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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there all!

I have a 2002 CBR954RR that has been giving me some troubles. Here are the symptoms.

1. Super gunky spark plugs
2. Oil/slimy black stuff in the intake stacks and above the throttle body openings
3. Black smoke in exhaust. exhaust can is CAKED with carbon
4. Iridium plugs go bad (due to gunky-ness) VERY quickly. work okay when cleaned with electrical parts cleaner and a toothbrush (only until Tuesday when my new ones come in)
5. Rough Idle
6. Rougher Idle when the spark plugs are gunky (go figure)
7. Especially when cold a hand behind exhaust will become covered in black liquid (doesn't smell overwhelmingly like oil but not sure?)
8. Drinks oil pretty quickly
9. A ticking noise by the block that continued even immediately post a valve adjustment. :c


I checked my fuel pressure regulator by taking off the vacuum line and it was fine. I have taken out my PCV and it is stuck half open, I have ordered a new one and it is on it's way. When the PCV comes in I will open the bike up again and take pictures for you guys. I will also run a compression test and replace the spark plugs.

Does anyone know what my compression should be in PSI in each cylinder?

Thanks a bunch everyone! I'm not excited to hear what I'm pretty much expecting (piston rings) but at this point I just want my bike back in top running shape.

Help please? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I think I uploaded a photo,

yes I used paint, but until I take the bike apart again this is the best you'll get, where I put the black speckles is where there is a bunch of oil/carbon nastiness.

I promise I'll take better pictures asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I didn't see anything that would lead me to believe that the intake or exhaust is nasty throughout, there just appears to be a little oil in the intake manifold/throttle bodies. Also wouldn't that issue have been resolved when I got the valve adjustment? I got some pictures today and I'll upload them in just a moment.

HOWEVER, I did get to do a compression test today. Here are the results:

Bike temp: 150 Fahrenheit

From left to right as if I were sitting on the bike cylinders one through four.
I ran five tests per cylinder and will average them for you guys.

Cylinder one: 76 PSI
Cylinder two: 69 PSI
Cylinder three: 79 PSI
Cylinder four: 80 PSI

Needless to say I'm pretty certain cylinder two definitely needs piston rings. But would love to have someone tell me something different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are some of the pictures, on the intake stack I'm not certain if you can see it well enough, but there is a speckle that shouldn't be there, that speckle is greasy and black as well.

The rest of the photos are of the throttle bodies
 

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I didn't see anything that would lead me to believe that the intake or exhaust is nasty throughout, there just appears to be a little oil in the intake manifold/throttle bodies. Also wouldn't that issue have been resolved when I got the valve adjustment? I got some pictures today and I'll upload them in just a moment.

HOWEVER, I did get to do a compression test today. Here are the results:

Bike temp: 150 Fahrenheit

From left to right as if I were sitting on the bike cylinders one through four.
I ran five tests per cylinder and will average them for you guys.

Cylinder one: 76 PSI
Cylinder two: 69 PSI
Cylinder three: 79 PSI
Cylinder four: 80 PSI

Needless to say I'm pretty certain cylinder two definitely needs piston rings. But would love to have someone tell me something different.
Are you sure you had the gauge connected properly and held the throttle wide open for each test?? We're all the spark plugs removed??

Those numbers, if correct, are catastrophic. You should see well over 100 psi for each cylinder, with only about a 10% difference across the board.

Try the test again as mentioned but add a bit of oil to each spark plug hole. If the numbers jump up significantly then you have a ring/cylinder seal problem.

If that's the case I would suspect the cylinders are toast, seems to be a common theme on the 954, scored cylinders.
 

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In my case the scored cylinders and too big piston to cylinder wall clearence didn't affect the compression at all. Only symptons were piston slap. The alusil bores are much softer then coated cylinders so the rings seem still to seal. And those tb:s look dirty but the black substance on the bottom of the butterflys is moly coating from the factory to prevent the wear of the butterfly. And there can be little amounts of oil in the airbox. The breather connects straight to the airbox. Black smoke would indicate it's running too rich. If it would burn oil the smoke would be blue. My vote would still go to the fpr.
Does it smell like gasoline when it is running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alrighty everyone, I just got off work and had the opportunity to check youtube (instead of asking auto part store employees) how to do a compression test. It would appear I have run my test incorrectly and will post the new numbers soon.

But if anyone here can clarify my steps to ensure the next reading is accurate I would appreciate it.

1. Warm engine to operating temp
2. Get to spark plugs
3. remove all spark plugs, (not just the coils?)
4. insert appropriate compression test adapter
5. press starter and hold throttle wide open
6. read compression after multiple attempts to start (?)

and repeat for each cylinder?

Thank you all for your help I couldn't be more grateful!


(also in response to the possibility of catastrophic numbers, my bike with clean spark plugs still runs and pretty powerfully at that. Is that a pretty clear sign that I just tested incorrectly?)
 

