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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2007 cbr1000rr with a little under 18,000 miles. The last oil filter I bought from Napa had a dent in the canister. I didn’t want it to compromise the structural integrity of the filter so I decided to change it out ASAP. I torqued that filter (wix) to 20 lb/ft as specified in the service manual. I could not for the life of me get this filter off. The end cap adaptor just rounded off the end of the filter off (it was the correct size, 65mm), my strap wrench would just slip, I actually broke one of my rubber strap wrenches trying. Finally I decided it needed to get stabbed with a screwdriver. Even though I got the screwdriver perfectly centered and all the way through, it just tore right through the filter when I tried to rotate the screwdriver. Finally, right before I totally lost purchase, the filter started to spin. What’s crazy is I had this filter on for less than 50 miles. My question is do you guys torque your oil filters to spec or have you always hand tightened without issue? On my other bikes (R6, 636, F4i) I just tighten it as much as I could by hand and never had an issue. I don’t want my filter to be too loose, but at the same time I don’t want to have to deal with a stuck filter again, especially one in such a tight spot.
 

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The fact the filter you used was damaged is it possible the thread was too, or slightly twisted or compressed in some way that caused the problem rather then the torque setting?

In answer to your question though, I've never used a wrench - only ever hand tight, and some oil on the seal too. The Highflow filter actually says the nut is for removal only. Whilst I appreciate there is a torque quoted (20ftlb) I would still not actually do it more than hand tight.
 

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I have always used my hand to tighten the filter. Never had any leaks or problems with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The fact the filter you used was damaged is it possible the thread was too, or slightly twisted or compressed in some way that caused the problem rather then the torque setting?

In answer to your question though, I've never used a wrench - only ever hand tight, and some oil on the seal too. The Highflow filter actually says the nut is for removal only. Whilst I appreciate there is a torque quoted (20ftlb) I would still not actually do it more than hand tight.
I mean anything is possible, but I doubt it. The dent was near the dome of the filter and threading it off and on was just as easy as the new filter, after it broke loose of course. I honestly think it was just on there too tight. I am the one who torqued it too so I know it wasn’t torqued over 20 lbs. I guess after a few heat cycles it really stuck on there. I’m just going to tighten it as much as I can by hand from now on and put a mark at 12 o’ clock on the filter so I can see if it has backed out at all over the OCI. Thanks for the input fellas.
 

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I always hand tighten the filters and have never had an issue. I've been doing it this way since motorcycles went from element filters to canister filters.
 

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I mean anything is possible, but I doubt it. The dent was near the dome of the filter and threading it off and on was just as easy as the new filter, after it broke loose of course. I honestly think it was just on there too tight. I am the one who torqued it too so I know it wasn’t torqued over 20 lbs. I guess after a few heat cycles it really stuck on there. I’m just going to tighten it as much as I can by hand from now on and put a mark at 12 o’ clock on the filter so I can see if it has backed out at all over the OCI. Thanks for the input fellas.
I assume you put a bit of oil on the rubber seal too? (just asking!)
 

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I'll admit the manual does have a torque setting so you would assume to use it, just one of life's lessons!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll admit the manual does have a torque setting so you would assume to use it, just one of life's lessons!! :)
I guess I would agree if you were using the exact tool and filter designed by Honda. I say that because the few micrometer difference between the 65mm Honda canister and the wix canister caused me to round off the tetradecagonal portion of the wix filter with an end cap attachment. A strap wrench collapsed the filter so I stopped before it completely lost its integrity. Only by the grace of god I was able to get it off with a screwdriver. Even the screwdriver method was about to fail. It ripped 90° through the filter before it began spinning loose. I’m just going to go hand tight from now on. I also feel like putting any force on the filter with any sort of tool has the potential to dent or warp the metal canister which can compromise its burst strength. Obviously I’ll pay close attention for any leaks. I’m just not trying to deal with a stuck filter again.

P.S. watch out ordering oil filters from MotoSport.com. I ordered 3 from them and they were just thrown in a box with no packing. One was useable and on the bike now, but 2 were all dented up. Some might have been ok with it, but personally, I would not use a visibly damaged filter. From now on I will just go to the dealership and inspect the filters before taking them home.
 

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I always torque my filters with right spec.
No problem to take them of either.
I change my oil and filter 1-2 times per season depending how many track days i do.
 

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Every vehicle I've ever owned specifies hand-tight on the Filter.
It won't hurt of course to Torque it if there is a figure specified.

Personally, I only use the filters with the Hex Nut on the end now (not done the blade one yet), hand-tight and then Wire-Lock.
Only 100% way to guarantee it won't come loose.
Same with anything you really don't want to come loose, Caliper Bolts, Sump Plug, Wheel Bolts/Nuts, etc.
 

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I use this filter which is easy and good to use since i have secure filter with wire for safety reasons on track.

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