progress has slowed a bit as I’m back at work now, started polishing the frame and it is a bit of a learning curve.... this is where I am at so far but when I have it the final polish the finish was nowhere near good enough🤣
so.. hows the restoration of the 98 going? lol
Really?! That would save me a good few ££ I wonder if I could get the finish good enough🤔Nigel and mrpickwick would probably recommend against powder coat. You could paint them black then hit them with a can of spraymax 2k clear coat and that should stand up pretty good. Or so I'm told on good authority
I guess I don’t have too much to loose, if they look crap I can send them to the painter anyway.... Anything that I can do at home to keep the budget down is worth a try!With enough coats of clear and some sanding after, you should be fine. Look what you've done on the frame. I have faith in ya.
Advice........hmmmm, leave it alone? OK, too late for that, so I'll give you some pointers.progress has slowed a bit as I’m back at work now, started polishing the frame and it is a bit of a learning curve.... this is where I am at so far but when I have it the final polish the finish was nowhere near good enough View attachment 107409
need to go back a few steps and start again. Ian, do you have any advice? Just a basic step by step? A rough idea of how long it should take?
I used a scotch brite type disk on a grinder to remove the anodised coating but if you are not super careful it can take away too much material but I think If I am careful I can get to the bare metal this way without too much work to remove the finish left behind.Advice........hmmmm, leave it alone? OK, too late for that, so I'll give you some pointers.
There are 2 ways at going about it: 1-have the frame and swing arm dipped in a chemical solution to dissolve the anodization (makes it easier to get to the bare aluminum)
2-don't get it dipped, and be ready to use 100 Grit or Micron equivalent to sand it off. Using the 100 Grit to get the anodization off is "cheaper", but in the scheme of things dipping is better, as you have an untouched clean aluminum to work with. Using the 100 Grit puts some hefty scratches in the aluminum and adds days to the job to get them out.
Once you are ready to go at the bare aluminum, I would start with a wet 220 grit. I did all my frames by hand, so to answer questions about paste and rouges would be a misstep. I sand in one direction, constantly cleaning the paper in water and try to use the entire swath (I would cut the sheets to usable rectangles easily held with the hands.
When I was satisfied that I got the entire surface area done with that grit, I would then move onto 400 Grit, (I always use wet paper). This time I would not sand in the opposite direction of the way I sanded the previous grit. For example, on the 220 I went LEFT TO RIGHT. Using the 400 I would then go UP AND DOWN. Doing this exposes the scratches that the previous grit left behind, thus letting you get a visual of how much more sanding is needed with the current grit so no "opposite" scratches can be seen.
Repeat the process, alternating paths and changing grits from 400, to 600, to 800, to 1000, to 1500, to 2000. Also, when changing grits, ALWAYS be sure to clean the frame with a clean towel and water to remove the coarser grade material that has been left behind.
I would typically get a "test polish" on an area during the 600 grit stage to see where I'm at. Its also motivational, to see it start to shine is truly amazing.
How long should it take? Well, that's relative to the procedure you use. Power tools, sanding discs, and compound can surely shorten the time frame, but I learned by hand, and that TAKES FOREVER
Either way, good luck, keep sanding and keep documenting
My original 93, that was my first one (the wheels came polished), and my friends YZF750 that I did for him.
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that’s interesting, I was always under the impression that powder coating the best. I bought all the paint and lacquer but was considering powder coating anyway but I will have a go at painting them myself nowWet painting the wheels is definitely the way to go, In the past I’ve had wheels powder coated and have had mixed experiences, on steel wheels on an old MG, fine, no problem, on alloy/magnesium wheels I’ve had it chipped off on the rim when tyres were fitted and on magnesium Porsche wheels I had it come off in huge chunks. They leave the factory with painted wheels, it’s more durable.