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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Morning guys, greetings from the UK
Wondered if somebody could help me and my 2002 fireblade 954.
I went for a ride and got about 20 miles from home.

I stopped the bike for a breather and cut the bike (kill switch and then ignition off). When I went to restart, there was no power.
Bit strange actually.
When the ignition is switched to ON and the kill switch set to no run, the lights on the dash are on and all looks good to go, but obviously won’t start.
When the ignition is switched to ON and the kill switch set to RUN, the lights and LCD on the dash are flickering on and off very rapidly, and there’s a loud clicking at the same rate from the black box in front of the battery, again, the bike won’t fire (in fact, pressing the ignition button makes the bike appear dead).
After trying this for a minute or so, it seems there’s simply no power left at all in the battery and all I get is the neutral light lit up.

The battery volts are reading 12.7v. I haven’t been able test the alternator/stator/rectifier output as the bike will not run on its own accord.

I have jumped the bike from a running vehicle and the bike runs perfectly, however, when the jump leads are removed, the bike instantly cuts out.

I have removed my battery and attempted to trickle charge but it appears to me that the battery is full as my charger registers no amps going to it (normally shows 12amp flow when battery empty down to 0.5a when the battery is almost full).

Fuses, I have had a look at all the fuses and there is a touch of white corrosion which blew off and it seems there was good contact still. The worst offender was the main fuse which had slightly more. I have given these a blast of WD-40 and will retry the bike in a few hours.

Could I be missing something really obvious? I’ve ordered a new battery for good measure as it could be a couple of years old at least.

Any help greatly appreciated
 

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Sounds to me like the battery, however, when you get the new one, do see what volts you are getting with engine on, as the old one might be dead due to melted stator etc.
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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STOP USING THE BAR-MOUNTED EMERGENCY KILL SWITCH!!!

That is a "weak link" in the machine's electrical system, is subject to the elements (rain, moisture, dust. etc.) and often fails... which is why Honda rightfully named it an "Emergency Kill".

Okay. Now that's out of the way, it may need some attention. Not WD40 attention (which is TERRIBLE for electrical connections by the way), but disassembly attention and cleaned with cotton swabs, electrical cleaner, pencil erasers, and reassembled with dielectric grease (or similar product that will protect vital components and slow oxidation.

I don't care what VOLTAGE nor AMPERAGE your tender/charger is reading... that battery has EXPIRED. Yes, it could've been the result of a failing stator or R/R (regulator/rectifier), but if you're getting the clickety-click and the flashety-flash, it's PROBABLY due to weak output from the battery... has happened to me many times, despite what the charger reads. How old is said battery?

...and the following statement isn't meant to attack you, nor hurt your feelings, but it has to be said; Tend To Your Machine. A weak battery, Using the Emergency Kill, and Corroded Electrical Connections are symptoms of a neglected and UNmaintained machine. Not much is more dangerous than that. Next rainy day, get in there and spend some quality time getting those bits cleaned up.

Additionally, CocaCola or baking soda & water will eat away that corrosion once the connectors are removed. Just ensure you clean them up afterward, and grease them. :thumb:

Let us know how you make out. Others with similar issues will surely read this thread one day, and posted problems don't help anyone without posted solutions :deal:
 

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Yeah, the kill switch is only for traffic lights hilarity, i.e. hitting your mates one just as the lights change, and you zoom off :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, cheers guys. I was always told to use that and it isn't an issue and it's good practice to use it in case of an incident and it's your go to OFF switch.

Fairs points about the switch being an exposed item though and I'll get it off and get it cleaned up later (3pm here).

A new battery is on the way as this one will be 2 years now and has had some extensive time off in the winter.

In regards to my statement about the "corrosion" it really isn't corrosion as such, just a very tiny bit of white dust. It's extremely clean and tidy in there. The main was on the spare fuses and the "worst offender" was the main fuse but it really really had hardly anything on it, I just thought I would mention it.

Really appreciate your comments :)

I'll get it all ***** and span running on a new battery and get some more readings later.
 

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3pm? Blimey it's the same time here in sunny Wiltshire :D


I spent the first 20 years of my life in Queensbury though, and was in Skipton last year, that place never changes.
 

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Heeza Y Zasch
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glad you weren't offended, and hope I didnt come across as a "know-it-all"... just hoping to help out and give assistance by sharing my own experiences :cheers:

looking forward to hearing about some problem free riding! :cycle:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
glad you weren't offended, and hope I didnt come across as a "know-it-all"... just hoping to help out and give assistance by sharing my own experiences :cheers:

looking forward to hearing about some problem free riding! :cycle:
Thanks. I have been through all connectors and they are all spot on.
Still unsure what was clicking though, It "felt" like it was the connector block with the thicker yellow wires.

Quite a few of us, as there isn't a UK Fireblade forum that's anything like as good this.
True, I was a paid member here the past year or so.

This happened me twice on two different bikes, was the battery each time
Actually good to know! Cheers!


___


I'll have the new battery in about 12 hours, so I'll bob it on and retest.
So if I have good V with the bike running at say 5k, it just meant the battery expired?

in addendum, the current battery when given a trickle charge had almost 14V (trickle disconnected too), I wired up a 12V PC fan to it and the volts just started to drop, around 0.1V per 2 seconds.
I hooked up the battery to a 12V compressor and it wouldn't run at all. And the measurements showed the V drop to 0.02V when it was hooked up. So it is absolutely goosed.

I'll post back later.

Ta!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One thing that does stick in my mind is why it wouldn't run on it's own after being jumped and the donor battery removed after 30 seconds or so. So my bike was still running perfect on the donor when the jump leads were pulled off, it immediately died.
Is that normal? Should it have cut out whilst running (and running with 5k revs) with a dead batt?
 

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Because your battery isn't taking a charge, it's fubar, the bike runs from battery, it's like a UPS, gene/r/r charges the battery, battery runs bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cool. New one will drop today. I'll check the output to it once running and also go through those stator checks etc.
Cheers chaps
 

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If the output when running is 14v+, then all is good, if it's same as when switched off, then do the other checks.
 

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Still unsure what was clicking though, It "felt" like it was the connector block with the thicker yellow wires.
Starter relay

One thing that does stick in my mind is why it wouldn't run on it's own after being jumped and the donor battery removed after 30 seconds or so. So my bike was still running perfect on the donor when the jump leads were pulled off, it immediately died.
Is that normal? Should it have cut out whilst running (and running with 5k revs) with a dead batt?
I'm not an expert, but if the battery is shorted out internally due to excess sulfating and therefore not accepting a charge that would explain why your charger did not show an amp draw, leading you to believe it was fully charged as you previously mentioned. It may also be why the engine will not continue to run after removing the cables. As I said, I'm not an expert, but if you simply have a weak battery it should continue running; however, with a shorted out battery it will not. I'm not sure exactly why, I have my theory, I've just had it happen. Let us know what happened with the new battery.
 
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