Well, Motoman reckons he ran a whole season on the one engine, so go figure? I think there's a bit of truth to both sides of the story. Don't dawdle about and only take your bike to 2k etc. Nor should you go and redline it within 5 minutes of starting it. A methodic approach of running through the gears, some medium accelaration and gradually taking it up is the go in my opinion.booth23 said:I don't agree with the hard break-in method promoted by people like the mototune person. That philosophy comes from racebikes, with money behind them. A racebike also has set limits on parts before they are changed, exact mileage figures, and believe me that shit gets swapped out thousands and thousands of miles before a production bike. They swap engine enternals, and a whole host of parts.
The whole idea of changing the oil is to remove the metal particles that have built up in the oil. If you reckon it's full of shit, take the oil out, or have a look at somoene who has at even 50km and check out all the crap in there. Bear in mind this is FILTERED oil already! Oil filters just don't get the really fine grit out of oil, it's that simple. The idea is to get rid of the metal particles as soon as possible, and regulary to let the oil do it's job, and not to wear any internal components more than they need too. The oil itself will be fine yes, it won't break down that soon, it's for the metal particles in there that the oil change is beneficial.booth23 said:Zeeman, I think the reason for waiting 600 miles to change the oil is that there is nothing you can do to stop metallic particles getting in the oil during the first 500 miles or so. You can change it every 50 miles if you want, there is still going to metal in there. If you have the OEM filter on there, it will filter most of that crap out. Even if you are getting on the throttle hard, the oil is still fresh. It's not going to completely breakdown at 50 or 100 miles.
I can tell you, when I was breaking in my bike, after the first oil change (about 20km) there was an astonishing amount of metal int here. I'm pretty sur eI have posted pics regarding this. After the 3nd oil change at about 300km, there was very little, but you could still visibly see metal particles. When I changed my oil at the 1000km mark, there was no metal that I could see with my naked eye. not sure about you guys, but the $40 I spent on the extra 2 loads of mineral oil sure is worth it, knowing that all that crap wasn't floating around for 1000km... :smilebig:FuTAnT said:The whole idea of changing the oil is to remove the metal particles that have built up in the oil. If you reckon it's full of shit, take the oil out, or have a look at somoene who has at even 50km and check out all the crap in there. Bear in mind this is FILTERED oil already! Oil filters just don't get the really fine grit out of oil, it's that simple. The idea is to get rid of the metal particles as soon as possible, and regulary to let the oil do it's job, and not to wear any internal components more than they need too. The oil itself will be fine yes, it won't break down that soon, it's for the metal particles in there that the oil change is beneficial.
Doh! Thanks booth. I had a feeling it wasnt for the whole 600ish miles, it just cought my curiosity :hmm:booth23 said:Goose, that KB article was me typing as I listened to Dan on the phone. He was giving me information and I wasn't going to start a pop quiz on each point :smilebig: I think not letting the bike get hot enough for the fan to pop on for the first couple of hundred miles is a smart thing. How long you decide to keep that up depends upon you. This subject is like oil, tires, WD40, or Stegen revving to 11,000 RPMS at a dead standstill, it's debateable :smilebig:
Yep, that's absolutely correct. The synthetic oils are basically too good and don't let the engine bed in properly. I ran mineral to 1000km, then semi synth to 6000km, then full synthetic thereafter.StuUK said:Hi All
Thanks for the advice
I like the idea of changing the oil once or twice before the first initial service, however it was mentioned a couple of times above that the first oil changes should be mineral oil?
I'me sure the dealer said to me that the new blade must be run on synthetic due to the surface treatment on the pistons
I agree with you, but don't listen to the OEM whatever you do. Also in that manual, it states that you should change the oil at 8000 mile intervals, which very few of us do. Most people change it at 2k miles, thus 1 upping the Honda engineers that actually made the bike :smilebig:Yama1yzf said:You know I have had about 20+ bikes and alway's followed the "don't WOT the first few hundred miles" and the "don't lug or cruise at the same speed for long" method but to be honest, I have never run my bike on a dyno at any interval to be able to tell if I broke it in correctly or not. How do you tell?
I only remember having one stone slow bike, it was a 1980 GS-1100 Slowsuki and it never revved above 9K no matter what I did, and I broke it in by the book. So theories abound, but the reality is most of us should probably run it in the way the manufacturer tells us (ps: they actually engineer the bike). :thumb: