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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have taken a mint condition 1994 CBR900rr, chopped the tail, and streetfightered it. I live in Thailand.

Here is what has been done:

Paint is a flat metallic silver – from 2010 Harley Sportster
I bought a whole new tail and undertray on ebay for $75. Chopped and powdercoated it.
The tiny black tail is the "beer tray" off a 2008 Ducati Monster.
Fly fatbars, powdercoated.
Top triple clamp powdercoated
Engine side covers powderocated.
Headlight assembly bought new at a Kawasaki shop – from a Japanese model called the D-Tracker
Pipe ceramic coated
Mirror is a "3rd Eye" from a bicycle
Front fender sprayed from a can.
Fork protectors are covered with 3M carbon sticker paper.
Grips are Rizoma look alikes made here.
Carbs cleaned out and balanced
Gas tank cleaned has had all rust removed and been treated
locally made CF rear wheel hugger
Rear shock is now a used 3 way Penske
Forks now have Racetech springs
Brembo front brake master and lever
Galfer steel brake lines in front
EBC brake pads
BT016 tires
New RK Silver X-ring chain
LED turn signals and tail light
Upgraded rectifier
Tank badge is from a 2009 CBR1000rr
Lower engine casings have been freshened up by means of an acid scrub

All totaled I have spent about $1500 to get it to this point... And it is 98% done now!
Man, does this thing go and handle!

Really enjoying this bike!

other low cost suggestions?
 

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:clap: Love it!!! Don't have any suggestions, but that is a fine street fighter!
 

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:thumb: Not bad, not bad at all..

My only criticism is the exhaust.. A stubby little underslung one would look better in my opinion :D
 

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excellent suggestion Loops!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yep, the exhaust in these pics is the one that was on the bike when I bought it. Now I have moved to this exhaust, which is still far back on the bike and not ideal visually (I worry about losing my low end torque as the old CBR has no exhaust valve) but a stubbier can and a much deeper sound.. and it seems to actually run better, power-wise... though I have no access to a dyno or exhaust gas analyzer....

What do you think? Am I going to lose low end torque if I move this exhaust in under the footpeg? Or get a classic streetfighter stubby exhaust and put it in under the peg?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am trying for a radical, yet understated look.... but not too radical - as in: too "busy" looking (too many mods) or "cartoon-ish" (too big or radical shapes), or too many bright colors, if you know what I mean....

Fortunately, this style is the cheapest too.... =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Other things done:

The wiring is tucked under the tank in the space in front of the airbox.
Dynojet kitted, K+N filter, and 4 degree ignition advancer.
pegs changed for a style with cleats, and that rotates to any angle with an adjuster bolt.
All the stock control cables for clutch and throttle were able to be retained.
License plate literally bolted to the undertray.
Fork leg color not changed as the local title says "silver and brown".. and the color on the title not easy to change here in Thailand.
I have no instrument panel at all, at the moment, but want at least a tach and a few LED lights for neutral, turns, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Loops,

I saw your 1994 CBR900rr with the Urban Tiger paint.... that is the EXACT bike I started with to do this streetfighter conversion! I found one here in Thailand with only 20,000 miles on it.... and in perfect condition..... owned by an old Japanese businessman.....

I have kept ALL the stock parts so I can go 100% back to original some day, if I want to... I almost hated to "break it up."
 

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There is something enticing about a well-done street fighter. It just begs to be thrashed, and my inner Hooligan starts hollering inside....
This is inspiring....
hmmm....
I think if I were to make a streetfighter it would be a v-twin though, as I would want that bottom end torque and that menacing growl, I imagine I wouldn't be doing triple digits on a fighter.... perhaps a few wheelies???
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi,

I have learned that US prices for risers can be a real rip-off....

Mine are simple, Asian made, straight, aluminium risers for 7/8 inch bar that are 1.5 inches tall and have one bolt coming out of the bottom to go thru your top triple clamp. On top of those are fat bar adapters for about another .5 inch rise.

The whole thing, made in China, was $25.

Since aluminum kinda "is what it is", I would say get the cheapest aluminum ones you can that you like the look of - in your case, likely off Ebay out of Hong Kong.

I have done this same thing on 4 other bikes here over the years and it is a simple process without drama....

So, hat's my opinion....
 

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Thanks for your advice...I really like the way yours looks and I really want to acheive this...So basically what your saying is I have to drill a hole thru my triple clamp.??? I'm willing to do that. I love the way it looks and I use my 900RR, for mostly long rides. need more comfort on the back and wrist...I've looked at diffrent options and there are risers that have one bolt and others have two(bolt/fastener). Wich do you suggest??? I guess if I use the two hole one, I would have to drill two holes per riser.
 

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Thanks for your advice...I really like the way yours looks and I really want to acheive this...So basically what your saying is I have to drill a hole thru my triple clamp.??? I'm willing to do that. I love the way it looks and I use my 900RR, for mostly long rides. need more comfort on the back and wrist...I've looked at diffrent options and there are risers that have one bolt and others have two(bolt/fastener). Wich do you suggest??? I guess if I use the two hole one, I would have to drill two holes per riser.
When SSB put the risers on his gixxer fighter I took the yoke, risers with the bars fitted to a local engineering shop and they did it for us for about £30. We didn't have the right equipment at home to do it ourselves at the time..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yep, drill the triple clamp.... compared to buying an LSL or HeyHo.... no comparison.

1 bolt risers are easily strong enough and MUCH EASIER to align squarely when doing the drilling.

Yes, you have to have it done in a shop.

Once you find the exact drilling spots to have it squarely aligned on the top triple (feel the underside of the top triple to be sure you the spot you choose is not drilling into a ridge or something), the drilling is simple at a shop. Should be very cheap to get done.

Take it home, bolt it up (the handlebars on the risers automatically position the risers as you bolt it up), move on with the rest of your project.
 

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Thanks! I really appreciate it! I think I made my choice. I'm gona do it. I'm gona go to Honda, in my area and pick a nice pair of dirt bike risers( matching ones). The ones with one hole, for eazy mounting. Their about 25$ plus tax. Beats the heck out of LSL, on the price and I get better looking risers. I already know the handlebars I want. Black Renthals 7/8...I'm good on the tail. I like the original tail cause it's fat and I can put alot of junk in there. Thanks again!
 
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