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Discussion Starter #1
Had all of this on the facebook group, but looks like i need some more in depth technical expertise.

Bike died one day, bout a month ago. Took it to autozone and they tested the battery good, charging system bad. cherged the battery to full, got my multimeter, and did the diode test on the R/R.

3 of the 4 tests PASSED, the one that failed was when i put the red test lead to the black wire coming out of the R/R. I was supposed to get ~500 on the multimeter, but i got OL instead. Bad R/R. To ensure the stator was not bad, I went to the Electrosport fault testing and all tests passed except the R/R.

Ordered a brand new one from Rick's Motorsport, referred highly. Just got it in and swapped it in. Tested exactly the same as the original, 3 tests passed, same test failed. Went to the Electrosport fault page and this time the voltage on the black R/R wire was LESS than the battery voltage, which the fault guide says there is a bad connection between the ignition switch.

This test passed the first time, so what the hell do I check now? Not sure which connectors are which, but they passed the first time and with a new R/R now the voltage dropped. So should I suspect that I got a bad R/R from Rick's or start looking somewhere else?
 

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What kind of voltage are you getting with the bike running at idle? How about at 3,000rpms? If your doing the diode test correctly then there may be something to be concerned about, but if the bike is charging properly what's it matter?
 

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What kind of voltage are you getting with the bike running at idle? How about at 3,000rpms? If your doing the diode test correctly then there may be something to be concerned about, but if the bike is charging properly what's it matter?
Kind of agree with Matt here. I'm assuming because you had a bad "test of the unit" you're talking about the RR being replaced, then same test on new one failed same? As Matt asks, did you fire up the bike with all connected and check output voltage across the battery so see if it's up near 13VDC? I always recommend changing a battery regardless of how it tests when the charging system is in question. When they drain to nothing they are usually DOA and can't be resuscitated.

Do the running checks and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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if its running 13.4-14.8 volts running, your battery is being charged the way it should be and the r/r is doing its job.
 

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12.55 today, and it's been unplugged when not troubleshooting and has lost .1 since I fully charged it (was 12.6)
12.7 or above is considered fully charged, so your 12.6 given a margin of error sounds good. But your running numbers are still spot on. I would still question the battery. How old and what kind is it?
 

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Could be a dry joint. A multimeter will show a low resistance but when you pass a current through it then it will become a high resistance I.e. A dry joint.
Only way to actually test is to use a test lamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So basically what you are saying is that when the engine is running, and the voltage is increasing over the standing no-load voltage of 12.6, then the stator is sending voltage back to the battery (shown by the increasing voltage at idle and higher revs) then the battery is likely at fault for not being able to hold the charge?
 

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So basically what you are saying is that when the engine is running, and the voltage is increasing over the standing no-load voltage of 12.6, then the stator is sending voltage back to the battery (shown by the increasing voltage at idle and higher revs) then the battery is likely at fault for not being able to hold the charge?
That's pretty much exactly it in a nutshell. But for clarification the stator's AC voltage goes right to the reg/rec, where it gets regulated and rectified to DCV, then gets sent out to the bikes peripherals, battery, lights, Ignition, etc.

If the stator wasn't working there would be no AC voltage for the rectifier to convert and the bike would die as soon as the battery reached a level where it couldn't run all the electronics (injectors, coils, lights, etc). If the rectifier crapped the bed, then the system would be getting ACV or NO Volts, which is BAD.

If the regulator was bad, then there would be a constant and acute drain of all battery voltage until the bike stopped running (zero battery voltage), or your test numbers would show a catastrophicly high charging voltage number (+15VDC) while running, which tends to fry everything in the system, especially the battery.

For haha's, check the starter solenoid connector and related stator and reg/rec connectors for scorching or melting. I know you didn't notice any when changing reg rec, but just to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Haven't touched the bike in about a week, busy with work. went out and check ed the battery, it's at 12.44V now, just sitting. Should I assume a new battery may be in order? Is there a way to test this? Autozone charged my battery to full and said it was good, but honestly it's Autozone...so i dunno...
 

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Haven't touched the bike in about a week, busy with work. went out and check ed the battery, it's at 12.44V now, just sitting. Should I assume a new battery may be in order? Is there a way to test this? Autozone charged my battery to full and said it was good, but honestly it's Autozone...so i dunno...
12.4 would be considered a dead battery. Either the battery IS bad, or you have a small draw on it while it's off. I would bet on the bad battery. IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay well I did some more google searching and found a way to test by checking voltage drop when the starter is engaged. Voltage dropped to 4.xx and hung around. So looking at everything everyone here said and this test looks like a battery. I don't know how to do the current draw test but I'll check just for peace of mind
 
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