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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for some advise on how to do this the "best" way possible, not the cheapest way. The bike will be used for street and track. I want to make about 170hp at the crank and still have it be reliable enough for the street. This doesn't seem that much to ask. I was thinking 13.2:1 compression pistons with a port and polished head, and a bazzaz with auto-tune. Would this be enough or should I go another route ie. cams, port and polish, valves w/springs and a bazzaz w/ auto-tune?
 

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I am looking for some advise on how to do this the "best" way possible, not the cheapest way. The bike will be used for street and track. I want to make about 170hp at the crank and still have it be reliable enough for the street. This doesn't seem that much to ask. I was thinking 13.2:1 compression pistons with a port and polished head, and a bazzaz with auto-tune. Would this be enough or should I go another route ie. cams, port and polish, valves w/springs and a bazzaz w/ auto-tune?

170bhp would be around 155hp so I can't see it being that hard to achieve (bhp is measured on an engine dyno at the crank, hp is measured on a dyno at the wheels).
You are already running a good full race exhaust system I assume?
Have you dynoed it already to see where it's at currently?
The engine is currently strong, it doesn't have any problems?
If you're okay with the expense of rebuilding the engine anyway I would just throw in some 76mm 13.5:1 pistons. With a good exhaust system, PC3 and dyno-tuning that should get you pretty close to your goal.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
170bhp would be around 155hp so I can't see it being that hard to achieve (bhp is measured on an engine dyno at the crank, hp is measured on a dyno at the wheels).
You are already running a good full race exhaust system I assume?
Have you dynoed it already to see where it's at currently?
The engine is currently strong, it doesn't have any problems?
If you're okay with the expense of rebuilding the engine anyway I would just throw in some 76mm 13.5:1 pistons. With a good exhaust system, PC3 and dyno-tuning that should get you pretty close to your goal.
I have the yoshi trs system on it right now and I've heard some things about the bigger bore kit being unreliable which is why I was thinking the 75mm 13.2:1 pistons but the bottom end is still really strong right now so I'm thinking maybe I can get all the power I need by just doing head work?
 

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I have the yoshi trs system on it right now and I've heard some things about the bigger bore kit being unreliable which is why I was thinking the 75mm 13.2:1 pistons but the bottom end is still really strong right now so I'm thinking maybe I can get all the power I need by just doing head work?

I don't think the +1mm over-bore is a problem but certainly any further would cause problems with bore flex.
I wouldn't think any improvement just from porting is going to be worth pulling the engine for but it wouldn't be a bad thing to do. I'd just throw some cams in with the exhaust system, get a fuel controller and have it tuned to suit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Parts list what do you think? Or what would you change?

Camshafts: Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts / Honda CBR 954 RR (02-03) DOHC 16v Timing Card

Fuel Controlled:
Bazzaz.net - Z-AFM Self-Mapping Kit
&
Bazzaz.net - Z-Fi CBR954RR 02-03

Ferrea Valves with Port and Polish. Not sure if the 929 valves are the same as the 954 but I would call Ferrea when the time came.

I would think this alone would easily get me there. Without even touching the bottom end. I mean it's only 20 crank hp over stock that I'm looking for.
 

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Parts list what do you think? Or what would you change?

Camshafts: Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts / Honda CBR 954 RR (02-03) DOHC 16v Timing Card

Fuel Controlled:
Bazzaz.net - Z-AFM Self-Mapping Kit
&
Bazzaz.net - Z-Fi CBR954RR 02-03

Ferrea Valves with Port and Polish. Not sure if the 929 valves are the same as the 954 but I would call Ferrea when the time came.

I would think this alone would easily get me there. Without even touching the bottom end. I mean it's only 20 crank hp over stock that I'm looking for.

Why would you want to change the valves?
Yes, the 929 and 954 run the same valves.
I would just get cams and a fuel controller.
 

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I was thinking of getting oversized valves but the cost might outweigh the benifit
Over-size valves is a whole different ballgame to "Ferea valves and port and polish" :)
I would price up the cost of parts and machining before getting too excited about bigger valves. If you're determined to pull the engine then it's certainly an option, but I would think the hp-per-dollar will be poor. And it shouldn't be necessary to reach your 170bhp goal anyway.

As an example, APE can port your head for $1000.
Untitled Document
Over-size valves would be $280 to install and $500 to buy, plus springs and retainers.
APE - Cylinder Heads

I would think you would do better to simply use the money to replace your Yosh system with a top-tier one like Akrapovic, Arrow, Sato and such. Going full-titanium would give you a good weight reduction as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sounds good that will be the plan then:
Full ti exhaust
Cams
Fuel controller

Thanks for the info, it helps to collaborate on stuff like this!
 
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