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That's funny. I read kleiner-chinese and thought you might get dicked over. After all, how many chinese people have a German name in China?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That's funny. I read kleiner-chinese and thought you might get dicked over. After all, how many chinese people have a German name in China?
Overall, I had a very positive experience with them. There was a chip in one of my regulator fins, but it works fine. No issues. For $25 I ain't complaining.
 

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When you said you were getting 14.5 volts what RPM was that at???? whats the maximum voltage it will put out. Your supposed to test it a 5000 rpm with the high beams on.....at least thats what the manual for 96-97 said and get anywhere from 12.5 on the low side to 14.5 or 15 on the high side. If your getting 14.5 at idle Id check to make sure its not going over 15 volts at 5000 RPM. Wouldnt want to over charge your battery or fry your wiring harness trying to save 75 bucks, please let us know about that.

Anybody tried one that does alot of high RPM riding to see how it holds up to that????
 

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Back at this again, I plan to put in my super duper Chinese double heat sink RR in my 900RR next week to see the performance values.
Has anyone ever used that white electronic conductive grease between the frame plate and the RR, you should use it for a proper heat transfer just as they do for ICs on a heat sink in a circuit board.
Thinking about this for awhile, I also considered making a bigger plate out of 2mm or similar aluminum to sandwich between the frame mount and the RR.
This would equate to a bigger finned heat sink that's closer to the RR and spread heat away from the location of the RR body faster.
It may even end up to be a specific shaped size to fit into the location being its at an angle on the frame, some ideas are cooking on this one.
Some card and a scissors will give me a template design or two I can ponder over.
 

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Cool I just bought one off ebay for my 92 CBR400RR. Almost $200 at the dealership...... I paid 17.98 total with shipping to the states.:eyebrows: Good to hear they work good.:thumb:
 

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Bad news....Today, my chinese voltage regulator crapped out. I tested my stator continuity to ground....got zero on all 3 yellow wires. Checked ohms between each yellow wire and got 0-.1 each. I'm pretty sure that leaves just my voltage regulator. Battery will not charge. Damit!
 

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Bad news....Today, my chinese voltage regulator crapped out. I tested my stator continuity to ground....got zero on all 3 yellow wires. Checked ohms between each yellow wire and got 0-.1 each. I'm pretty sure that leaves just my voltage regulator. Battery will not charge. Damit!
Shame, thanks for the update, can't beat real world testing.

My original R/R lasted something like 35k miles, I replaced it with a Honda upgraded one (with fins) that was £60 new - it's done about 10,000 miles and is working OK :pray:
 

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so about how many miles did you get out of it total?? i need a new RR and just found this post. now i'm not sure which one to get haha
 

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I got one for a cbr 600 but its the same one used on the NC30. The regulator, part # SH633-12, is used on a lot of Honda's.
 

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The problem with these things is their small size and the heat factor, looking for a bigger bodied one with lots of fins is the only way to go to address this issue.
For $25.00 you did not do too badly but it would have been nice to have it last longer.
 

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Hi guys. I needed to replace my regulator/rectifier, and I found a seller in Shanghai China on Ebay that is selling them for $15 plus $10 for shipping. I figured that for $25 I can't go wrong. LOL. I got the part today, and it looks just like the OEM part. Does anyone here have experience with these chinese regulators? Thanks for any input.
I have 2 kawasaki ER5, both was needing a new battery every year, I did not think there was a problem until one day i decided to measure the charge current, I found that itv was at around 7 amps, I replaced the battery with a glass plate type and replaced the regulator, ( a cheap one from ebay) all was well for a while, I had moved the regulator from under the rear mud guard to under the seat with an added heatsink. However this failed and over charged the battery which had swelled up like a balloon. but was still working, I assumed that being under the seat, it had overheated and failed. I replaced the regulator again, and all was fine accept the charge current was low so riding in the dark or with the lights on could not provide enough output. come regulator number 3 this failed to make the starting gate and was duff on arrival. now the price of the so called cheap regulators ave trebled in price and are no better. I have now built my own which is working fine, I have given up buying them and the OEM version is worth more than the bike.
 

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iirc people sometimes fit Yam MOS-FET ones - much better design. TBH I had an original Honda 929 one that only failed in 2018, so 18 years old, and the bike was a daily commuter as well as inter-continental tourer and track day abuser. I replaced it with a 2nd hand CBR600 one, the plug was slightly different but not difficult to modify. In fairness it failed when I was in France and the ambient air temp was 40c all day long, blistering hot to ride in, but I hate to think what temp the RR got to!! Sadly it took the stator out so had to replace that too!
 
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