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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2003 cbr 954rr

I tried to start My bike after it sat for about a year, I had a battery tender on it. When I went start the bike everything went as normal beside for the fuel pump not priming. The engine turns over.
When you turn the key to on the relay under the seat click and then clicks again after about 2-3 seconds. I switched all 3 of the relays on the tail with the one under the seat and they all did the same click 2- 3 second pause and click again.

I checked the diode behind the ignition the pink wire is reading 9. Volts at the solder. I also check it at the ECU also reads 9v going in.

I cleaned all the connectors.

I swapped out the fuel pump for a new one but when I tested the old one out of the tank it works.

I put a new battery in today.
Still nothing.

I checked the fuses the main 30 amp under the seat. All the fuses in the fuse box under the seat.

I tested the 3 wires going to the fuel pump while connected (brown,brown with black stripe and green).

The center brown wire is reading 12 volts but nothing to the other brown wire.

I tried connecting power to the pump through the connector coming out of the fuel tank but don't hear the pump prime... I did it with the old fuel pump before I swapped it out and had the same result... could it possibly be something with the fuel pump assembly?

Any ideas. Thanks in advance for any input.
 

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I have a 2003 cbr 954rr

I tried to start My bike after it sat for about a year, I had a battery tender on it. When I went start the bike everything went as normal beside for the fuel pump not priming. The engine turns over.
When you turn the key to on the relay under the seat click and then clicks again after about 2-3 seconds. I switched all 3 of the relays on the tail with the one under the seat and they all did the same click 2- 3 second pause and click again.

I checked the diode behind the ignition the pink wire is reading 9. Volts at the solder. I also check it at the ECU also reads 9v going in.

I cleaned all the connectors.

I swapped out the fuel pump for a new one but when I tested the old one out of the tank it works.

I put a new battery in today.
Still nothing.

I checked the fuses the main 30 amp under the seat. All the fuses in the fuse box under the seat.

I tested the 3 wires going to the fuel pump while connected (brown,brown with black stripe and green).

The center brown wire is reading 12 volts but nothing to the other brown wire.

I tried connecting power to the pump through the connector coming out of the fuel tank but don't hear the pump prime... I did it with the old fuel pump before I swapped it out and had the same result... could it possibly be something with the fuel pump assembly?

Any ideas. Thanks in advance for any input.
Hello there,

Have you looked at what the fuel looks like? the pump could have seized and the fuel could have gone bad. if you have to pull the pump out and connect it directly to 12v battery and test to see if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced the old pump with a new pump. Then I tested the old pump just out of curiosity to see if it worked and it did. I was fairly sure it was bad because I jumped power from the battery to the harness that comes from the fuel tank and could not get the pump to prime... I tried the same thing with the new pump that I installed and still can not get it to prime.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Already checked the fuses they are all good, even changed them with the spares just to make sure.
 

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its a lot of work, but you may have to pull the fuel pump out to test it directly. eliminate the issue and move on to something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I already installed a new fuel pump.. I tested the old one after I removed it and it turns on when hooked directly to the battery.
 

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If the fuel pump works when connected directly to a battery, but not when you apply power to the fuel tanking wiring then it points to the fault being in the fuel tank wiring. First have a very close look at the connector on the fuel tank loom for signs of corrosion or internally broken wires. If that look good then drag the pump assembly out and measure continuity of the two pump wires, from the external connector all the way to the pump connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. That's the direction I was going . I was running out of ideas so I ordered the entire fuel pump assembly hopefully that solves it.
 

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Same damn problem here other than when I put the new pump in (not the whole assembly) I put a new filter and fixed the low fuel light thermistor, it primed and fired right up. I shut it off and went out an hour later and no prime! I’ve checked everything even jumped battery to pump and nothing. I’ve contacted the pump seller and hopefully it was a bad pump. Funny thing is the factory pump now works with battery power to it!
 

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Follow the wiring all the way from the beginning (the source of power) all the way to the end and then back through the ground with a multimeter. There has to be a loose connection or bad wire in there somewhere. If you have problems with the multimeter (I’m not great with them honestly) use a wire with 2 alligator clips or pins to jump over areas of wiring you suspect to be the culprit to isolate the area where the issue is and then at worst you could buy a pin tool and just rewire that specific area. When I parked my bike 5 years ago my cooling fan wasnt kicking on so I just hard wired it to the battery through a fuse and switch so i could ride. I’m on the last leg of my complete rebuild now so I am going to be going through the same thing you are but on a different system. Just do it step by step through the harness until you figure out where the current stops flowing.
 

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One area to check is the spot where the pump wires pass through the assembly base. I've read an account or two of these failing too.
that is my next move. There is resistance from the pump plug to the harness plug on the power wire. Thanks for the reply!
 

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Follow the wiring all the way from the beginning (the source of power) all the way to the end and then back through the ground with a multimeter. There has to be a loose connection or bad wire in there somewhere. If you have problems with the multimeter (I’️m not great with them honestly) use a wire with 2 alligator clips or pins to jump over areas of wiring you suspect to be the culprit to isolate the area where the issue is and then at worst you could buy a pin tool and just rewire that specific area. When I parked my bike 5 years ago my cooling fan wasnt kicking on so I just hard wired it to the battery through a fuse and switch so i could ride. I’️m on the last leg of my complete rebuild now so I am going to be going through the same thing you are but on a different system. Just do it step by step through the harness until you figure out where the current stops flowing.
Thanks, yeah I have isolated it to the place on the assembly where the wires go from outside to inside. What a pain. It ran when I parked it last year! Thanks for your reply!
 

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One area to check is the spot where the pump wires pass through the assembly base. I've read an account or two of these failing too.
so I played dentist with the dremel and found on the inside of the housing at the spot the wires go through, there is a brass block that is directly above the green dots on the outside, the inside power wire is just south of it on what looked like a spade. Ohmed 0.0 on the block and all over the place on the spade. I cut the power wire from the spade and soldered it to the brass block. Solid 0.0 ohms at the pump plug now! I filled the void with some permatech fuel tank repair that is ethanol resistant. I will rebuild the assembly tomorrow and test it. Fingers crossed it was the gremlin! I will post in a couple days when the epoxy is cured enough to put in the tank.
 
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