Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been trying to fix a 4th gear false neutral problem lately. I installed a new shift fork shaft and shift rod assembly. When I was removing the clutch hub to do the work, I really marred it up badly and bought a replacement. So far as I can tell, it is exact to what was on there.

So......Now I have an issue, where when the side cover is installed, there is too much slack on the clutch cable. I have paid close attention to the order of the friction plates as well as the 2 smaller rings that go on first. It seems the center pull rod has a lot of play in it, something like a 1/4".

The clutch basket is installed correctly, the center oil drive is flush as well as the drive gears, so I don't think it's that. I am running out of ideas other than pulling one or two plates to see if that puts more tension on the center pull shaft.

Anyone have an idea, I am open to suggestions.

Yorke
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
I have been trying to fix a 4th gear false neutral problem lately. I installed a new shift fork shaft and shift rod assembly. When I was removing the clutch hub to do the work, I really marred it up badly and bought a replacement. So far as I can tell, it is exact to what was on there.

So......Now I have an issue, where when the side cover is installed, there is too much slack on the clutch cable. I have paid close attention to the order of the friction plates as well as the 2 smaller rings that go on first. It seems the center pull rod has a lot of play in it, something like a 1/4".

The clutch basket is installed correctly, the center oil drive is flush as well as the drive gears, so I don't think it's that. I am running out of ideas other than pulling one or two plates to see if that puts more tension on the center pull shaft.

Anyone have an idea, I am open to suggestions.

Yorke

You have checked with the fiche and all parts are in their correct positions?
You followed everything in the manual during the install?
How exactly did you damage the clutch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok, I figured it out, human error! I put the large Inner Diameter friction plate last instead of first. I basically put the clutch pack in backwards, so the first two small jack rings were causing the plate end to stick out too far.

I damaged the hub when my clutch tool slipped, it screwed it up pretty badly. I have been fighting a 4th gear false neutral issue at the track and I have been replacing parts to try to fix it. With the exception of the tranny, everything is now new.

The tranny itself was a used unit I bought, it is in better shape than what I had. If the problem is still there, then I am just gonna have to live with it for a few more months till I tear the motor down.

I've been using a quickshifter, do you know if I actually clutch 4th gear alone if that will help? As crazy as it sounds I didn't think about that until I left the track a few weeks ago. I love the bike, but that tranny is a piece from everything I've read so far.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Ok, I figured it out, human error! I put the large Inner Diameter friction plate last instead of first. I basically put the clutch pack in backwards, so the first two small jack rings were causing the plate end to stick out too far.

I damaged the hub when my clutch tool slipped, it screwed it up pretty badly. I have been fighting a 4th gear false neutral issue at the track and I have been replacing parts to try to fix it. With the exception of the tranny, everything is now new.

The tranny itself was a used unit I bought, it is in better shape than what I had. If the problem is still there, then I am just gonna have to live with it for a few more months till I tear the motor down.

I've been using a quickshifter, do you know if I actually clutch 4th gear alone if that will help? As crazy as it sounds I didn't think about that until I left the track a few weeks ago. I love the bike, but that tranny is a piece from everything I've read so far.

Thanks.
What killtime setting are you using for your quickshifter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think 75ms, when I was installing it. I set it up a bit so it would be obvious when I tested it out. I think the stock setting is 65ms right? I have read a lot of people just leave it there.

I have had these false neutral issues for a while, that's the reason I installed the quickshifter as well as a new shift drum and shift forks. I didn't install the shift fork rod or the shift fork shaft. but now that's been replaced as well. I am hoping it works now, it's been a head ache, and to be honest slightly dangerous when in traffic on track.

I plan to do an overhaul at the conclusion of the October races, trying to just get it to work until then. At that point I am gonna have to bite the bullet and buy new gears.

Does the placement of the linkage lever play a part in it? I have had it setup for GP shift, and it's been at set at 1 o'clock. The linkage that comes with the dynojet quickshifter is a piece. I have another linkage rod I can cut down if I need to move the position of where it's at on the shift rod. If that's an important setup.

Thanks for helping out, I appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
I think 75ms, when I was installing it. I set it up a bit so it would be obvious when I tested it out. I think the stock setting is 65ms right? I have read a lot of people just leave it there.

I have had these false neutral issues for a while, that's the reason I installed the quickshifter as well as a new shift drum and shift forks. I didn't install the shift fork rod or the shift fork shaft. but now that's been replaced as well. I am hoping it works now, it's been a head ache, and to be honest slightly dangerous when in traffic on track.

I plan to do an overhaul at the conclusion of the October races, trying to just get it to work until then. At that point I am gonna have to bite the bullet and buy new gears.

Does the placement of the linkage lever play a part in it? I have had it setup for GP shift, and it's been at set at 1 o'clock. The linkage that comes with the dynojet quickshifter is a piece. I have another linkage rod I can cut down if I need to move the position of where it's at on the shift rod. If that's an important setup.

Thanks for helping out, I appreciate it.
I have no experience with GP shift setup.

I have my killtime set at 59ms and I drag race every weekend. If the Dynojet QS had the ability to set different killtimes for each gear I would go even lower for the higher gears. Only time I have a problem with shifting is when I am lazy on the shifter and don't shift hard enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,132 Posts
What exactly does the QS do? Cut fuel or spark to the engine when you shift clutchless?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
What exactly does the QS do? Cut fuel or spark to the engine when you shift clutchless?

It cuts the spark so you don't need to back off the throttle to unlock the transmission.
For me, a true quickshifter actually does the shift for you using a solenoid when you press buttons on the left clip-on - particularly useful for people with lower limb injuries.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32,034 Posts
It cuts the spark so you don't need to back off the throttle to unlock the transmission.
For me, a true quickshifter actually does the shift for you using a solenoid when you press buttons on the left clip-on - particularly useful for people with lower limb injuries.

It's worth pointing out that originally drag racers simply ran wires from the kill switch across to the horn button so they could just swipe the button to shift without backing off the throttle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I have no experience with GP shift setup.

I have my killtime set at 59ms and I drag race every weekend. If the Dynojet QS had the ability to set different killtimes for each gear I would go even lower for the higher gears. Only time I have a problem with shifting is when I am lazy on the shifter and don't shift hard enough.
I would think GP shift would be ideal for drag racing, but I guess you know what you know, right? I've often thought, maybe I am shifting lazily.

But, I know exactly where on the track I use 4th gear, so I shift with intention on those spots of the track.

I'm afraid that the used tranny I put in the bike might also need gears replaced. Too bad this year model does not have a cassette style tranny. My next bike whenever that is, will definitely have a cassette style.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top