FYI. The way the PAIR system works is air is taken FROM the airbox, through the hose to the PAIR solenoid. When the solenoid is opened, air goes through the two hoses to the ports on the valve cover. Inside those two small covers are reed(one way) valves. The air goes past the reed valves through small passages into the exhaust port. This introduces clean fresh(aka oxygen rich) air into the hot exhaust. This in turn promotes burning of any unburned fuel for lower emissions.Calkidd said:I believe you will find a custom map goes for about $300. As for the PAIR valve, do a search here on the forum. Just don't go and block it off you should reroute the hoses back to each other.
If you need some more info I can get a little more in depth. But here are a few beneficial aspects to this mod.
1. better throttle response
PAIR has nothing to do with this
2. no crankcase pressure
3. oil last longer[not time wise it stays cleaner longer]
4. increased seal and gasket life
5. small increase in hp
6. no oil burn [unless your rings/valve guide seals are worn]
Why would you get burnt oil from the PAIR?
7. cooler air in the air box
8. no burn of oil vapor [the crankcase breather vents oil mist into the air box]
This has nothing to do with the PAIR, its a separate system.
9. lower end bearings and main bearings load is reduced
Who is on crack who thought of this?
10. air filters don,t need to be changed/cleaned as often
(courtesy from GixxerKiller on RRZone.com)
Thanks Conq.redhotz28 said:I just heard that you had to block off the pair system for dyno runs because of the air/fuel sensor the dynomometer uses.
Hello?? WTF? Are you actually reading the posts???Calkidd said:Again you offer zero reason for your conclusion.
What is the PAIR valve you ask? It's part of the Emissions system on the bike. It injects air into the exhaust ports to burn off the un-burnt fuel. You really won't gain Horsepower from doing this (some do claim 1-2hp gains though). It's not heavy so no real weight loss either. I was gonig to get the bike put on a Dyno and tuned the next tuesday so I figured I'd remove this before then. Either you remove it, or clamp the hoses when you get it tuned on a dyno. Otherwise the air injection will throw off the A/F reading on the Dyno and the bike won't be tuned correctly. Also by removing the valve the bike feels alittle smoother, no popping on deceleration anymore. If you are bored, go ahead and remove it, or if you plan on having your powercommander tuned on a dyno. Otherwise it really didn't make much of a diffrence.
F1 Mechanic != Motorcycle Mechanic.Calkidd said:It wasn't me who left in a huff I just merely left for a while. I know Big Kahuna had some issues, but we are not talking about him.
Conq, You have a great forum with valuable information, but there are times when it seems like people can not post an opinion with out being singled out, shund or ridiculed. And it seems to be the same folks over and over again.
The "Crack", as he is so called, is a certified mechanic trained by Factory schools who has also had involvement with F1's. This particular mod does not hurt anything and cost a buck to do. Plus, the original poster has nothing to gain he is just trying to help fellow riders out with a cheap mod.
If someone does this mod and doesn't feel it works for them what are you out of.....a buck? So what at least give it a try. Why should members be ridiculed just because another members doesn't share the same opinion?
I apologize for thread jacking this post.
If you remove the PAIR you don't need those fancy block off plates no one will see them. Get two 1/2" plugs for the reed valves and one 3/4" plug for the air box. If any one is interested in controversial mod PM me and I can explain it in more detail.