500 miles or so. You can change it every 50 miles if you want, there is still going to metal in there. If you have the OEM filter on there, it will filter most of that crap out. Even if you are getting on the throttle hard, the oil is still fresh. It's not going to completely breakdown at 50 or 100 miles.
The whole idea of changing the oil is to remove the metal particles that have built up in the oil. If you reckon it's full of shit, take the oil out, or have a look at somoene who has at even 50km and check out all the crap in there. Bear in mind this is FILTERED oil already! Oil filters just don't get the really fine grit out of oil, it's that simple. The idea is to get rid of the metal particles as soon as possible, and regulary to let the oil do it's job, and not to wear any internal components more than they need too. The oil itself will be fine yes, it won't break down that soon, it's for the metal particles in there that the oil change is beneficial.
 

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FuTAnT said:
The whole idea of changing the oil is to remove the metal particles that have built up in the oil. If you reckon it's full of shit, take the oil out, or have a look at somoene who has at even 50km and check out all the crap in there. Bear in mind this is FILTERED oil already! Oil filters just don't get the really fine grit out of oil, it's that simple. The idea is to get rid of the metal particles as soon as possible, and regulary to let the oil do it's job, and not to wear any internal components more than they need too. The oil itself will be fine yes, it won't break down that soon, it's for the metal particles in there that the oil change is beneficial.
I can tell you, when I was breaking in my bike, after the first oil change (about 20km) there was an astonishing amount of metal int here. I'm pretty sur eI have posted pics regarding this. After the 3nd oil change at about 300km, there was very little, but you could still visibly see metal particles. When I changed my oil at the 1000km mark, there was no metal that I could see with my naked eye. not sure about you guys, but the $40 I spent on the extra 2 loads of mineral oil sure is worth it, knowing that all that crap wasn't floating around for 1000km... :smilebig:

Z...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi All

Thanks for the advice

I like the idea of changing the oil once or twice before the first initial service, however it was mentioned a couple of times above that the first oil changes should be mineral oil?

I'me sure the dealer said to me that the new blade must be run on synthetic due to the surface treatment on the pistons

Any comments?
 

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booth23 said:
Goose, that KB article was me typing as I listened to Dan on the phone. He was giving me information and I wasn't going to start a pop quiz on each point :smilebig: I think not letting the bike get hot enough for the fan to pop on for the first couple of hundred miles is a smart thing. How long you decide to keep that up depends upon you. This subject is like oil, tires, WD40, or Stegen revving to 11,000 RPMS at a dead standstill, it's debateable :smilebig:
Doh! Thanks booth. I had a feeling it wasnt for the whole 600ish miles, it just cought my curiosity :hmm:
 

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StuUK said:
Hi All

Thanks for the advice

I like the idea of changing the oil once or twice before the first initial service, however it was mentioned a couple of times above that the first oil changes should be mineral oil?

I'me sure the dealer said to me that the new blade must be run on synthetic due to the surface treatment on the pistons

Any comments?
Yep, that's absolutely correct. The synthetic oils are basically too good and don't let the engine bed in properly. I ran mineral to 1000km, then semi synth to 6000km, then full synthetic thereafter.
 

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Maybe we need to do our own survey on HP outputs Vs breakin methods to get a bit of an idea on what effect running procedures are having on power outputs, I know not all bikes will be tested on the the same dyno by the same operator but if we eventually get enough figures maybe we will see a patern starting to develop! Mine was run in hard but methodically and put out 135.7 basically stock (although no Flapper) and 136.3 with a generic map for the std euro blade (110-501), Zee's bike also put out very similar numbers and both of these on the same dyno on the same day ( and no this isnt a high reading dyno as the guy we went to does most of the dyno tests for AMCN (Australian Motor Cycle News) and the 954 that he dynoed for the "ultimate big bore shootout" forget which issue, but not too long ago put out 128.8rwHP (R1 140hp, ZX9 134hp, GSXR1K 148hp) Anyway I think if over time we get enough numbers the results will speak for them self! :thumb:
 

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You know I have had about 20+ bikes and alway's followed the "don't WOT the first few hundred miles" and the "don't lug or cruise at the same speed for long" method but to be honest, I have never run my bike on a dyno at any interval to be able to tell if I broke it in correctly or not. How do you tell?

I only remember having one stone slow bike, it was a 1980 GS-1100 Slowsuki and it never revved above 9K no matter what I did, and I broke it in by the book. So theories abound, but the reality is most of us should probably run it in the way the manufacturer tells us (ps: they actually engineer the bike). :thumb:
 

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Yama1yzf said:
You know I have had about 20+ bikes and alway's followed the "don't WOT the first few hundred miles" and the "don't lug or cruise at the same speed for long" method but to be honest, I have never run my bike on a dyno at any interval to be able to tell if I broke it in correctly or not. How do you tell?

I only remember having one stone slow bike, it was a 1980 GS-1100 Slowsuki and it never revved above 9K no matter what I did, and I broke it in by the book. So theories abound, but the reality is most of us should probably run it in the way the manufacturer tells us (ps: they actually engineer the bike). :thumb:
I agree with you, but don't listen to the OEM whatever you do. Also in that manual, it states that you should change the oil at 8000 mile intervals, which very few of us do. :rolleyes: Most people change it at 2k miles, thus 1 upping the Honda engineers that actually made the bike :smilebig:
 
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