[pauvil]

OK, so after finding those seals looking like they did, here is the other thing. When I took it apart I have one spring plate under the collar. The manual for 95-99 shows 2, one on top and one on bottom of the collar. The 93-94 shows 1 only on the bottom of the collar but has an oil lock piece which the 95 does not show nor do I have one. So It would seem I'm somewhere in between years here. Do I buy another spring plate and put it the way the diagram shows. Or buy an oil lock piece? Or should I just put it back the way its been? Anyone please? It's really nothing more than a washer and not very thick at that. Any thoughts. ? The left one is 93-94 and the right is 95-99. number 4 in the right picture is what I'm looking at which I only have one under the collar, it shows 2. Number 12 in the left picture is what I don't have but shows only 1 spring plate which is number 5 (Same part different number). I know confusing. I have no number 12 in the left picture and one number 4 in the right under the collar. What should I do. Put it back the way it was is what I'm thinking. Please help as I'm not a suspension guy.


1995 CBR 900RR
Thanks,
Paul

 

[IanDoohan]

The forks only really differ when in 95 they added the compression damping down at the bottom of the fork by the caliper mount. The oil lock piece for 93-94 doesn't accommodate for the adjuster. Make sure you have the compression adjuster.

My 99 forks do have the 2 spacer seats, but if you only have one its not a huge deal. Any type of washers you may have kicking around of similar thickness and diameter will work. Is it huge that you only have 1? No. Annoying? Absolutely. It's really only there for the spacer to sit on. Sitting on the retainer is ok, as you see it doing just that for 93-94.

Up to you if you want to to shelve the forks until you order them.

 

[pauvil]

Thanks Ian, I kinda figured, and yes it is annoying, Looking at the condition of the seals and oil I'd say they were never apart so I'm guessing it's been that way from the factory. I'm glad you understood the post. After I did it I realized I could have stated it a little easier. I'm going to put it back the way it was as all the references I find don't show any dimension or length change from 93-99 anyway other than that oil lock piece which looks like it sits on top of the oil seal. I believe this does't change the assembly overall length anyway. How much that spring plate changes performance? Probably not anything that I would notice as I don't race nor am I a pro rider so I'm gonna go with the way it was. I do have the compression damping adjuster down bottom by the way.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[IanDoohan]

lol right on Paul, that minimal dimension would never be noticed. The oil lock piece on your model should still be at the bottom of the outer fork leg. It gets jammed in there pretty good (held by the O-ring). Getting them out without damage is nearly impossible.

The 93-94 oil lock is a different animal completely. It usually comes out still attached to the bottom of the damping cartridge. No oring holding it in, just the bottom Allen bolt.

She's gonna be a great ride when you're done with her! Or him lol

 

[pauvil]

The oil lock piece is in there all right. The manual tells you to use a wooden dowel to knock the o-ring out. I left it in . When I look down there it almost looks like a lock ring is in there but it's hard to tell and the book doesn't show one. Also, thanks for the input on the bushings. the one on the bottom looks brand new it's the top one on the outside that the copper is showing. As you said though it's the inside that would wear right? I will replace it but I don't want to put a ton of money in this thing, they will nickel and dime you to death. I would have to strip the whole thing down for a "real restoration" and then what? I probably wouldn't want to ride it after getting it perfect. I don't want to take the motor down if I don't need to. I want to ride and have some fun then take it from there.

Thanks Again Ian,

Paul

 

[pauvil]

Well give me a capitol D for dumb!!! I drained my oil pan after the shock rip down and guess what. Low and behold!! The other spring plate was laying at the bottom. Boy do I feel better and stupid at the same time!!! I was going to take a picture to show you guys how much metal was in the fork oil and to my surprise it was laying there!!! How I managed that one without noticing is beyond me but I'm in great relief!! Oh and just an FYI, I'm going to try to use my cam bearing puller/installer to try to get the oil lock piece out. I won't go crazy because I don't want to damage anything but it does move around with a piece of thin wood like the manual suggests. I just want to get everything nice and clean. I'll see how it goes.

Paul

 

[IanDoohan]

Well give me a capitol D for dumb!!! I drained my oil pan after the shock rip down and guess what. Low and behold!! The other spring plate was laying at the bottom. Boy do I feel better and stupid at the same time!!! I was going to take a picture to show you guys how much metal was in the fork oil and to my surprise it was laying there!!! How I managed that one without noticing is beyond me but I'm in great relief!! Oh and just an FYI, I'm going to try to use my cam bearing puller/installer to try to get the oil lock piece out. I won't go crazy because I don't want to damage anything but it does move around with a piece of thin wood like the manual suggests. I just want to get everything nice and clean. I'll see how it goes.

Paul

You're gonna need to change the thread title to Fork Rebuild Problem "SOLVED" :rotfl:

Good luck with the oil lock, I am curious though, what/how exactly does your manual suggest to remove it:idunno:

 

[pauvil]

It says what I did, when removing fork, take the cap off the top and drain it in a pan. I was still holding it over the pan when I took the spring out as there was quite a bit of residual oil still left, that;s when I lost it. I will close the thread.


Paul

 

[panigale12!]

The oil lock piece is in there all right. The manual tells you to use a wooden dowel to knock the o-ring out. I left it in . When I look down there it almost looks like a lock ring is in there but it's hard to tell and the book doesn't show one. Also, thanks for the input on the bushings. the one on the bottom looks brand new it's the top one on the outside that the copper is showing. As you said though it's the inside that would wear right? I will replace it but I don't want to put a ton of money in this thing, they will nickel and dime you to death. I would have to strip the whole thing down for a "real restoration" and then what? I probably wouldn't want to ride it after getting it perfect. I don't want to take the motor down if I don't need to. I want to ride and have some fun then take it from there.

Thanks Again Ian,

Paul

Okay, to all frustrated Honda owners who can't get the oil lock piece out...Here is how to do it with no damage to the fork: make sure you spray brake cleaner on the stuck oil lock and let it dry. Get a vacuum tube that is made of plastic and hopefully you find one that fits over the oil lock tightly. Twist down over the oil lock as far as you can make sure that the tube will stay on the oil lock. Pour a little lubricate down the tube to lubricate the o-ring.. In a twisting fashion, gently and slowly bring up the oil lock to the top. Don't rush and the oil lock will slowly and reluctantly come up and out. Worked perfectly.