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Discussion Starter #1
I am a little bit concerned with the chain on my bike! The chain has still got some life in it according to the wear gauge on the adjuster and it is correctly adjusted too.

When ive got the bike on the rear paddock stand and then spin the rear wheel by hand, at one particular point the wheel goes tight and takes more effort to rotate. I have also started the engine and put the bike in gear and let the back wheel spin gently by itself which results in a regular 'clonking' sound that is coming from the chain/wheel?

I have only ridden it 20 miles or so lately and havent noticed anything on the road. Am I worrying about nothing?
 

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Got the same with mine, just ordered new chain and sprockets. If it breaks when your riding it the chain could cause real damage either to you or the bike. It will cause engine damage!

But i'm no expert, sure someone will step in.
 

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Replace it because you have too much variation meaning it's very difficult to get proper adjustment. Something is going on like seized links or no lubricant left. I'm guessing it's quite old being a 900 and you really can't go entirely by the markings on the swing arm.

Inspect your sprockets as they may be used up as well. Chain and sprocket kit may be your best bet.
 

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You have a tight spot....its common, try lubing the chain first, will take a while to sort it self out, just make sure when you adjust your chain, do it when it is at its tight spot, or you will dammage your bearing on the drive shaft.If it hasnt freed up after 4-500 miles change it if you dont like it, make sure the sprockets arnt worn.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think they are the original chain and sprockets, so they have done 12,600 miles. I keep the chain clean and lubed but something isn't right. I will take the chain off and examine it and also check out both sprockets and then report back :rolleyes:
 

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I am a little bit concerned with the chain on my bike! The chain has still got some life in it according to the wear gauge on the adjuster and it is correctly adjusted too.

When ive got the bike on the rear paddock stand and then spin the rear wheel by hand, at one particular point the wheel goes tight and takes more effort to rotate. I have also started the engine and put the bike in gear and let the back wheel spin gently by itself which results in a regular 'clonking' sound that is coming from the chain/wheel?

I have only ridden it 20 miles or so lately and havent noticed anything on the road. Am I worrying about nothing?
Have you adjusted it recently? Try backing the adjusters off a half turn and see if you still notice it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have you adjusted it recently? Try backing the adjusters off a half turn and see if you still notice it.
Yeah I adjusted it slighty after puting my wheels back in with my new tyres on.

I will try backing them off a bit first then.

If I do need a new chain and sprockets can anyone recommend a decent make. They seem to range alot in price! I have only ever bought a chain for a MX bike and that was years ago!
 

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Yeah I adjusted it slighty after puting my wheels back in with my new tyres on.

I will try backing them off a bit first then.

It's impossible to wear more than 100 links in a chain all at the same rate. You need to set the specified chain tension at the tightest part of the chain. For the 929 for example it specifies 40-50mm of slack. If you set it to 40mm and then turn the wheel a quarter turn and it's only 30mm then clearly you've adjusted it to be tighter than the minimum specified.
 

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If slacking the chain doesn't work, the next suspect would be rust.
Over here chain rust can be a real issue as it can start off on the inside the side plates and compromise the O ring seal sitting & the pin which can eventually cause tight spots
 

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If it breaks when your riding it the chain could cause real damage either to you or the bike. It will cause engine damage!
This happened to my husband just last year... we regularly inspect, clean and lube the chain but just didn't notice the odd wear on the front sprocket. The sprocket caused the chain to snap (i think thats what the problem was, he knows it better than me :idunno: ) while he was driving down the highway in the wee hours of the morning. The chain dented the swingarm, destroyed the tail plastic, destroyed the subframe, knocked the passenger seat off, hit my husband, then it sheared (SP?) the case cover off and smashed the oil filter. Totaled. He was lucky to be able to limp away with just a nasty bruise/cut across his low back, the doc said if the chain hit him a few inches further down and to the left it could have caused some serious damage to his leg. (The nurse couldn't believe he "walked" away from it all considering how the bike looked).

Moral of the story: If you ever think there is a possibility there is anything wrong, replace it (and the sprockets).
 

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Late comment, but I have seen this before where the rear sprocket jumped a link so that one side is too tight and one side too loose. Try loosening the chain so it is not on the rear sprocket and evening it up -spin the rear wheel one set of teeth (so that you have close to the same looseness on top and bottom). The chain may be fine, it could just be mounted wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I have finally got in the garage today and have sorted the problem.

I checked the chain tension in 4 different places and found it to be on the bottom limit of the correct slack measurement (30 - 40mm) in 3 out of the 4 places.

The chain slack measurement was about 35mm in the fourth place!

Before I slackened the rear axle nut I took a measurement with a set of digital calipers from both adjusters and found that there was a difference of 1mm from left to right.

After adjusting the tightest part of the chain to about 35mm with both left and right now equal :O , the tight spot has now gone!

Thanks for everyone's input and advice. :thumb:
 

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Before I slackened the rear axle nut I took a measurement with a set of digital calipers from both adjusters and found that there was a difference of 1mm from left to right.
Where did you measure? You want the axle to be parallel with the swingarm pivot so you need to measure from the centre of the axle to the centre of the swingarm pivot on each side. Measure the diameters of the holes in the axle and swingarm pivot, then measure the distance to either the inside or outside of the holes and add or subtract half of the hole diameters.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just took a measurement from part of the swimgarm to part of the adjuster, I thought as long as both sides measured the same, then that meant the axle would be parallel?
 
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