[bladeracer]

I am a little bit concerned with the chain on my bike! The chain has still got some life in it according to the wear gauge on the adjuster and it is correctly adjusted too.

When ive got the bike on the rear paddock stand and then spin the rear wheel by hand, at one particular point the wheel goes tight and takes more effort to rotate. I have also started the engine and put the bike in gear and let the back wheel spin gently by itself which results in a regular 'clonking' sound that is coming from the chain/wheel?

I have only ridden it 20 miles or so lately and havent noticed anything on the road. Am I worrying about nothing?

Have you adjusted it recently? Try backing the adjusters off a half turn and see if you still notice it.

 

[bladeracer]

Yeah I adjusted it slighty after puting my wheels back in with my new tyres on.

I will try backing them off a bit first then.

It's impossible to wear more than 100 links in a chain all at the same rate. You need to set the specified chain tension at the tightest part of the chain. For the 929 for example it specifies 40-50mm of slack. If you set it to 40mm and then turn the wheel a quarter turn and it's only 30mm then clearly you've adjusted it to be tighter than the minimum specified.

 

[bladeracer]

Before I slackened the rear axle nut I took a measurement with a set of digital calipers from both adjusters and found that there was a difference of 1mm from left to right.

Where did you measure? You want the axle to be parallel with the swingarm pivot so you need to measure from the centre of the axle to the centre of the swingarm pivot on each side. Measure the diameters of the holes in the axle and swingarm pivot, then measure the distance to either the inside or outside of the holes and add or subtract half of the hole diameters.