The engine can be anywhere, it just needs a starter motor hooked up to a battery to turn it over.Hi Guys,
I know a compression check is pretty easy to do but I have a few questions about the procedure.
Can a compression check be carried out with the engine "out of" the frame?
Can it be done safely with the oil drained? would that be accurate?
I would guess, but thought I would ask anyways...
Thanks,
Kelsey
If it's an engine that's been sitting for a while that might be true, but if the engine is that dry you should put some oil into the cylinders before you turn it over anyway.correct me if i am wrong, but i would have said you will get a lower compression reading without oil, with oil there will be a better seal between the rings and oil scraper ring.:idunno:
If you're going to open up an engine you would normally run a compression test before pulling it out to determine if it's worth doing the topend while you have it apart.Ya I thought it would be a bad idea, but couldn't find a thread about it.
I thought someone might have done it on a motor they were buying...but even then it would probably have some oil in it...
Thanks Bladeracer!
That's the best way to learnYa the top end was an after thought, live and learn I guess
I know!this is my first time going this deep so I'll be learning a lot!
Its funny how so much of it is obvious if you know, but not so when your trying to figure it all out.
No but I have a 954 engine completely stripped.Ya I know what you mean, I have been surfing this forum for awhile now, but don't have many posts because most of what I need to find out has already been discussed, and if it hasn't I'm not likely to be the one to chime in with the answer.
Its guys like yourself that really help us newbies out and really make these forums valuable.
By the way, have you split the crankcase on a 929?
Camshafts can stay in since you don't need to remove the timing rotor.Well, I am going step by step using the Haynes manual as well as the Honda service manual. But I am a bit confused on what exactly needs to be removed from the crankcase before I separate it, considering that I am only going to be working on the mainshaft, countershaft and shift drum. The Haynes manual states that the Oil cooler must come off, and maybe the starter motor. The Honda Manual says the starter must come off. I just figured I would figure it out as I was going, but I would really rather know before hand...I'm that type of person.
Do the camshafts need to come out to remove the timing chain from the timing rotor?
does the oil cooler need to be removed?
does the starter motor need to be removed?
Do I need to remove the sump or can I just take the lower crankcase with the sump still in situ? Oh wait, I see the sump has to come off to remove the oil pump...so I guess I do.....
The timing rotor is on the end of the crank which stays in the upper case half.Isn't the timing rotor shaft in the lower half? If so, I would need to at least get the timing chain off...
I spoke to a mechanic with 30 years experience and he said you just flip the motor over and open it up....obviously over simplified...but he didn't say anything about the cams either....I really hope you are right!
Cams seem like a pain in the ass....When I checked my valve clearances I tried removing the cam holders and with all the bolts removed they were twisted (the holders) and wouldn't budge...
Ya I see some of the case bolts will be quite difficult with the oil cooler in the way....I guess the book is right!
I just use the blunt end of a screwdriverah....the tapping....that is probably the key....and I just finally bought myself a rubber mallet......
