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Discussion Starter #1
For anyone looking to add a very noticeable boost of power to their bike keep on reading. I have seen a few posts about nitrous but none give the details about what is required to do it the right way including cost.

I have turned my 2003 CBR 954 into a dragbike that I race with every weekend. Its not the fastest bike when compared to the newer bikes but it's close plus its very consistent which it what matters for bracket racing.

I had my bike dyno tuned a few months ago and it made 146.5 HP and 71 ft/lbs torque. Since then I have stretched it over 9" which lowered the dyno numbers to 138 / 68. My nitrous gains will be off the stretched numbers so they are actually a little higher.

Now for the install.

1. I purchased a Nitrous Express EFI Power Booster kit with a 2.5lb bottle for $399. This kit contains most of the required parts to add nitrous to your bike. I also purchased a Nitrous pressure gauge from ebay to monitor bottle pressure for $30.

EFI POWER BOOSTER SYSTEM W 2.5LB BOTTLE

NOTE: My install is not a fogging setup like this kit is designed for. If you just fog the airbox with nitrous you are taking a huge gamble. This way tries to trick the air temp sensor into sensing the colder air and getting the ecu to add more fuel then hoping each cylinder gets an equal amount of nitrous which is very unlikely to happen. This can lead to burnt pistons or valves and be very expensive to fix.

2. Next I purchased a showerhead and spraybar setup from performancefirstcycles for $185. This guy can be found on facebook and he makes very good quality parts. This setup will ensure that each cylinder gets the same amount of nitrous.

3. You will also need to have a PC3 USB ($200-300) and a multi-function hub with map switch and output harness($150+).

As you can start to realize if you don't already have some of these items on your bike this is going to be expensive.

4. I installed my spraybar then paid my tuner to complete the nitrous setup and to tune the bike for the nitrous. I will explain how the system works below.

The spraybar is mounted to the airbox lid so that a nozzle is pointing directly into each cylinder. The spraybar does not restrict airflow or affect performance inside the airbox. The showerhead is mounted between the velocity stacks and connected to the spraybar with poly lines. The hole for the showerhead in the airbox fits perfectly in the gap between the throttle bodies and using the 90 degree fitting that comes with it you are able to route the line under the fuel rail to the solenoid located in the space under the gas tank. My nitrous bottle is mounted in front of the rear tire to a bracket that was welded onto the swingarm.

5. The wiring is done as follows: Using relays the map switch harness is connected to one relay and the nitrous solenoid is connected to a second relay. One of the outputs(ground signal) from the multi-function hub is connected to the second relay along with the nitrous solenoid. The horn was removed from my bike so the horn button is my nitrous activation. The output settings in the hub are programmed to activate above 90% throttle and under 11800rpm to prevent spraying nitrous into the rev limiter. My shift point is 11500 so this leaves some room for error to prevent engine damage. The second map feature is used as a nitrous only map and custom tuned for the nitrous at a safe 12.0AFR while spraying.

This is how it works with the horn button being the activation. Remember the hub will only activate the output to the solenoid above 90% throttle and you want to be above 7k rpm before using nitrous.

When I am above 90% throttle and press the horn button it will activate the first relay that changes the map in the PC3 to the nitrous map then sends power to the second relay so when the hub sends the output signal to the second relay providing the ground it activates the solenoid to start spraying the nitrous. This happens much faster than you would think. As long as I hold the horn button the bike will stay on the nitrous map and spray nitrous. As soon as the horn button is released it reverts back to the motor only map.

With an approximate 34 jet (I only had up to 30 so we had to drill out a smaller one) and conservative tune at 12AFR my bike's dyno numbers while spraying were around 170-172hp and 88-90 ft/lbs torque. This is off my strecthed dyno numbers so at stock wheelbase these numbers would be 178-180 and 91-93 which is great for a stock 954 engine. At around 9500rpm the gains were higher at ~+37hp and 22 torque.

I am very happy with this setup. I tested it for the first time last night at the dragstrip. The power increase while spraying is huge. Once I get used to it I will post a video of a run using it so you can hear the difference in the engine sound while spraying. Total cost for nitrous for me was about $800 since I already had a PC3 and hub on my bike.
 

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Why would the swingarm extensions lose power in dyno? I haven't ever seen them make any difference in power unless the tyre is slipping but that's why they use straps to get weight to the real wheel on the dyno. Nice gains thought =)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Why would the swingarm extensions lose power in dyno? I haven't ever seen them make any difference in power unless the tyre is slipping but that's why they use straps to get weight to the real wheel on the dyno. Nice gains thought =)
Not sure on the exact reason but I believe it has to do with how the suspension works a little different from being stretched along with the extra weight of the longer chain. Traction was fine for the test pulls but we had to really tighten down the bike to get enough weight on the rear to keep it from spinning on the dyno when we started to tune for nitrous.

I could have asked my tuner since after a few test pulls he made a comment that my bike was down on power from his custom tune just a few months ago. That's when I told my bike was stock wheelbase when he first tuned it and he said ok that explains the difference. I will ask him details when I talk to him again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much were you down on power?. I would think that the loss from a longer chain wouldn't very noticible. In procents that looks a lot.
Bike only appears to be down a little power on dyno (6-8hp / 3 torque) from being stretched. However the bike is running stronger than ever at the dragstrip. I continue to get faster each week as I get more comfortable launching at higher and higher rpms. I currently have a +3 rear sprocket but ordered a +5 today to go with my -1 front to help it launch even easier. This past weekend I ran a 1.58 60ft and [email protected]+ mph in the 1/8 mile without nitrous. I finally get back to the 1/4 mile later this week where I should be flirting with upper 9.90s which has been my goal to get in the 9's on motor only then see what it will run spraying nitrous from second gear to the finish. Hoping for around 9.70 1/4 mile on nitrous.
 

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Bike only appears to be down a little power on dyno (6-8hp / 3 torque) from being stretched. However the bike is running stronger than ever at the dragstrip. I continue to get faster each week as I get more comfortable launching at higher and higher rpms. I currently have a +3 rear sprocket but ordered a +5 today to go with my -1 front to help it launch even easier. This past weekend I ran a 1.58 60ft and [email protected]+ mph in the 1/8 mile without nitrous. I finally get back to the 1/4 mile later this week where I should be flirting with upper 9.90s which has been my goal to get in the 9's on motor only then see what it will run spraying nitrous from second gear to the finish. Hoping for around 9.70 1/4 mile on nitrous.
Are you sure the the tyre just wasn't slipping just a bit? Isn't that about 4-5% power loss from little longer/heavier chain? Whit streched bikes here when they dyno them they tight them whit multiple straps from the swingarm to the dyno and sometimes use allso some antislipping lube.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
New best time using nitrous. Ran a [email protected] MPH today at Bristol Dragway and my bike does not launch well at this track. I know at a faster 1/4 mile track where 60ft times are better I will get 9.50's out of my 954.
 

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Pretty damn fast. One thing trips me out, my 600RR was capable of running 10.71 bone stock, yet with all the mods you have done you're still only running high 9's..... I would figure our 954's bone stock are probably running 10.5's or worse. I wonder why there is virtually no time difference in the 600 v. 954.... craziness
 

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Pretty damn fast. One thing trips me out, my 600RR was capable of running 10.71 bone stock, yet with all the mods you have done you're still only running high 9's..... I would figure our 954's bone stock are probably running 10.5's or worse. I wonder why there is virtually no time difference in the 600 v. 954.... craziness
Two things at play here: Anyone who's ever done any drag racing knows there is a difference between "capable" of and the reality for almost everyone. The numbers you read about in magazines were run by professional riders and corrected for ideal conditions, altitude and temperature. The numbers I have seen for the 954 are 10.27, if you have ever been to a strip and witnessed a 10.27 alongside a 10.71, nearly a half second @ 130+ mph, it is a pretty significant win. When you starting with bikes this quick improvements are made in 1/10th or even 1/100th of a second. Its a little different than throwing a carb, intake, headers and a small NoS system on a 60's or 70's musclecar and picking up 1-11/2 seconds. And as someone who has spent some time at dragstrips trust me, your stock 954 will not run 10.27 with you on board, not an insult just a reality I know well. If you can, call Kawasaki, they might want you to test their ZX14's for them on media days. BacDoc's times are very impressive for a non-pro rider. It's mentioned all the time on this site about roadracing and it applies to drag racing as well, if you think your fast go to the track for your first time and you'll find out differently. Anyone who thinks they can put down 60 ft times and 1/8 mile times anywhere close to pro riders will find out.
 

