Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 20 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
97 blade. what i assume are stock clips on but they are very short when i compare them to my buddies bikes.

I noticed if i pull my left clip on at the bar weight. the whole inner tube will slide out. Its all white n looks old. Im going to assume this is bad. So looking to replace the clip ons (and buy a new helmet that fits those with wide/full faces / big heads).

Any advice or suggestions

I seen a bunch of ebay ones for 48+ which is a price range i like. I dont mind the riding position yet so let me know! (not a track racer...yet)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,042 Posts
I haven't replaced mine yet, but I'd say that would one of those areas where cheap might not = good. A failure at the controls due to crap aluminum would not be a good thing.
I would go with a name brand on those. Vortex, Graves, LSL, Woodcraft etc. Basically anything that is used in racing. Most of them go for about $100 +.
Just like frame sliders. Use a name brand. The cheap ones don't work. (ask me how I know)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
97 blade. what i assume are stock clips on but they are very short when i compare them to my buddies bikes.

I noticed if i pull my left clip on at the bar weight. the whole inner tube will slide out. Its all white n looks old. Im going to assume this is bad. So looking to replace the clip ons (and buy a new helmet that fits those with wide/full faces / big heads).

Any advice or suggestions

I seen a bunch of ebay ones for 48+ which is a price range i like. I dont mind the riding position yet so let me know! (not a track racer...yet)
I have some oem one's???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,132 Posts
I have some oem one's???
I was going to suggest finding some OEM replacements or used ones on fleabay. Should be a fair price to get used, and you know they are good quality. The rough part is that some of the used ones may not be any better than what you have on now. IMO, clip-ons are clip-ons. Switching out your grips and/or levers do more for the looks than switching out the clip-ons anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
well my main problem is now i have lost two sets of bar ends. they just fall of at high speeds. its annoying.also that piece i talked about coming out clean? well i just found out its all gone. so inside my clutch side bars there is nothing. no weight, no screw in piece. nothing its all gone....what do i do now??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
well my main problem is now i have lost two sets of bar ends. they just fall of at high speeds. its annoying.also that piece i talked about coming out clean? well i just found out its all gone. so inside my clutch side bars there is nothing. no weight, no screw in piece. nothing its all gone....what do i do now??
wow, those things are hard to get out!!!! they have them on line for 20$ bucks! E-bay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I have another question. will different years fit? i see a few 98 listings on ebay and one for a 96. They look the same in pictures but can anyone verify if they indeed will fit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts

Here is a part diagram of the bars of a '98. I forget which year you have. The bars did change slightly from year to year to adjust ergonomics, I think 98-99 was the highest version for more comfort.

Anyways, point is #7 is the inner weight you refer to. It is made of cast ally and is in a water trap (no drain hole) so unfortunately over time it can corrode, but it's not a problem on this part. It is damped against vibration by rubbers #9 and #10. The whole assembly is only held in by spring clip #11. When you remove the inner weight (who knows why you would except to replace an accident damaged part) you almost invariably will bust spring clip #11 trying to get it out. If you are particularly cheap or unknowing or too proud to ask on a forum (sounds like your bike's PO was all these things) you might try and put it back together with a broken spring clip and hope the friction of the rubbers will hold it together. Well, it won't. So you need a new inner weight now, and the rubbers, and the spring clip. It'll probably be cheaper to get a complete clip-on from eBay to be honest, plus then you have a spare for if/when you lay the bike down. Even a parking lot drop can bend a clip-on pretty easy. You will notice the weights in both sides are symettrical, so I recommend get a RHS bar if the choice is yours, as a bent RHS bar will stop you riding b/c the throttle won't move correctly, so it's the more important to have a spare of if you don't have both. Obviously, go to your honda dealer and get one or two of those spring clips also.

I wouldn't bother with race clip-ons unless you like cramp in your wrists and trying to look through the top of your new full-face helmet, which is also going to give you a sore neck. Just get the stock ones working right. If you get stock working right, you'll also avoid industrial white knuckle (exaggeration) due to the damping weights. But seriously you can get numb hands from vibration after a while especially if you find your bike's tingle frequency is highway RPM - aftermarket bars don't have any weights in, because they are for racing and weights are heavy. So are wheel balancing weights would be my argument but whatever. For the same reason, get stock bar end weights or for example some are sold on eBay as heavy or anti-vibration bar end weights. The aluminium aftermarket parts don't do ****.

As far as #16 goes, these are just m6x65 countersunk screws, I recommend going to eBay and buying a pack of stainless allen screws, these look nicer, don't rust and the allen head is easier to use and less likely to round out. I just searched for you, turns out no-one is selling this stuff in north america, god bless you crazy guys for sticking stoically to the imperial system! Anyways. These screws should be sealed in with a few drops of blue threadlock, don't overdo it but don't forget it either or you will keep the inside weight but lose the outer.

Parts drawing with full honda part numbers from here: Fast shipping. Up to 40% off Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Polaris OEM motorcycle parts and accessories. Deep reseller discounts. You can open up the pages for each year model and cross-check part numbers. I'm helpful, but that's boring and ICBA :)
http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2503609&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1998&fveh=132042#.UeNCmW0fqf9
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #11

Here is a part diagram of the bars of a '98. I forget which year you have. The bars did change slightly from year to year to adjust ergonomics, I think 98-99 was the highest version for more comfort.

