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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 honda cbr929rr. Im getting some knocking noise inbetween my feet when im riding. seems to stop when I lube the chain. I pulled the sprocket cover and in the front the sprocket rides to the left inside of the chain. But rides to the right on the rear sprocket. I am assuming that is where my knocking is coming from and the chain needs to be adjusted. Not sure how to do this. Is this some thing i should attempt. Or is this not a problem? I just got this bike and am having the service manual that was on cd printed out. getting it soon i hope. Those of you with expierience please let me know.
 

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You need to check your wheel alignment and make sure the rear wheel has the spacers on the correct sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how do i do that. the shop i had it at measured the space on each side and said it was good. How much play is suppose to be in the chain. when I ride you can see the chain bouncing up and down.. on the swing arm it says there is suppose to be 1" and 3/4 play in the chain. is that to much to little? This is my first bike and ive had it for at most 2 months. Im learning alot but i cant afford to take it to the shop all the g d time. its getting old sinking money into some thing that i thought was good when i bought it. this sight has seemed to help alot already.
 

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A shop checked your alignment but didn't notice the chain was loose or missaligned?

Have you got a manual?
If you don't want to be taking it to the dealer then it makes sense to get yourself a manual.

To adjust the chain you need to turn the wheel slowly while checking the tension in the bottom run of the chain until you find the tightest point in the chain. If it's really loose you might have to adjust it first to get it tight enough to check it. If the sprocket teeth are badly worn you need new chain and sprockets. If the chain is badly worn you may find it still hits the swingarm in places even when correctly tensioned.
If the chain is filthy clean it first with some kerosene or WD-40 and wipe it dry with rag.
Loosen the axle nut.
Loosen the axle adjuster lock nuts.
Turn each adjusting bolt the same number of turns to push the axle backwards to tighten the chain.
When the chain is tight enough that it doesn't hit the swingarm, rotate the wheel until you find the tightest point in the chain.
Adjust the adjusting bolts until you have _that_ point set to the minimum chain tension. Rotate the wheel again to ensure it isn't too tight anywhere else.
Make sure both chain adjuster blocks are in the same position in the swingarm. The most accurate is to measure from the centre of the swingarm pivot to the centre of the axle on both sides but there are also marks cast into the swingarm near the adjusters.
Tighten the locknuts and then the axle nut and check the tension hasn't changed.
Ride around the block to dry and warm the chain and then lube it and let it sit for fifteen minutes for the lube to soak in.

If the chain is wearing as you say but isn't badly aligned then you need to check the wheel spacers. I think the 12mm one is on the LHS and the 13.5mm on the RHS but check the manual or parts fiche.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the manual that was given to me was on a disk. I have a friend that has printed it out for me and im hoping to pick it up today or tommorow. Like i said im new at the hole bike thing. I am pretty good when it comes to hands on stuff. I have worked on cars and all that. If I dont think i can do it right I wont do it. So when I get the manual ill look it over and go from there. How hard is it to replace a stator. I have another problem with the charging system and thought it was the head lights but still not 100% on that yet. going to try to chage the bulbs out. The problem is the system wont charge the battery if the lights or on high beam. if its on low it will. I have au-lights 55watt holagen bulbs in there now.
 

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It's pretty straightforward replacing the stator but you will need a short M20 bolt to pull it off the crank.
If you own a Honda you need to invest in a multimeter :)
Check the voltage at the battery when the bike is idling. If the voltage is rising then the stator and regulator should be okay.
If the voltage is falling slowly then the battery is not being charged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
do you know what the specs should be. ive been told 13v at about 3000 rpm. sound about right? also do you know what size headlights should be in this bike?
 

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Headlights are 55W.
Voltage should be a bit more than 13 but any less indicates a problem.
Any dealer of metric hardware should be able to supply the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
lubed the chain and the knocking stopped. Does that mean the chain just needed lube? Ill have to keep track of the milage. I didnt think I put that many miles on it since the last time i sprayed it. There is a little build up on the outside edge of the links though. A friend of mine thats been riding a long time said it didnt look bad to him. He has never ridin a rocket though. He is use to cruisers. Is a little build up on the chain a big deal with rockets???
 

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Not sure what you mean by build up exactly but a clean chain is important for long life.
If it's dirty when you lube it you're actually using the lube to transfer the dirt into the rings. The oil and dirt then form a grinding paste which causes excessive wear.
Cleaning the chain before lubing is good maintenance for maximum life.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so you said earlier that i should clean it with wd40 then wipe it with a dry rag. is that the best thing to use? also when its clean and i grease it up again what kind of lube should i use. Ill have look and see what the shop i had the bike at gave me. At this point you should know my confidence in that shop. When they tell my charging system is tip top then i go on a ride and the first thing the bike does is die i wonder if they know what the f=== there doing. still dont have the manual. my friend that printed it off for me went into the hosp. he should be out by now nothing to serious but hes not one to sit around.
 

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For cleaning the chain I personally prefer a cake tin under the bike, some kero and a stiff brush. Don't use a degreaser or solvents though.
Generally, any spray-on chain lube should be fine.
If you don't like cleaning the crap off the back of your bike you could use a light oil like INOX but you need to lube it a lot more regularly.
If you let the bike sit for a while after spraying it on you get less fling.

I feel the same about all mechanics and don't trust anybody to touch my vehicles :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so your talking kerosene right? just that and scrubing the caked sh.. off? like a wire type brush or just a dish type brush? i took my bike out after lubing the chaing. ive put oh 50 miles or so and havnt heard any thing. so i guess that was it. i am going to clean it though just to make sure its clean enough. about the sprocket though. it rides inbetween both sides of the chain. although on the back it rides a little to the right and on the front it rides to the left. is that ok??? its not touching either side its just no perfectly centered
 

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You shouldn't really need to scrub it as most of the crud should just wash off but I use a parts cleaning brush which is round and very stiff.
You might have a miss-matched chain and sprocket.
Both should have the sizes on them somewhere.
A 520 sprocket with a 530 chain for example would allow 1/8" of lateral movement on the rollers.
 

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Only cause I took my rear tire off the 929 last night.
The collor on the brake side is a simple cylinder. The collor on the Chain side has a flange on it and the flange rests against the swingarm. Bladeracer has you set on the details.
 

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You need to check to see if the wheel is aligned. Just look at the swingarm for verticle lines that look like you see on a ruler. Make sure that boths sides are at the exact same point. If not, loosen the big axle nut (its a 32mm). Then look for the bolt that pushes the wheel from the swingarm. Loosen the lock nut then turn the bolt (tighten clockwise like normal to decrease the distance). Once both sides are lined up it's aligned. You can then torque the axle bolt. It is either 72ft lbs or 78ft lbs. You may want to make sure the chain slack is correct before tightening anything. You just use that adjusting bolt to tighten or loosen the chain slack. Once it's correct, match up the alignment like we just talked about and tighten the axle bolt.
 

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The alignment hash marks on the swingarm are not accurate. You need to measure the distance between the swingarm pivot and the rear axle to ensure correct alignment. The correct rear axle nut torque is 83 ft·lbf
 

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Why would they put the marks there is they are not accurate? Is there some horizontal flex in the mounting of the swingarm? I'm confused.
 

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They _may_ be accurate but are not always.
Check the distance from the swingarm pivot to the axle on both sides to confirm it's correct.
The marks are cast into the ends of the swingarm and then those and the pivot tube are welded into the arm. Errors _can_ occur although modern bikes aren't as bad as older ones were.
 
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