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You just did the first compression test wrong. You'll get better numbers (guessing around 160-180?) when you do the test a second time. Assuming your compression gauge is reliable.
Don't rule out the fpr just yet, I've heard a couple cases where they seemed to check out (removing vac line) yet problems went away after replacing it anyway.
You mentioned excessive carbon, sounds like you've been running rich for a while, or maybe just at certain rpm's. Maybe a leaking fpr, or the fuel map in your PCV?
Has your bike been sitting or stored for awhile? How old is your fpr?
I hate to say throw new parts at it, but I'd consider putting a new fpr in along with the new plugs and see how it runs.
If you put new plugs and the old fpr is leaking, it might not take long to foul a plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You just did the first compression test wrong. You'll get better numbers (guessing around 160-180?) when you do the test a second time. Assuming your compression gauge is reliable.
Don't rule out the fpr just yet, I've heard a couple cases where they seemed to check out (removing vac line) yet problems went away after replacing it anyway.
You mentioned excessive carbon, sounds like you've been running rich for a while, or maybe just at certain rpm's. Maybe a leaking fpr, or the fuel map in your PCV?
Has your bike been sitting or stored for awhile? How old is your fpr?
I hate to say throw new parts at it, but I'd consider putting a new fpr in along with the new plugs and see how it runs.
If you put new plugs and the old fpr is leaking, it might not take long to foul a plug.

You're definitely right, I will probably order the new FPR within the month and the new PCV will be here by next week. I'm really hoping that these are the only issues. Would the PCV being stuck half open have anything to do with the loss (eating, burning, whatever) of oil?

Not to mention I'd rather throw a few new parts at it then tear it apart to get to the cylinders to find that they are fine. Scary stuff.
 

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I use a PCIII, but I'm not understanding what you mean by stuck half open.
Are you running Auto Tune with it?
As long as you've unhooked the PC's cables and reconnected the bike's main harness into itself, (and O2 sensor if applicable), you've effectively removed the PC from the picture here.

How long have you had the bike and how much oil is it burning? how much have you added since your last change and how many miles ago was that?

Do the compression test and let us know what you get.
Also, not to keep harping on the fpr, but after you pulled the vac line, you turned on the ignition to prime the pump, right?
 

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I use a PCIII, but I'm not understanding what you mean by stuck half open.
Are you running Auto Tune with it?
As long as you've unhooked the PC's cables and reconnected the bike's main harness into itself, (and O2 sensor if applicable), you've effectively removed the PC from the picture here.

How long have you had the bike and how much oil is it burning? how much have you added since your last change and how many miles ago was that?

Do the compression test and let us know what you get.
Also, not to keep harping on the fpr, but after you pulled the vac line, you turned on the ignition to prime the pump, right?

I'm tossing this out here as a carb guy (no duh, right? lol), but when I see you FI guys always posting PCV all I think of is the Positive Crankcase pressure Valve, is it possible that's what SageWolfe is trying to refer to as stuck half open??:idunno:

Even so, pretty sure these bikes don't have a PCV valve. But I had to toss this out there because I'm slooooow :p
 

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No worries IanDoohan. PCV = Power Commander 5 is what I believe OP is talking about..
As opposed to the Power Commander 3 that I mentioned earlier.

That help?:plunge:
 

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SageWolfe, make sure you have the kill switch set to kill. That kills your fuel pump. Then hold the throttle wide open, then thumb the starter for about 2 or 3 seconds. you should easily hit your peak compression number by then.
 

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No worries IanDoohan. PCV = Power Commander 5 is what I believe OP is talking about..
As opposed to the Power Commander 3 that I mentioned earlier.

That help?:plunge:
lol It took me a good few posts early on to realize what you guys meant when I saw PCV. Even though I know we refer to it as the Power Commander 5, I can't help but think it's the stupid valve :bonk:
 

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How much does it ''drink'' oil? 954 rarely burn any oil if there isn't any fault. Valve stem seals, piston rings, leak somewhere or clogged breather. If the breather is clogged the pressure in the crankcase will push oil through the piston rings to cylinders.

How can a power commerder by stuck half way open or do you mean the exhaust valve (htev)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi there guys!

1: by PCV I actually do mean the pressure control valve, pair valve, or other little silly intake valvey thing that has three holes that go to tubing to my airbox and top of the motor and such, I can send a link to what I'm talking about for sure but yeah, I'm way too broke for a power commander.
2: My starting motor will not try to crank if the kill switch is set to kill, but I'm fairly certain that the motor cannot start without the sparkplugs so removing all of them should keep me safe there right?

Good call IanDoohan, trust your gut!
 

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It's called pair and it has nothing to do with pressure control. It's for emissions purposes. I would get block-off plates and remove it. You can remove the fuse of the ignition/ecu and it will crank without spark and fuel from the injectors.
 

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Still looking forward to your "correct" compression readings, 'cause like Ian said, your first numbers would be horribly low. I'm guessing you didn't hold the throtttle bodies open, maybe? Bad rings could pressurize the crankcase enough to force oil up into the airbox and cause the "gunkiness" you mentioned, as well as the oil consumption and dirty exhaust. Did you say how many miles are on it? If you do foul another set of plugs, please don't throw them out. Send them to me, I have a cleaner/tester, I'll make good use of them!

BTW Ian, those Roman numerals get me too, what were they thinking?:banghead:

Long live the CBR CMLIV RR! :smilierr:
 
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