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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ladies and gents,

Firstly i would like to say i am new to this site, but in the short time i have been a member the posts and threads have helped me alot, hence this post...i now want to give a little back.

I recently purchased a 1994 CBR400RR NC29 from a friend at work. the bike had been sat in his garage for a good year, unused. After installing a new battery and some coughing and spluttering, the bike was running. I then removed all of the fairings, cleaned the them and made about 4 fibre glass repairs to cracks and fixing points. i then cleaned up the bike itself and started to prep it for an MOT......it was then it happened.....

A fundimental aspect to passing the MOT was to have fully working lights. Indicators, tail, break lights and even side lights all perfect. the headlights on the other hand had different ideas. Buggers!!
On slidding the selector switch, on the LHS switch gear, to the first position the side lights worked find. The next click brought nothing and niether did the HI/Low selector nor the Pass switch.
'Being an electrical technician, i should be able to sort this little problem' i though to myself. A bit of investigation took me, firstly to the fuse carrier. This appeared to be fine, so with no manual or wiring diagram i moved on to belling out some of the wiring. This led me upto a small black box, mounted on the RHS infront of the handle bars....

So, straight on the old 'tinternet it was to do some research and thus i stumbled across this awesome site!! I also found out this little box was the headlight relay, but after testing it was soon ruled out as the fault.
So i got searching fireblade.org for more help. this turned up a few possibilities...bad earth or an issue with the switch contacts. i did find a wiring layout on here too, but it was too small when downloaded to make it out properly, although it did help. So with a half arsed idea of how the switching circuit worked i disconnected the LHS switching loom and took it to work to take it apart.
Now, if anyone does actually read this and thinks of taking your switch gear apart, please be careful not to loose the small ball bearings or springs that make the gear work, it really is a ball ache to be crawling around in the work shop looking for little bits of metal....gutted
With all the bits back on the bench, i proceeded to test the functionality of the switches and clean up all the contacts and try and work out how the dam circuit worked. All appeared ok with the switches, so they were put back together and that night reattached to the bike, and......nothing :crap:

I didn't want it to come to this, but there was only one thing for it....physically trace the wires...double gutted. So, i start removing the protective tape and tracing the wires and bang....there is was.... the black/red wire....the little wire i though was a 0V wire, there it was going from the switch to the headlight relay AND to the fuse carrier....the same fuse carrier i passed as ok three days earlier
Now it all falls into place:rotfl: right, here is what should happen - from the fuse a 12V feed goes, on the black/red wire, to the main beam switch and to the switch of the headlight relay. What i had done was forced my test probes into the fuse carrier, forcing a connection across the fuse. So, i ran down to the local auto spares, got myself a new 4 way carrier and rewired it.....and now, i have lights

All its gotta do now is pass the MOT, haha

I know this has been long winded but i hope it helps someone if simular symptoms are experienced.
If anyone does want anymore info or a circuit layout of the headlight switch gear, just let me know

cheers guys
ian :hmm:
 

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Hi,

I'm sitting in the same boat with a NC23. My head lights don't work, the park lights do though.

I bought the bike yesterday, and after a close inspection of the harness I was horrified. The previous owner(s) did a great job on the paint job and body work, but really messed up the wiring.

They used so much insulation tape, jumper-ed burnt wires with household wire, didn't solder joints, etc. The list goes on.

I looks like the :asshat: guy fitted 55/50W bulbs instead of the 55/35W (Japan spec). As a result the dipped light circuit overheated and melted the wiring and fuse box. He should have fitted a relay when he upgraded the lights. The 'fix' was even more barbaric.

Anyway, I've decided to rewire the entire bike for the sake of my sanity. I want to remove any possible fire hazards, as well as upgrade the ignition system with a homemade GSM/GPS immobilizer and alarm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey chris

gutted mate! its all good fun tho hey

keep me posted on how you get on, i would be interested to know.

i am currently half way through respraying mine now....which is interesting!

haha:eek:
 

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Hi,

I'm sitting in the same boat with a NC23. My head lights don't work, the park lights do though.

I bought the bike yesterday, and after a close inspection of the harness I was horrified. The previous owner(s) did a great job on the paint job and body work, but really messed up the wiring.

They used so much insulation tape, jumper-ed burnt wires with household wire, didn't solder joints, etc. The list goes on.

I looks like the :asshat: guy fitted 55/50W bulbs instead of the 55/35W (Japan spec). As a result the dipped light circuit overheated and melted the wiring and fuse box. He should have fitted a relay when he upgraded the lights. The 'fix' was even more barbaric.

Anyway, I've decided to rewire the entire bike for the sake of my sanity. I want to remove any possible fire hazards, as well as upgrade the ignition system with a homemade GSM/GPS immobilizer and alarm.
This seems to be a trend. on many continents apparently. I purchased my 94 CBR900rr and the guy before me decided that since he had a motorcycle with more power and torque to weight ratio than needed, he would remove the safety equipment, turn signals and such. So, I fitted it with new equipment and rewired the tail end of it. Then purchased a 98 CBR600f3 for my son, and found that the previous owner removed the stock tail light, and signals opting for the integrated tail light. Then decided that he would not only hack the crap out of the tail end, but the front as well. Now I'm playing chase the screw up. I've downloaded the schematic for the bike, and am about to give up and build a harness.
I always have had a rule about this stuff: Never cut the original harness. If you need to make a change do it on the small harness (accessory) end, and make your own harness for it soldiered, and shrink wrapped properly. Or leave it stock. It just makes dealing with returning it to stock, after the aftermarket part fails easier.
 

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Well I rewire a small section of the bike. I ran new (separate) wires for the headlights and ignition. I also added a second relay for the 60/55W H4 lamp upgrade. The lamp circuit also now has it's own ground - I wanted to isolate it from the top-end of the ignition circuit.

My original fuse box was burnt up and held together with friction and tape, so replaced it with a new generic unit.

I've listed all the other things I did on the bike in another thread. :) It took 3.5 days of soldering, etc, but it was really worth it.
 
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