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well my 1st problem is I am in the process of changing my brakes,Ihave done this a number of times successfully but for some reason I cant get them to compress this time.. the only difference between this time and before is I am changing all the fluid this time. I blead them for a hr atleast and get all the air out and still no compression not even a spongie feeling so im thinking maby my brake fluid is bad (its about 4 yrs old and I have been keeping it in my truck) or is there some trick? this is my first honda..I dunno this these brakes are driving me insane! does the brake fluid resivior cap need to be on tight?

My second problem is I ordered a jardine dual outlet pipe for it (its not here yet) took my stock exhaust off and noticed the butterfly valve attached to two cables in the midpipe do I trasfer this to the aftermarket midpipe and if so how I have never seen an exhaust like this in my life what is the purpose of such a device in the exhaust???
 

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I have the Jardine dual outlet exhaust, you replace that pipe with the one supplied from Jardine. as for the brakes:idunno:
sounds like air in the line since air can compress and the brake fluid doesn't???? IDK!!!
 

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so the pads don't move in the calipers at all when you squeeze the brake lever? maybe the pistons are stuck.

those cables attach to the exhaust valve. your slip on is gonna eliminate the valve. the purpose of the valve is to build back pressure at low rpm to increase power in the low rev range. when you unhook the cables follow them up to the other end where they attach to a servo motor and take them off completely. make sure you either leave the servo in the position its in or if you have to turn it to get them off turn it back to where it was so you won't get an FI error light on your dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so the jardine pipe will have that valve on it so that all i have to do is connect the cables or?
 

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so the jardine pipe will have that valve on it so that all i have to do is connect the cables or?

nope, aftermarket pipes eliminate that valve. you'll get another midpipe with the jardine can. take off the stock can and pipe/valve and install the jardine stuff. but the valve is operated by a servo motor. if you don't want a FI error light lit up on your dash all the time just disconnect the cable from the servo making sure you leave the motor in the same spot once your done. if the light comes on turn the servo motor by hand until it goes out.
 

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o i c thats what I was going to do just take the cables off but I kinda already moved that servo thingie with my hand, not really sure where it was... all the way clockwise..counter..or middle? so in the valve open position then? and does this mean I am going to loose low rpm power with a aftermarket exhaust? i want more power...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hell yea u saved the day I can finally get some rest this has been bugging me all night ill let ya know how things go with the brakes tomorrow thanks man!
 

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o i c thats what I was going to do just take the cables off but I kinda already moved that servo thingie with my hand, not really sure where it was... all the way clockwise..counter..or middle? so in the valve open position then? and does this mean I am going to loose low rpm power with a aftermarket exhaust? i want more power...

when you turn the bike on you'll either have a red light on the dash or not. if you do the servo is in the wrong position. so you're either gonna have to turn it or just live with the light on, I would turn it to get the light to go off.

I think the results vary for most people. on my old bike I had the valve safety wired in the full open position all the time and I didn't notice a difference in power anywhere in the rpm range. I bet even if you do notice any loss in power it'll be so low in the range the only time you'll ever be down there is leaving a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
or i could just cut the stock muffler off replace it with the jardine keeping the valve so not to lose the low rpm power would that work? how much power did you gain off yours anything noticable? what about throttle response?
 

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or i could just cut the stock muffler off replace it with the jardine keeping the valve so not to lose the low rpm power would that work? how much power did you gain off yours anything noticable? what about throttle response?

not sure if you can just cut and replace, you'd have to do some welding. if I was you I would just use all the jardine parts.

well that was on my old 929. I didn't notice any difference anywhere (power, throttle response, smoothness) when I wired the valve open. I only did it because the gears inside the servo motor striped. but each bike is different and so is the rider.

my current 929 has a full sato system. right when I put that on I noticed an increase in power everywhere. and once I got it custom mapped I got even more power everywhere and it became buttery smooth (and I thought it was pretty smooth before).
 

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As far as the breaks go, make sure and bleed the system at the Master Cylinder first, then bleed at the calipers. If you have air in the Master Cylinder you won't be able to build pressure regardless of what you do at the calipers....

Do you have a Power Commander? Mine ran like like crap after I installed my Jardine. I had it custom mapped - made a world of difference...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so I got the exhaust hooked up I just enden up disconnecting the valve cables. Runs with a lot more mid-range/topend power. Its got about a half sec studder from a standstill to wide open but then it rips. I think a power commander should solve that. But I ended up having to use a hand pressure bleeder..never thought about the master cylinder, wheres that, is it right behind the lever?
 

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Again, just my two cents..

Remove the caliper pistons one at a time and clean them so they are spotless, clean the seals in the caliper also or replace them with new ones. However do NOT spray brake cleaner on the seals unless your brake cleaner is safe for rubber seals. Blow compressed air through the brake lines and calipers ( do not do this with all the pistons in place or they may pop out onto the ground and damage them!) Reassemble the seals, pistons into the caliper. Make sure you have all good seals with no tears or nicks in them to possibly cause leaks. There are also two little seals on each caliper about 1/2 diameter with a small hole in the center of them. Those you really should replace with new ones.

Reassemble everything to the bike then bleed the brakes.

I use a handheld "MityVac" pump which works very well. Also remove your bleeder screws and clean the threads, apply teflon sealing tape to the threads, being careful not to obstruct the hole in the bleeder screw. These things are a p.i.t.a. If you don't put new sealing tape on them you probably won't get all the air out of the system. ZX11pilot has a good point, bleed the master cylinder first. You can buy a bleeder banjo bolt from an aftermarket supply company if you want. I myself would like to know ( for personal use ) how to bleed a master cylinder? I did not do this one my bike, but somehow i got all the air out anyhow.

Best wishes :)

Just a seperate nothing to do with, note: I don't see why folks who do mainly street riding go out and spend big bucks on larger petal rotors or aftermarket calipers for the 900rr. I'd almost be sure this applies to the 929/954/and 1000RR as well. I installed stainless steel brake lines and the brakes are so firm i have to throw my weight backwards to keep the bike from flipping over itself. I have stock brakes w/ EBC HH sintered pads and the ss lines, that's all.
 

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First of all throw that old fluid in the trash. Brake fluid is sensitive to sunlight and oxygen. Once you break the seal on a new bottle it slowly starts to become oxygenated. (absorb oxygen) This is one of the reasons that you flush your brakes on a regular basis.

To bleed your master cylinder. pull the brake lever the crack open the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. (the one at the top of the line, right behind the brake lever) make sure you get the bolt retightened before all the preasure is relieved of it will suck in more air. Release the lever and repeat untill no more air comes out. Then move down to the bleeder valves on the calipers an do it all again.

Also sometimes it helps to "tap" on the lines to dislodge any air bubbles.

good luck
 

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The 1KRR has a bleed valve on the Master Cylinder. Just look around the pivot point on the brake lever and you should see it.

Just a tip - use a lenth of 3/16 clear tubing and hook one end to the bleed valve and submerge the other end in a clear jar with clean brake fluid. This way you can see the air bubbles/brake fluid when it's released from the system.
 
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