have got rossi rep fittered new fan switch cos fan not comeing on fittered new one still the same no fan if i bypass with the wire to the fan switch body to the rad an it comes on sound but if i let it heat up no fan have i no mix anti freeze propperly or bleed it just loss any advise please
fan switch
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The coolant is getting over 102C but the fan isn't coming on?
yes mate put new fan switch on an no joy but put some anti freeze in it felt the rad its getting hot right across should i get the propper anti freeze an drain the hole syetem ???? yes aso temp reads 102 never let it go any hotter just bypass switch with wire an fan comes on an cools it down just dont no y any joy any one ???
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How much above 102C is it going?
I saw 121C on my 929 once but up around 106-ish isn't unusual when parked in traffic in the height of summer.
The fan should normally come on around the 102 mark (check the specs for your particular bike though) but it might just be lazy. I'd let it get up to 105 and if it still isn't coming on then I'd say there's a problem somewhere.
nice one mate wat temp should i let it go to before i should worry about head gasket look it up on honda book they sed 93 to 102 they sed it should come in but never let it go past 102 got secon had rad an put it on fill it up run it an never came in so tested feuse by bypassing comes on sound u think the anti freeze ive used is no good cos some one sed ye need to mix 50 50 but i put readt mix in not shure mate ???
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93?
93 is probably about where you'd expect it to operate while moving during summer. 85-95 is roughly "normal" for water-cooled engines depending on some variables like ambient temp and where they're taking the temperature reading from.
What bike are we dealing with?
Anti-freeze isn't going to make any difference to what temp the fan should com in.
If it's not going over 102C then I don't think you can assume the fan switch isn't working. It may be designed to come in at 103 or perhaps even higher.
its not on my blade its on my cbr600 rossirep 03 nice bike use this for my messing round an that but since i change the rad mate had problem put its like anythink u change one think an it could be another but no leaks all the pipes r getti ng the same temp just not sure wat ye think mate help
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Why did you change the radiator originally?
Before you changed it, the fan was coming in at 102?
I had pull the entire cooling system out of my ZX6R a few weeks ago looking for a cooling problem. My brother in law was borrowing the bike to do a run in the country so I needed to fix it that day. I couldn't find any sign of any problems anywhere so I cut a disc of rubber and put it into the filler neck to increase the pressure that the relief valve blows and that seems to have fixed it so I'm going to replace the filler cap - which happens to be the same as our cars run
Yours though isn't overheating if it's only getting to 102 so I'm not sure what it is you're trying to fix.
wat happend was was doind endos on it on the track an bike went too far crack front faring an rad went on its side pritty hard bike sartted back up no probs but had cracked rad so put new rad an faring on now it wot come in but ye bypass it ok bike dose no overheat it take normal time to warm up but did not want to chance it past 102 cos not sure wot temp it can take mate any idea mate ???
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You probably wouldn't want to go any higher than 110 or so I reckon.
As I said, in '06 my 929 saw 121 before I shut it down and it spat all the coolant out. I filled it up after it cooled down and it's been fine ever since.
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It won't go to 120 with the cap off as the coolant would've all turned to steam before that.
If you really want to get it over 102 (I can't really see why though) try taping up the front of the radiator so it can't radiate any heat out of the coolant.
As I said, I wouldn't deliberately take it over about 110 since all you seem to be trying to determine is when the fan is being triggered?
If the fan switch is not triggering by about 106 I'd be investigating the switch and the fan to see if they're actually getting power. Since it's only been a problem since you swapped the radiator (I think that's what you're saying?) you probably haven't connected something.
The simplest fix is to wire a toggle switch into the circuit and turn the fan on manually when needed - basically whenever the temp shows 100+.
Good to have a sparky on here since I'm electically challenged myself
well i will give it a go ive defo put it on properly because if i but a wire to the body of the rad to the top of the switch connector the fan comes on so it works on a direct live to the fan an there is an earth screwed to the body of the rad so the switch works as the earth wen gets hot it becomes earth hence the fan comes on i think the rad is no filling up so the switch is not getting hot enough or the water pump is no working propperly wat ye think ??
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If you haven't had it above 102C then it's probably not getting hot enough to trigger the fan is my guess.
Have you removed the switch to make sure it isn't covered in corrosion perhaps? That might cause it to read a lower temp to what the temp sender is indicating.
The radiator should be full regardless of whether the pump is working. The cooling system is sealed and must be completely full of coolant. Any air pockets will cause problems.
Does the F4i cooling system need to be bled of air after filling?
You need to ensure there is no air trapped at the highest points in the system.
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Depends on the design of the system and I don't have a manual for the F4i.
If the radiator cap is the highest part of the system then this would be the correct way to do it.
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I really don't know what that thread's about
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And you
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