Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
A long blink equals 10, short blink equals a 1.
A single long blink with no short blink equals fault code 10, which is a faulty baro sensor, or related connector or wiring issue.
The engine will run, but at a fixed baro setting (altitude) of 760mm Hg.
Check your baro sensor or connector which is mounted on the snorkle near the front of the upper cowl.

On a related note, I'm a firm believer in dielectric grease for electrical connectors.
It's great for weather-proofing connectors and to prevent corrosion.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
also since we're on the subject, would that code be causing the bike to backfire when i let off the throttle, like when im slowing down? if im downshifting to slow down, it will do it in each gear i shift into.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
aha I see. so I pulled the fairings off, all the connections looked good. I forgot to check the voltage going to the sensor though. i guess i will have to do that... the baro sensor is on the left side right in front of the radiator right? it has a 2 wire plug and a couple vacuum lines going to it... i couldnt tell in the manual from the picture whether it was on the left or right side, but i didnt see anything on the right side.
 
aha I see. so I pulled the fairings off, all the connections looked good. I forgot to check the voltage going to the sensor though. i guess i will have to do that... the baro sensor is on the left side right in front of the radiator right? it has a 2 wire plug and a couple vacuum lines going to it... i couldnt tell in the manual from the picture whether it was on the left or right side, but i didnt see anything on the right side.
No. The baro sensor is located on the snorkel, near the front. Refer to diagram.
The item you mention is probably the vacuum solenoid controlling the flapper valve. It's mounted at the upper front of the left radiator.
Your bike may be backfiring due to a lean condition.
Maybe possibly due to the baro sensor being unable to determine exact barometric pressure. Or due to air/fuel ratio being towards the lean side.
 
My SP2 recently developed the same long blink Fi. Initially I thought it may be down to a poor connection as I also had a Dobeck TFi fitted (by the way, does anybody have experience with this unit?)

However, I remembered that with the much talked about flapper valve mod I had disconnected the vacuum hose to the valve and plugged it while waiting for the flapper valve cover to arrive from Dan Kyle Racing when I planned to remove the whole enchilada and clean out the snorkel.

Question is? Could this, would this confuse the BARO sensor?
According to most forums it seemmed like a worthwile mod?
 
I'd like to think that the baro sensor, short for barometric, is a funky name for an air-pressure gauge that feeds into the ECU to calculate fuel vs air-density. When Ram-Air effect kicks in air pressure goes higher than the one atmosphere and more fuel is needed per volume of air as there is more oxygen in it. This also works for going from really cold dry days at the beach to hot muggy days in the mountains.
The only thing that would mess up the effectiveness of the reading would be a leak past the sensor where compressed air through the snorkel would vent out and never reach the manifold at the same pressure.
 
The Baro sensor measures ambient air pressure at the snorkel inlet.
The MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor measures air pressure inside the airbox near the intake manifolds.
The difference between the two tells the ECU how to offset the Air/Fuel ratio for altitude, ram-air effect, dirty air filter, etc.
However, it can only calculate the air/fuel ratio within the bounds of it's known digital map.
If any sensor fails, the system will default to a preset (limp home) value.
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top