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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)



I know what you're asking..... Why ?

Because i like a challenge and more specifically i liked the Arashi rearsets and general quality of Arashi stuff out of China after taking a punt on the wave rotors a couple of years back, which btw are still going strong !!, but the rearsets only suited 04 onwards blades..... Challenge accepted.

So after some research into what other bikes had a 60mm bolt mount space (Centre hole to centre hole) i found the RSV4 was the donor to be......

So strap your nuts in cause here we go.........

WHAT YOU'LL NEED
Beer
Allen/Hex key set
8mm & 10mm Ring spanner (ratchet ringies make it a lot easier)
More beer
Blue Loctite (Threadlocker for those that don't have "Loctite" brand)
Needle nose pliers
20cm of 8mm Silicone hose
Tin snips
Beer​

THE PROCESS
Starting with the brake side first.... ENSURE YOU LOCTITE ALL BOLTS AND RE CHECK PERIODICALLY ON SECURITY !!!
Remove rear brake line from "keeper" on swingarm and undo rear brake reservoir bolt so the reservoir can move freely (make sure the lid is on tightly so you don't spill fluid everywhere !!)
Undo rear master cylinder from rear sets
Undo screw and remove standard brake pressure switch from rearset, unplug from wiring harness now or leave till later
Remove standard rearsets from frame by loosening the 2 hex head bolts
Grab the Arashi's and take them apart into 3 main components (as well as the footpeg off to the side..), these will be plainly evident once you start dismantling..
  1. Mounting bracket
  2. Brake lever assembly (BLA) (Pay attention to the right side hole that the heel plate attaches to as well)
  3. Heel guard
Mount the bracket to the frame using the new bolts provided
Take the brake lever assembly and mount this to the mounting bracket
Mount the rear master cylinder in a near vertical position with the bottom hole of the master cylinder mating to the right side hole of the heel plate bracket (see pics) NOTE: The top MC hole will remain open, like a fat chicks legs at nights end..., and you will use the left heel plate bolt with spacer to secure the MC in place (more on this shortly)

Once the MC is attached to the bracket slide the brake lever rod through the bottom eyelet and attach the E clip to secure
Insert and tighten the left side heel guard bolt until there is enough thread showing on the "inside" of the rearset to attach a nut
Attach said nut and ensuring it doesn't free spin, by pushing the bottom of the MC to the right, tighten it up so as the "spacer nut" is flush against the MC once you let it go. Adjust the nut (LOCTITE !!! ) accordingly to get the best fit. This negates the need for a top bolt on the MC.

On a side note i may end up running a longer RHS heel guard bolt for piece of mind as the standard one doesn't penetrate the MC mount fully...)​
Attach the brake lever return spring to the brake pedal and make a hook roughly 12 mm the other side of the spring
Thread the long end of the spring (again this will make sense once you see it) through the top most hole on the BLA (see pics) and cut off excess wire (this is just where i mounted it, it may work in other areas)


Remove standard brake hose (FLUID !!), Cut new silicone hose to 20mm (min), replace standard hose with this
Attach and remount hose/resorvoir ensuring you retain the larger, thicker hose to "guide" the smaller hose

Attach foot peg (May need to loosen off some bolts to get it in there..)
Refit brake line pressure switch if desired (mine hasn't arrived yet but VERY straight forward...)
Test and adjust, be mindful of and monitor the rear brake line rubbing on the swingarm.... i may end up attaching the "keeper" to the rear hugger as it pulls it just enough to avoid touching anything.
DONE !!!! Onto the other side !!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is the easy side !!

Back off all lock nuts etc. on the shift rod and remember that they will thread opposing directions so one will always seem "opposite" (just like a gas cylinder thread)
loosen securing bolt on the top of the gear selector arm and slide off the tranny spindle NOTE: Take notice of the approx angle of the arm for reinstall, it should be more or less pointing to the ground
Remove shift rod from standard rear sets and remove rear sets in the same manner as before
LOCTITE ALL BOLTS !!!
No need to take the Arashi's apart this time other than to make sure the shift rod is on the bottom hole so to avoid clearance issues with the stand when it's up

Replace the gear selector arm hex bolt with a M6 nut/bolt as the standard hex bolt won't "clamp" tight enough. Use the ring spanners to effect this.

Attach the new shift rod, with adjustment about halfway along the thread at both ends, onto the gear selector arm
Mount the Arashi's to the frame and attach the shift rod to the shift pedal
Double check all bolts and for correct shift mechanism NOTE: You may need to spin the rear wheel to do this slightly..... Don't ask me how long i dicked around with this before trying the simple option......
Test and adjust
DONE !!!


Overall the quality of these rearsets is exceptional and considering they were landed to Australia for $200 i can't fault them. Service was exceptionally fast, there are no blemishes or colour mis-match on the product, and all mounting hardware was good to go.

I'm planning on a decent ride this weekend with these on so i'll update accordingly, good or bad but based on the success of the wave rotors i think i may be happy with the outcome.

Oh and LOCTITE ALL BOLTS !!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK so i've been out a couple of times on the rearsets and the news is all good.

These things rock.

It took all of an hour to get used to them and the comfort levels increased substantially due to my not having to "reach" to change up gears.

The pegs themselves are a LOT smaller underfoot so you best get used to riding with the balls of your feet on the pegs unless your larding it through peak hour. That said the grip levels on my Forma Ice boots is exemplary and i've had no issue at all.

I've done a lot of side to side stuff on these at slow and fast speeds so the weight transfer (115KGS) fluctuated accordingly and the Arashi's held up with no issues.

If i had to fault them it'd be the time it takes to bleed the rear to a point where it's functional.... I thought i had it, trail braked, holy **** moment and then a re bleed when i got home so there is f^%k all movement on the rear pedal but it's not really a fault of the rearsets..... i installed an aftermarket rear brake switch and that sticks up a fair bit and looks a bit fugly but it's functional and keeps within the goalposts of legal mods.....

Oh and you know how i said Loctite all bolts........ Turns out i missed one..... Lucky i was pulling out of the driveway when i noticed.... It was my fault for not re-checking after the first ride.

So in summary i'd buy these again in a heartbeat and can't foresee any future issues but rest assured i'll do a periodic update as time goes by.....
 

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Nice write up. :thumb: Those rear sets are sweet. I'd be nice if they would fit a 94 900rr.

Get rid of that ugly stock reservoir and use the HRC Res Delete. They're only $20-25. It looks like it would clear the brake line better and give you a little more swingarm clearance too. Just a suggestion.
 
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