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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'd like to get $3000. If my asking price is too high/low, feedback would be much appreciated.

Pictures by lateonthebrakes - Photobucket

2001 Honda RC51 SP-1 32,000 miles with clean Virginia title.

·Sato Ti/Carbon Fiber Low Mounts slip-on exhaust
·Power Commander III USB, Tuned by Dan Kyle for Sato Low Mounts
·Dan Kyle Intake Flapper and PAIR Block-off Plates
·Bridgestone BT-003 120/70-190/55
·Gold CRG full length levers
·Galfer Steel Braided Front/Rear/Clutch lines
·Galfer rear “wave” rotor.
·EBC sintered copper front and rear brake pads
·Intuitive Frame Sliders
·BMC Race Air Filters
·SP-2 Aluminum Upper Fairing Stay
·Clear Double Bubble Windscreen
·HRC Quick-Turn Throttle
·Ohlins 1.0kg/mm fork springs with new fork seals as of 05/2009
·Woodcraft CFM Rearsets with GP shift (VFR800 Shift Pedal)
·Vortex 15T front sprocket with 43T rear
·HRC brake and clutch reservoir socks
·Black Stomp-Grip traction pads

Negative Aspects
·Rear wheel has a curb mark on the lip, but has run 15,000 miles for me with no leaks.
·The OEM fairings are pretty beat up and held together with epoxy and duct tape in places, although it handles 150mph on the straights at VIR with no issues.
·The left radiator bracket broke from vibration and is held together with JB weld.
·The mid-pipes are slightly bent and the cans have a little rash, no exhaust leaks and they still sound/perform great.
·Left exhaust rubs the swing arm from time to time and is gouging the aluminum slightly.
·The bike has a little over 32,000 miles.
·The steel clutch plates are slightly warped and the bike is hard to launch smoothly if you try to leave the line at high rpm. It is not noticeable at normal RPM leaving lights and the pits.
·The rear-most chain guard threads were stripped and the chain guard has been removed.

The bike could definitely benefit from some race fairings and a proper suspension. I have almost every OEM part I have taken off of it and have spares of most parts. The bike will include the crate full of parts and service manual. If someone really wanted to take it on the street it could be done with mirrors, a new clutch sensor switch, headlights, and some wiring in the tail section. The previous owner cut the wiring for the front turn signals and rear signals/brakes/running lights. I installed bullet connectors for a hotbodies undertail and served me for several years. It is a great bike and still runs amazingly strong. My only reasons for getting rid of the bike is that I have come to a point where I am ready to invest a lot of money into my track bike for bodywork, nice suspension, and other bits that I would rather spend on my ’05 CBR1000RR, which I’m itching to take to the track.
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