Anyways, point is #7 is the inner weight you refer to. It is made of cast ally and is in a water trap (no drain hole) so unfortunately over time it can corrode, but it's not a problem on this part. It is damped against vibration by rubbers #9 and #10. The whole assembly is only held in by spring clip #11. When you remove the inner weight (who knows why you would except to replace an accident damaged part) you almost invariably will bust spring clip #11 trying to get it out. If you are particularly cheap or unknowing or too proud to ask on a forum (sounds like your bike's PO was all these things) you might try and put it back together with a broken spring clip and hope the friction of the rubbers will hold it together. Well, it won't. So you need a new inner weight now, and the rubbers, and the spring clip. It'll probably be cheaper to get a complete clip-on from eBay to be honest, plus then you have a spare for if/when you lay the bike down. Even a parking lot drop can bend a clip-on pretty easy. You will notice the weights in both sides are symettrical, so I recommend get a RHS bar if the choice is yours, as a bent RHS bar will stop you riding b/c the throttle won't move correctly, so it's the more important to have a spare of if you don't have both. Obviously, go to your honda dealer and get one or two of those spring clips also.

I wouldn't bother with race clip-ons unless you like cramp in your wrists and trying to look through the top of your new full-face helmet, which is also going to give you a sore neck. Just get the stock ones working right. If you get stock working right, you'll also avoid industrial white knuckle (exaggeration) due to the damping weights. But seriously you can get numb hands from vibration after a while especially if you find your bike's tingle frequency is highway RPM - aftermarket bars don't have any weights in, because they are for racing and weights are heavy. So are wheel balancing weights would be my argument but whatever. For the same reason, get stock bar end weights or for example some are sold on eBay as heavy or anti-vibration bar end weights. The aluminium aftermarket parts don't do ****.

As far as #16 goes, these are just m6x65 countersunk screws, I recommend going to eBay and buying a pack of stainless allen screws, these look nicer, don't rust and the allen head is easier to use and less likely to round out. I just searched for you, turns out no-one is selling this stuff in north america, god bless you crazy guys for sticking stoically to the imperial system! Anyways. These screws should be sealed in with a few drops of blue threadlock, don't overdo it but don't forget it either or you will keep the inside weight but lose the outer.

Parts drawing with full honda part numbers from here: Fast shipping. Up to 40% off Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Polaris OEM motorcycle parts and accessories. Deep reseller discounts. You can open up the pages for each year model and cross-check part numbers. I'm helpful, but that's boring and ICBA :)
i hvae a 97 but holy christ that was so much info!




I do hate the fact we dont use metric.....

im gonna go on ebay now and look for 98 or so RH and LHS bars. Thanks so much. i will let you know how it goes and what i find.

ICBA???? whats that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,455 Posts
Frozone - did you make that vid?
Dude! you got serious ADHD!
:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

I made it through about 20 seconds and was looking like this - :googly:


Get some used OEM's that haven't been crashed. That's my advice. about $50-100. Might take some patience though. :evilaugh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Is the steering lock engaged? That would hold the top yoke (tree) on. Really you should lift the bike off the ground for this but usually you don't have to. It could be held in because a fork is bent, or just simply the weight of the bike bearing down and holding it together. Hold the front brake on (zip tie) and sit on and wiggle the bike back and forth with your knees. This should allow you to lift the clamp off using both hands when it's all 100% lined up.

Add wd40 in case there's any corrosion holding it together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
My problem is I can't get the top triple tree off. It's stuck n it's frustrating I have all the parts but it won't move
 

·
President: Team Full Chat
Joined
·
7,992 Posts
My problem is I can't get the top triple tree off. It's stuck n it's frustrating I have all the parts but it won't move
I would suggest you get the front end off the ground, stable enough to work the top clamp off. There will be for forces at work that will slightly put pressure on the fork tubes, enough to keep the top clamp from pulling off the stem. Especially if your bars are turned like that. Get the front wheel off the ground. You might also want to take a little more apart, such as your upper fairing stay. Just in case you get really pissed and smash something you really don't want to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Is the steering lock engaged? That would hold the top yoke (tree) on. Really you should lift the bike off the ground for this but usually you don't have to. It could be held in because a fork is bent, or just simply the weight of the bike bearing down and holding it together. Hold the front brake on (zip tie) and sit on and wiggle the bike back and forth with your knees. This should allow you to lift the clamp off using both hands when it's all 100% lined up.

Add wd40 in case there's any corrosion holding it together.
My problem is I can't get the top triple tree off. It's stuck n it's frustrating I have all the parts but it won't move
Yes. I read your problem and give you your solution. It will work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Frozone - did you make that vid?
Dude! you got serious ADHD!
:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

I made it through about 20 seconds and was looking like this - :googly:


Get some used OEM's that haven't been crashed. That's my advice. about $50-100. Might take some patience though. :evilaugh:
haha you could tell i was frusturated i have all new pieces. i just cant get it up!

Is the steering lock engaged? That would hold the top yoke (tree) on. Really you should lift the bike off the ground for this but usually you don't have to. It could be held in because a fork is bent, or just simply the weight of the bike bearing down and holding it together. Hold the front brake on (zip tie) and sit on and wiggle the bike back and forth with your knees. This should allow you to lift the clamp off using both hands when it's all 100% lined up.

Add wd40 in case there's any corrosion holding it together.
actually my lock doesn't even work. i never been able to lock this bike. Im gonna try that. im gonna just loosen everything and then just Pull SUPER hard from the top. I really dont want to take this to a shop. (why hold the front brake?)
 
1 - 20 of 66 Posts
Top