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Two things at play here: Anyone who's ever done any drag racing knows there is a difference between "capable" of and the reality for almost everyone. The numbers you read about in magazines were run by professional riders and corrected for ideal conditions, altitude and temperature. The numbers I have seen for the 954 are 10.27, if you have ever been to a strip and witnessed a 10.27 alongside a 10.71, nearly a half second @ 130+ mph, it is a pretty significant win. When you starting with bikes this quick improvements are made in 1/10th or even 1/100th of a second. Its a little different than throwing a carb, intake, headers and a small NoS system on a 60's or 70's musclecar and picking up 1-11/2 seconds. And as someone who has spent some time at dragstrips trust me, your stock 954 will not run 10.27 with you on board, not an insult just a reality I know well. If you can, call Kawasaki, they might want you to test their ZX14's for them on media days. BacDoc's times are very impressive for a non-pro rider. It's mentioned all the time on this site about roadracing and it applies to drag racing as well, if you think your fast go to the track for your first time and you'll find out differently. Anyone who thinks they can put down 60 ft times and 1/8 mile times anywhere close to pro riders will find out.

I ran a 10.12 back in the day on my 929, it only had a slip on the front strapped down and GP shift. All stock motor trans and gears.....Not a pro rider. I did practice some of course but I would say I have been to the track less than 10 times when I pulled that 10.12 it was my best time. But I consistently ran mid 10s. Most of it is in the launch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Two things at play here: Anyone who's ever done any drag racing knows there is a difference between "capable" of and the reality for almost everyone. The numbers you read about in magazines were run by professional riders and corrected for ideal conditions, altitude and temperature. The numbers I have seen for the 954 are 10.27, if you have ever been to a strip and witnessed a 10.27 alongside a 10.71, nearly a half second @ 130+ mph, it is a pretty significant win. When you starting with bikes this quick improvements are made in 1/10th or even 1/100th of a second. Its a little different than throwing a carb, intake, headers and a small NoS system on a 60's or 70's musclecar and picking up 1-11/2 seconds. And as someone who has spent some time at dragstrips trust me, your stock 954 will not run 10.27 with you on board, not an insult just a reality I know well. If you can, call Kawasaki, they might want you to test their ZX14's for them on media days. BacDoc's times are very impressive for a non-pro rider. It's mentioned all the time on this site about roadracing and it applies to drag racing as well, if you think your fast go to the track for your first time and you'll find out differently. Anyone who thinks they can put down 60 ft times and 1/8 mile times anywhere close to pro riders will find out.
Well said, fj1200rj. My drag racing friends can't believe the numbers I am putting down on my 954. At stock wheelbase, strapped and lowered with -1/+2 gearing I was running 1.66-1.68 60's and high 6.60's in the 1/8. I would like to see someone else do it if they think its easy. My buddy has a Busa dragbike that consistently runs 6.07-10 in the 1/8. I rode it 2 weeks ago and it was my first time ever riding a Busa. On my 3rd pass I ran a 5.99. Not to brag but I know how to drag race a motorcycle.


I ran a 10.12 back in the day on my 929, it only had a slip on the front strapped down and GP shift. All stock motor trans and gears.....Not a pro rider. I did practice some of course but I would say I have been to the track less than 10 times when I pulled that 10.12 it was my best time. But I consistently ran mid 10s. Most of it is in the launch.
I have my doubts here unless you had a nice tailwind that day. A bike will not pick up nearly a half second from what it normally runs even at sea level.

My 1/8 mile times are a tenth slower at the 1/4 track I run compared to my local 1/8 track. My bike should run 9.80's on motor at a faster track. For example a .05 slower 60ft will equal about .1 slower time in the 1/8 mile and much more in the 1/4. The first 60ft is the key to drag racing. If its not fast your overall time will not be great either.


Check out my video below of a few motor only passes from last month. I didn't have my nitrous bottle installed yet to test it out. The 4th run is against my friends ZX14 dragbike. He did not spray nitrous this pass so notice the distance on the track from a 9.53 to a 10.17. Yeah its huge in terms of distance on the track.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Improved my best times this past week.

Ran a [email protected] in the 1/4 at Bristol Dragway while hitting the rev limiter in 6th gear well before the finish. This means it should run 50's with higher gearing. My -1/+5 gearing is just too low for spray in the 1/4. Works great for motor only 1/4 passes. Bristol is so slow that my 1/8 time on my fastest nitrous pass is slower than my best motor only pass in the 1/8 at Cherokee Raceway.

Also ran a [email protected] in the 1/8 at Cherokee Raceway.
 

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Last week I made my first 1/8 mile pass using nitrous as soon as I got to full throttle in first gear to the finish. I was expecting the bike to wheelie as soon as I hit the button in first gear but it didn't. The front stayed down and the run felt good. I was shocked to see the time slip.

1.52 60ft and [email protected] The same night I ran my fastest all motor 1/8 pass a [email protected] With the right gearing in the 1/4 mile I should be able to run 9.40's or better spraying from first to the finish. Too bad racing season is over for me and I will have to wait until next spring to attempt to run faster.
 
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