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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, well I bought an APE Cam Chain Tensioner becuase from what everyone I've talked to said it sounds like mine is going. So finally I gathered up the spirit to do this. Being pretty new I'm not even 100% positive I'm doing the right thing... It's right behind the second bolt holding the engine on. (Second bolt to the left, (like there is your slider bar, then the next large bolt) it's right behind htat right?) Well anyways I got the first bolt off on the further side, but the closer one is VERY VERY close to the frame, and I struggled for several hours to try and get it off with no luck.

Any suggestions other than dropping the engine?

Also is this covered under warranty... I should have asked that before I even started... meh

-drew
 

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what was it doing to make you think it was on its way out??
i amthinking of getting one too, as my bike sounds liek someone has thrown some marbles in it, under fast full throttle, at about 3000-4500rpm....
im pretty sure thats what it is, but am curious as to what noises your was making?
Also,
do you need to just undo the outside two bolts, or do i need to loosen the centre (adjuster) nut as well??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok this might be a stupid quesiton, but if you drop the bike would that void the warranty?

I dropped the bike, just scratched it up a bit, (almost back to 100% new, other htan exhaust is still scratched up a bit.)

Also would removing the mud flap & getting in-line signals void the warranty?
 

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If you need any help with your CCT, let me know, I did mine about a year ago. I also had a mishap as well. Be sure once the CCT is on, the lock nut is tight. Bad things can happen.

It happened to me.

Do a search ON CCT's here and on CycleForums. Im sure you can find one of my lengthy posts.

FYI, here's a link to some pics I took
http://victorjr.users.superford.org/pictures/929rr/cct/index.html
 

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I took the cam chain tentioner apart from a CBR600F4 (similar, if not the same as the fireblade CCT), and it is a very simple mechanism. Nothing breaks, it just starts to bind up. I would try cleaning it, lubing it, and putting it back in. I would also try cycling the spring mechanism before removing anything by using the little tool that you can make for free (need a little piece of metal first). The easiest way to access the CCT on the 954 is to remove the plastic on the right side, prop up the tank, and remove the air box. It also helps to unhook a few harnesses blocking access to the CCT. The schematic on the tool is in the 929 manual, and also posted on this site. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well you guys inspired me to do it myslef...

bad move lol...

Well the old one is out, the new one is in. My fav tool got stuck on the bolt several times (a ratcheting 8mm wrench was stuck between frame & bolt)

Anyways my question... how much did you tighten yours? before you originally tightened it. I understand that once you get the orig spot, you tighten it untill the ticketing noise is almost gone?

Thanks again.

drew
 

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You're gunna have to play with it a little. Tighten till the rattling sound goes away. Do NOT overtighten by anymeans. The results could be catastrophic.

Though a little more work, I removed my clutch cover and checked the tension of my cam chain as I tightened it after the noise went away. Just to be sure there wasn't TOO much tension on the chain.

I know it sounds like a ton of work, but it could end up saving you tons of $$ to repair bad valves or even worse, a snapped cam chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well i did play with it alot. And the rattling ..it seems to be coming from the front of the engine right?

Just give me an idea how far your's is sticking out would give me a decent starting spot, becuase of right now, reading more threads of yours etc, it sounds like if you tighten too much the RPM will go down, so I backed it out more, and the RPM went up? I'm sure that's too lose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't hear any change in sounds no matter what I do tighten or loosen... wtf is wrong with this? It sounds the smae the whole time, idle & rev. (other than the idle rpm chaning a little when it was really loose. I'm changing the direction maybe 3 turns each time...)

this thing is driving me insane....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
A local guy said to tighten it untill you hear/see the rpm's go down, then back it out 1/2 turn.

Does that sound reasonable? Or would you back it out more or less?
 

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I have the top of my bolt sticking out about 1".

When I mentioned taking off the clutch cover, please do that. Check the tension with a pick of some sort. You should have a little play. About 2mm-4mm of lateral movement.

Just tighten till the noise goes away. You're still gunna have some valvetrain noise that you haddn't heard much before since it's a manual cct.

The hydraulic one absorbs some of that vibration and deadens the sounds a little. Since the manual is a rugged piece, you're gunna have a little more noise.

This might not make sense to some people, but it did to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ahh been a while, been busy with school / work...

Anyways...

Can you remove the clutch cover if it's on the stand (kick stand) without removing the oil? It seems to me like the oil would not come out if one were to do it while it's kinda on the slant?

Thanks,
Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #16
victoRR said:
I have the top of my bolt sticking out about 1".

When I mentioned taking off the clutch cover, please do that. Check the tension with a pick of some sort. You should have a little play. About 2mm-4mm of lateral movement.

Just tighten till the noise goes away. You're still gunna have some valvetrain noise that you haddn't heard much before since it's a manual cct.

The hydraulic one absorbs some of that vibration and deadens the sounds a little. Since the manual is a rugged piece, you're gunna have a little more noise.

This might not make sense to some people, but it did to me.
Ok I was able to take the clutch cover off without a problem, no oil leaked :-D...


Anyways as far as checking the tension, I see the plastic peice, did you check it there by moving the plastic peice? Or did you wedge the pick between the chain and the top part, and saw how far you could move the chain?

Thanks!
Drew
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well that was not the problem...


I took it out for a minor spin, and the squeaking sound was still there, I'm putting the stock tensioner back on and taking it back to Honda and giving it to them (since it is under warranty! :-\)

Drew
 
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